Jonathan Kay

Lots in the archives, including this. Jonathan

Sorry for the delay. It's on, but there are two possible suppliers, and I'm still working on the details of the delivery into the UK. Jonathan

Lots on this in the archives... and most people seem happy with the results. Jonathan

Quoting Tyrone: Well, it looks like have all the smoke in the wires again, but I have a question. I used a live feed from the ignition to the lights switch as this is shown on the wiring diagram from Caterham. I think this was not as the car was originally, as I could leave the lights on without the ignition on. All traces of that were gone! However, I reckon this will cause bother with the switch at some point due to the current the lights draw. This will happen more quickly if I ever forget and switch off the engine with the lights on. Could I feed the light switch direct from the cut-off switch through a fuse in an external fusebox (I bought this to replace in line fuse holders for the accessory socket and the intercom)? Is that OK? If so, what fuse should I use (Discussion with my team ranges from 20A up to 30A) and what wire should I use. I need wire big enough to cope with 30A continuous and 45A momentary. The same feed to the light switch powers the flash switch and you could flash the lights at the same time as having dipped beam on plus of course the rear lights. So a max of 45A. Doesn't this depend on the presence or absence of a relay for the high-current lights? See posts above. Jonathan

Does it look anything like this?http://www.hyjacks.com/ckvalve.jpg From this page Jonathan Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 30 Sep 2012 18:19:16

2012 winners Jonathan

(Don't know anything about electronic speedometers.) Sounds as if you've done a lot of cleaning up. Hope it works. It would be interesting to swop the old OP sensor back in after the problem has gone away to see if that was the cause. Jonathan

But not by me. Who had a chat with my wife? Jonathan

Unfortunately the kickstand is now eroding the surface Jonathan

Thanks for all the suggestions. Just got round to taking it all apart for a look. Came to the conclusion the poor connection was down to the existing plug from the charger. Cleaned and tweaked. We'll see. Jonathan

Do the flashers and brake lights work correctly when this occurs? What type of speedometer? Which way do oil pressure sensors work? (Variable resistance to earth?) Have you disconnected, cleaned and reconnected the earth to the speedometer? (See SM25Ts suggestion.) Jonathan

There's one at the end of the current Assembly Guide. I have some older ones if you need them. Jonathan

I had the same thought about renovation. There are several companies that are strongly recommended in the archives. Jonathan

While preparing some bikes for Saturday's ride for the Historic Churches Trust I had to fit crank shorteners on a tandem while it was still hanging on the wall. So that's one reversal of direction because it's a LH crank, and then another because I'm working on the wrong side of the bike... and it's a steel bolt into an alloy crank... I think I'll just check again. Jonathan

There are four Dzus fasteners, each of which should be tight. There won't be any play between the nose cone and the rest of the car when they're done up. Jonathan

Do you know that the sensor, gauge and wiring are OK? Jonathan

19 Pages of discussion here Jonathan

Interesting point about the sound. We're certainly used to revvy sounds from fast cars. But for use on public roads cars should be as quiet as possible because it affects other people. And besides, after all the reduction in mass from electric drive you could add an enormous active sound system, and make your car sound like anything you want, as demonstrated by Lotus! Sounding like a Merlin might be popular on BC. Jonathan

Agreed, but how about a 7 with a small petrol engine with electric drive? Jonathan Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 6 Sep 2012 09:53:26

If it hadn't been developed to its current state we'd see there's a lot wrong. Mechanical coupling of the thrust on the piston through a couple of bearings, conversion to circular motion, disconnection because the engine can't run from stationary, speed (or torque) matching because the dynamic range of the engine isn't as big as that of the vehicle, turning the drive through a right angle, matching the speed of the inner and outer wheel... it's a triumph of craft over logic. Let's start again with electric drive and just avoid most of those problems. You can still get the energy storage density of petrol, but you can also optimise the ic engine for performance at one or a few speeds. The Ampera/ Volt is going to test a lot of this in the ordinary car market, but how would ACBC use it in the 7 niche? Jonathan Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 6 Sep 2012 09:23:29

:-) ... do you manage to discover lots of special occasions that deserve a special meal... ? Jonathan

Translation courtesy of Google Jonathan

Quoting Kevsta: As I own a petrol trubo car that returns excellent MPG I would suggest it (and great power with potential). That is the BMW Mini Cooper S engine. Stop/start technology, very low emissions etc. I return 38-42MPG in my car on typical driving and that's lugging a 1250KG car. Plus it has a healthy 187+BHP (I think 230 out of the JCW version), overboost on the turbo and plenty of Minis made!The Prince engine, Wikipedia article The Prince engine in motorsport Jonathan

Quoting wingnutLP: The upshot is that I now need to raise my seat.How much higher? Jonathan

Day out in the Lakes? Jonathan