Jonathan Kay
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Everything posted by Jonathan Kay
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Drain on the battery at rest differs considerably between Sevens. Jonathan (No master switch, Odyssey PC680, CTEK charger connected whenever the Seven is at home)
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I haven't heard that tried before. The usual approach is to remove twisting stresses by enlarging the holes in or repositioning the mounting brackets. There's some scepticism about whether spring washers in general prevent loosening. Nyloc nuts would be an alternative. Jonathan
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1995 Crossflow live axle rear offset required
Jonathan Kay replied to Temple Cloud's topic in TechTalk
Previous discussions of offset with live axles. Jonathan -
As above. Jonathan
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1995 Crossflow live axle rear offset required
Jonathan Kay replied to Temple Cloud's topic in TechTalk
From the 1996 Assembly Guide, Appendix F: Jonathan
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Sounds as if the gauge and wiring are OK. And probably the sensor too. But I've just changed one that worked fine as it warmed up but only intermittently when hot. Jonathan
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Thanks Jonathan
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Had you already checked the mounting and the load from the hoses for excess mechanical stresses? Jonathan
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I knew that something was wrong! Thanks for the correction. Brake OFF, wheels chocked. Jonathan
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I don't know which sensors your 7 has, and we might need to come to that. Most temperature sensors work by varying resistance to earth. So you can do a quick test by locating the sensor that drives the gauge and connecting the signal wire directly to a good earth such as the engine block. What does the gauge do? If you'd like a wiring diagram please send me a Private Message with your email address. Jonathan PS: There's a lot on Duratec cooling in the archives...
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"I'm interested as the speedo against Google maps suggests the speedo is about 10% out." That's the instantaneous speed display on a smart 'phone rather than some distance over time calculation? Jonathan
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Yes. Jack up one rear wheel and leave the other on the ground with the brakes OFF and the wheel chocked. (Corrected, see below.) Put the gearbox in neutral. Mark both the prop shaft and the rear wheel to make it easier to count turns. Turn the lifted wheel 10 times (other options are available) and count the turns of the prop shaft. Divide that number by ten because you've turned the wheel ten times (or whatever) and then by two because you've only been turning one wheel. Or something like that. Jonathan
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Well done. Thanks for adding the answer. Jonathan
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"I think the clicking is just in the starter button itself." What sort of button is that? Another photo, please. Jonathan
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"Well I eventually removed all of them, I couldn't see any issues with them to be honest." Have you identified which relay does what? Jonathan
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"When you flick the ignition aero switch you can hear the usual whirring for a couple of seconds which I think is the fuel pump, also the speedo and rev needles jump slightly (all normal for the car), you then press the starter and nothing happens at all! " Are you still getting a click when you press the starter switch? Jonathan
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Note which relay kills what function when removed. And when the click goes away. Inspect pins and underside of relay and relay base for damage or having been cooked. Swap with another of the same type to test. Jonathan PS: I can send you the likely diagram once you've identified a few...
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And the relays? Jonathan
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Click but no drop in volts... so the starter solenoid isn't throwing. Check the starter relay. If you're not sure which it is (and there are ≥ 3 layouts on Sigmas) can you add a photo. (Being outside Halfords could be about to become relevant... ) Jonathan
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Any recent work done on it? Has it been drowned recently? That's 12.5 V across the battery at rest? What does it drop to as you try to start? Is that the ignition warning light? Does it come on as usual when you turn the key? Reset inertia switch. Cycle immobiliser. Inspect and wiggle the relevant cables including battery and starter and earths including the engine block. Check ECU fuse. Jonathan
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Well done. Thanks for the update. ... IF you have a single indicator warning light in the dash AND want to change to LED indicator lamps OR want to change to an LED indicator warning light in the dash THEN it's possible to do this with a couple of diodes and and a new earth. Jonathan
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Previous discussion of the micro relays in a 160. Refers to a part number of 110316. Jonathan
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Here's RIPCA's description of the 2845D: https://www.ripca.com/2845d-wissel-micro-relais-12v-15-25a-5-polig If no-one comes up with an equivalent part number it should be possible to match on that specification. Jonathan
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"This from the caravan Club: (dont know why the font colour changes ....)" I think that's because from From the table above, you will be able to cross reference... onwards it's a hyperlink. The browser changes the colour to show this. Jonathan
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"the Graham Sykes paper is in the Low Flying archive - March '93" Thankyou "The Ital Axle Debate", includes: Jonathan
