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Jonathan Kay

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Everything posted by Jonathan Kay

  1. Jonathan Kay
    If the Seven's own battery is going to be part of the diagnostic equipment then I'd recommend checking its condition very early in the plan. Jonathan
  2. Jonathan Kay
    Good advice above. 1 There are multiple causes. 2 Check all of the relevant wiring and connections. Battery, starter, earths including engine earths. Inspect, wiggle, disconnect, clean, reconnect. 3 Measure the battery voltage at rest. minimum during cranking, and at 3,000 rpm if you can get it started. 4 What type of battery? And if it is the sort that can be topped up check the fluid levels. Jonathan
  3. Jonathan Kay
    Please could you add a photo of the kit in the approximate position of interest. Jonathan PS: We have Members who are skilled at 3D printing...
  4. Jonathan Kay
    If the helmet makes a big difference I'd be interested in how high your head is. Which leads to the question about a lowered floor, as above. Jonathan
  5. Jonathan Kay
    Brilliant, Andrew: please can we all watch? : - ) How about generalising it a bit so that it will also do resistance-resistance mapping. There's a lot of Members who'd like to recalibrate their display of fuel level... Jonathan
  6. Jonathan Kay
    You can use the resistance range on the meter to test the sender. Either while it's in the Seven or with jugs of very hot and cold (± iced) water. Jonathan
  7. Jonathan Kay
    Thanks I suggest checking the quality of two electrical contacts at the sender: the connector onto the wire and the connector onto the terminal of the sender. Have a good look, clean the surfaces and check that there isn't any play. Then when it next shows low give it all a good wiggle and see if the gauge then immediately shows something sensible. Beyond that: have you got a multimeter? Jonathan
  8. Jonathan Kay
    "Showing a very low reading after starting off working as expected." Is that "Showing a very low reading after starting off and then working as expected."? Or "Working as expected when starting off and then showing a very low reading."? ... If the former is the thermostat faulty and staying open? Jonathan
  9. Jonathan Kay
    Down for me and for IsItDownRightNow. Jonathan
  10. Jonathan Kay
    I don't know if the Spiyda Gauge Wizard can convert to specified voltage output. Jonathan
  11. Jonathan Kay
    "Does anyone know the actual resistance range of the Caterham sender... " John Vine once mapped this. Jonathan
  12. Jonathan Kay
    All of the following is from the factory diagrams for injected VX cars. The oil pressure warning light is connected to the switch by a Black/Yellow wire. (Presumably the circuit is completed through the switch body to earth.) The connections at the lamp are Black/Yellow and Green. This circuit does not run through the multiway connector from the engine loom. The sender to the oil pressure gauge is connected by a White/Brown wire to the multiway connector that joins the engine loom and the main loom. (Presumably the circuit is completed through the sender body to earth.) And another White/Brown wire runs from the connector to the gauge. Jonathan
  13. Jonathan Kay
    "What I haven't found is a diagram of the engine loom for injected Vauxhalls... " Found it! Jonathan
  14. Jonathan Kay
    Well done. Jonathan
  15. Jonathan Kay
    9 is the "Oil pressure sender". Jonathan
  16. Jonathan Kay
    Do you have the wiring diagrams for both carbs and injection? I can send you the versions that I have to see if they are any clearer. Yes, it should have both an oil pressure gauge and a warning light: What colour is the signal wire that's connected to the sender? What I haven't found is a diagram of the engine loom for injected Vauxhalls... Jonathan
  17. Jonathan Kay
    You can check that switch by measuring the voltage between any ignition-switched circuit (such as the feed to the starter switch) and earth as you fiddle with the key in the switch. But if you're already sure that the ignition light doesn't go out or flicker when the problem occurs then that is against that being the problem. ... There's a lot of different causes of bad starting and clicking in the archives. Including the relay in the MFRU. https://duckduckgo.com/?q=site:caterhamlotus7.club+click+k I suggest trying to narrow this down by using the voltage range on the meter and measuring the voltage across the battery: • At rest • Minimum during cranking • At 3,000 rpm, I'd also check all of the relevant wires and connections: battery, starter, engine earths. Jonathan
  18. Jonathan Kay
    I'd start by investigating whether there's an intermittently bad connection in the ignition switch. Jonathan
  19. Jonathan Kay
    Have you got a multimeter and would you like the wiring diagrams? Jonathan
  20. Jonathan Kay
    Previous discussions: /forum/techtalk/crossflow-starter-motor /forum/techtalk/what-starter-motor-am-i-xflow-5-speed which includes a list of the possible combinations. Jonathan
  21. Jonathan Kay
    Thanks Jonathan
  22. Jonathan Kay
    Well done. Was the speed display ever erratic? Thanks Jonathan
  23. Jonathan Kay
    Thanks Jonathan
  24. Jonathan Kay
    "I have had the Lucas LRS 100 starter motor tested (along with the same model from my next 7 project) and both pronounced to be in fine health. I re-checked and recleaned all the connections. Tried both starter motors to no real success." "Then I experimented with reducing the ignition advance by rotating the dizzy. It was too advanced and I had a bit more success. It would successfuly crank about 1 time in 5, better than nothing." Did he test it with the same solenoid that you're using? What happened on the other occasions when tested in the Seven... any noise, any turning, and what was the effect on the battery voltage? Thanks Jonathan
  25. Jonathan Kay
    Well done. And thanks for adding the answer. That small voltage might have been the result of something connecting through an unusual route at very low current. Jonathan
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