Jonathan Kay

Well done. And thanks for adding the answer. Jonathan

Could it be an indicator buzzer? When does it happen... does the ignition need to be ON and does it then do it all of the time? Jonathan

Crossed posts. : - ) Jonathan

Thanks for adding the video. I think that's a traditional all-analogue set-up. So any flicking to full scale deflection is abnormal. And testing the sensor and gauge as above should work fine. (And I'd get on with identifying a replacement sender and supplier in parallel... Redline?) Jonathan

I know that modern Sevens flick their instrument needles, but does that happen at Ignition ON or when the engine turns over? Is it the same for all of the instruments, including the oil pressure gauge, and has it always done it? Does it have a separate sensor for an oil pressure warning light? ... With traditional senders and gauges you can test the sender and the gauge separately. Disconnect the sender from the loom. 1 To test the sender set a multimeter to resistance and if there are two terminals on the sender measure between them and if there's one measure between that and earth. Measure at rest and as the engine turns over for a bit. 2 To test the gauge: turn the ignition ON. Touch the signal wire which connects to the sender to earth and watch the gauge as you do this. Please will someone correct this if it doesn't work with modern senders and gauges. Jonathan

"I have checked other posts (site:lotus7.club duratec oil pressure) and couldn't see anything the same... " Good search strategy. But I now use "site:caterhamlotus7.club term1 term2... ". The old sitename does work but I don't know if using the new sitename finds more. Jonathan

Yes. As I found out soon after the Seven failed its first MoT inspection... Jonathan

! Please can I have a sketch of yours, with a few filled in. I'll then check the secondary literature! Jonathan PS: There are two layouts for Sigmas in diagrams issued to customers, one in some factory drawings, and one that's only in a BlatChat thread!

There are three ways of posting images: two by uploading them to this site, and one by linking to them on another site eg Dropbox. They're all described in the Forum User Guide: https://www.lotus7.club/forum/chitchat/forum-user-guide Most Members now use the shortcut upload, as in the previous post: https://www.lotus7.club/comment/2252151#comment-2252151 That's quick and comparatively easy, but it does limit the resolution of the image. Not usually a problem for photos but can be for screen dumps, images of documents etc. The other two methods don't have that limitation. Please let me know if you need any help or want to practise. Jonathan

The last set that I put in my 1800 K were NGK BCPR7ES. Previous discussions: BCPR7ES PFR6N-11 I couldn't find anything on BKR6EIX-11. It would be great if someone could summarise all this in a Guide... Jonathan

I think that the outer piece of white plastic with the bars is a threaded collar. Jonathan PS: Photo showing fine. : - )

Using the silicone hose from the 620. Jonathan

"Less than two years on the replacement radiator - well fitted by Premier Power as per previous photos, changed to blue coolant (regular flushing) and Williams spotted a leak yesterday. What can we do? I remember reading recently someone suggesting changing to more flexible hoses could reduce vibration transfer. Does anyone have experience of this? Any other ideas welcome! or are we doomed to a new radiator every other year!" Thanks for adding that... as I've said a few times I don't think that the reported leaks are caused by the use of inappropriate coolant. I think that most of the suggested stress-relieving interventions are in this thread. The hose falls into that category: IIRC the reported problem was linear loading onto the stub. And there was a suggested explanation based on reuse of existing components from a previous design. I'll see if I can find it. Jonathan Edited: Crossed with ChrisC's.

Just tried to send you a Private Message, but it failed. Please try and send me one. Thanks Jonathan

Would you like the probable fuse layout? Jonathan

Thankyou Jonathan

Thanks for sorting that out and adding the details: it will help someone someday. Do Variohm supply them directly? Jonathan

Mine has play, and I don't like it. I got my hands on Sean's new RAPFIX last week. Lovely. Jonathan

Which way do you hit the spline? Thanks Jonathan

Resources: Please let me know if you'd like the appropriate wiring diagram. Do you have a multimeter? There's a current thread with details of how to get to the motor etc. Diagnosis: The whirring continues even with the switch OFF, but that's not abnormal as there is feed to the motor through the PARK feed until it self-parks. The switch is controlling the speed of the whirring appropriately. I'm trying to work out what you can check on the electrical side before attacking the mechanical. I don't think that there is much. You could detach all connections from the switch and make the circuit by hand and see if that makes any difference. You could pull the intermittent timer (if there is one), have a look at the terminals and the base for signs of cooking, and try a new one. Any other suggestions on the electrics, anyone? Jonathan

Where's the sensor? What oil is in there? And what's the water temperature? Thanks Jonathan

We once identified part numbers and suitable LED replacements... /forum/techtalk/instrument-lights ... but I don't know which type would fit yours. I suggest pulling the existing lamp and looking for a part number or posting a photo here. Jonathan

/comment/2388078#comment-2388078 Jonathan

The version in the Assembly Guide is linked from #2 above. Jonathan

/comment/2260269#comment-2260269 Jonathan