Jonathan Kay

Thanks for the photos. There's a discussion here with some hints. Jonathan

"2. At the front of the car, around the radiator. Two female tab connectors. One Black wire and one Black/Brown. Cannot find where to connect to. I've got wires to the horn and radiator fan. What else is there?" ... "The wires at the front are not used." ... That's very helpful. It looks as if they aren't in the wiring diagram at the back of the Assembly Guide. But they are in the TA 2013 diagram: Jonathan

I have the 1988 Assembly Guide for anyone who would like a copy. Jonathan

I can send you the wiring diagram, but not until Thursday evening. Please could you tell me your email address in a Private Message. Jonathan

Thanks for the update. While you're waiting for the new switch how about making the old switch irrelevant by putting the output and input connectors on the same terminal? Jonathan

Thanks Jonathan

Thanks Jonathan

Previous discussions: /forum/techtalk/ctek-battery-sense /forum/techtalk/batterybrain Jonathan PS: "I seem to get very strange results when using the site search engine". You're not alone.

Yes, it's often necessary to cut them down. As I discovered after removing the finish on the top face of the frame. Jonathan

I've had this for some time. Andrew knows. Jonathan PS: Ajax.

Mike: I can't send Private Messages. Have you already got my email address? Jonathan

Thanks, James. Did you get this error message? An AJAX HTTP error occurred. HTTP Result Code: 500 Debugging information follows. Path: /system/ajax StatusText: error ResponseText: Jonathan

Yes, please. There's a couple in early February about "Wiring diagrams". Please remove them. Or could you increase my allowance? Jonathan

Sorry, Adrian. There's a system bug which means that I can't delete messages. Please check your email. Jonathan

The current consultation: "Proposed changes to make MOTs fit for the future". Jonathan

Agree with the fuse layout above, but I don't have an image. Jonathan PS: Thanks to someone else's curation I have a lot of CSR documentation: please let me know if you'd like copies.

I have the layout. I'll see if I've got a better image when I get back from tonight's Dress Rehearsal. Jonathan

Thanks Jonathan

Have any factory-engined Sevens had knock detection? Thanks Jonathan

"He has also found that the Lambda sensor has failed along with the alternator, and the battery isn't in great shape either, so quite an expensive week. I knew the battery was starting to struggle so that wasn't a huge surprise. It is possible that the Lambda sensor failure was exacerbated by running the car with a misfire (I had no choice but to drive it home following the failure but my subsequent 'testing' when trying to find the problem may not have helped). The alternator is a part failure, it only charges at high revs and doesn't charge at low revs (<2000). Luke tells me that this is often as a result of vibration from the Duratec causing some of the windings to break." Even without dedicated test kit it's possible to get a quick look at the condition of the battery and the operation of the charging system. I usually recommend 3,000 rpm for the latter but that might have missed this one. Had you noticed any change in when the warning light came on? Thanks Jonathan

Thanks for adding the answer. "I did a bit more investigation myself in late November and using a NOID light diagnosed the problem to be no signal to no.1 coil pack." Just the sort of occasionally needed kit that's so valuable in the Equipment Register... Jonathan

"I tried that and my turn signals, windscreen wipers and headlamps stopped working. I'm hoping that someone has been through this and has an elegant solution." Most headlamps aren't powered by feeds which depend on the ignition being ON. If it weren't for that I'd offer the suggestion that when the ignition module was added some ignition switched feeds were moved downstream of the unit, possibly to make the wiring easier for some reason. Do you have a multimeter? Jonathan

There's no particular reason for thinking that for an engine with a given compression ratio use of a fuel with a higher octane rating will increase the power output. (But a higher compression ratio which requires higher rated fuel to avoid premature detonation will increase power output. And some engines adjust themselves if they detect knocking.) But the archives contain several anecdotal reports of detectable effects. TTBOMK none of them involved blind testing or objective measurement. Previous discussions: https://duckduckgo.com/?q=site:caterhamlotus7.club+octane+power Jonathan

If I understand correctly: 1 Find a blind grommet with the correct external size. 2 Cut a cross at the centre that will just let the nut through. This makes four flaps. 3 Punch a hole through the centre that's a bit smaller than the cable. 4 Fit cable through grommet. 5 If you aren't happy with the closure of the flaps on the cable then join their edges with rubber cement, avoiding getting any on the cable. Jonathan

Thanks for the update. Jonathan