Jonathan Kay

You're probably past the obvious ideas already, but are you sure the thermostat is working, and could you have an airlock? Jonathan

ACF-50 was the magic stuff to prevent corrosion in switches: never used it myself. Jonathan Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 15 Feb 2012 16:34:43

BC thread on reversing light switches Jonathan

Great diagnosis by BC, and I'm impressed with the speed you get things fixed! There's a suggestion somewhere in the archive of a magic fluid that's good for the inside of switches. Jonathan

I was just going to say "ferrule" but it's not as exotic as "debonding sleeve". Jonathan

Fit a cigar lighter socket in front of the passenger. Car unused: connect to charger or inspection light as appropriate. Car in use: connect satnav, mobile 'phone etc. Jonathan

Quoting Johnty Lyons: During winter driving in these conditions I block off the bottom haff of rad to allow more water to circulate Is that just blocking the airflow through the bottom half with an external baffle, or something cleverer? Thanks Jonathan

And the answer was... ? Jonathan

As Tim says: why take the risk of frying the electronics? Jonathan

Yes: disconnect the battery before doing any electrical work. It isn't essential but it's always safer for you and the equipment. Of course experts often don't. Do check that you understand your immobiliser/ alarms etc and how you will reset them after reconnecting the battery. Jonathan

Brilliant! W appears to represent 1998 (or 2028) 1 appears to represent 2001 (or 2031) Jonathan

If you're playing with the electrics think about fitting a cigar lighter socket in front of the passenger. That can be used for devices such as 'phones and satnavs and for a battery charger. Lots of threads on this, including this one. Jonathan

And have you found the FAQs? Jonathan

Welcome Hmmm, electrics. 1 Buy a multimeter. If you haven't got one already I suggest you buy one with an audible connectivity function. 2 Write down what is working and what isn't. 3 Test the fuses for the bits that aren't working. 4 Report back Circuit diagrams and assembly guides are all online somewhere... tell us if you can't find them. Start here. Jonathan

Thank you very much for all the advice. Please keep it coming. Jonathan PS: I keep looking at interlocking tiles, but old carpet seems more cost-effective for my needs.

I have a concrete garage floor that has never been sealed and has fully dried. I'm going to seal it all, and paint the area the 7 lives on. (I am going to wait till it's warmer.) I'll then put old carpet under the 7. Please could people recommend sealants and paints, and the best way of patching and filling defects before sealing? Thanks Jonathan

That was quick: I'm still at work! Jonathan

(I've offered some) Can anyone help us identify the bolt that holds the frame to the engine. I think I've found one that came with mine (!) and it is 19mm across faces of the head, and just under 12mm od on the thread. M12? But the Caterham parts site says you need 2 off M14 bolts. http://www.caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=2280 Are all the bolts the same? Or is it 2 of each size? Thanks Jonathan Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 30 Jan 2012 20:53:07

I have no idea how small an order they would fill, but I would start with "RS" or Maplin. Or go and chat up someone in an appropriate workshop. Good luck Jonathan Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 29 Jan 2012 21:47:42

Quoting Paul Deslandes: Assuming that this alternator conforms to the Brise Type 1 nomenclature, IG (Ignition)should be connected to ignition switched +12V, which won't have been fed to original Valeo alternator This is required to provide field excitation. Paul Does that mean that for that type of alternator you have to get the feed to the IG terminal right before the test of looking at the voltage at the lamp terminal is valid? Jonathan

Quoting ECR: There are 2 faston terminals on the rear of the alternator and 0ne large ring terminal on top One of the faston terminals is marked “IG” Bulb in ignition light has been checked and is working With both of the faston terminals removed from the rear of the alternator but with the ring terminal still connected. Ignition on engine not running IG 0V at the terminal on the alternator Other 0V at the terminal on the alternator With both of the faston terminals removed from the rear of the alternator but with the ring terminal still connected. Ignition on engine running IG 0V at the terminal on the alternator Other 0V at the terminal on the alternator There's something wrong with the alternator. See Paul's and ECR's posts above. Quoting ECR: With both of the faston terminals removed from the rear of the alternator but with the ring terminal still connected. Existing wiring to ignition light connected at dashboard end Ignition on engine not running At the alternator end of the wire feeding the IG terminal 12V At the alternator end of the wire feeding the Other terminal 12V With both of the faston terminals removed from the rear of the alternator but with the ring terminal connected. Brown/Yellow wire to ignition light DISconnected at dashboard end Ignition on engine not running At the alternator end of the wire feeding the IG terminal 12V At the alternator end of the wire feeding the Other terminal 0V With both of the faston terminals removed from the rear of the alternator but with the ring terminal connected. Existing wiring to ignition light connected Ignition on engine running At the alternator end of the wire feeding the IG terminal 12V At the alternator end of the wire feeding the Other terminal 12V I think that's because: Quoting Mr Locust: The bulb is fed by +12V from the ign switched circuit. Once charging, the bulb terminal of the alternator is raised to +12v so the bulb extinguishes. Quoting CharlesElliott: The ignition warning light works from a feed on the alternator (it sinks to the alternator - so when the alternator is charging, current doesn't flow and the light goes off). Jonathan Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 27 Jan 2012 12:33:17

Have you checked the bulb is OK, and the contacts in the bulbholder are OK? Probably worth doing that before you move onto more complicated possibilities. Then stick a meter on the alternator terminal that is (should be) connected to the ignition warning light. What's the voltage from there to earth not running and running? Jonathan

Is there anybody out there? Jonathan

Previous thread on PDF version of "Low Flying" Jonathan

I had a batch of slightly taller top hat spacers made. Let me know if anyone wants some. Jonathan