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Jonathan Kay

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Everything posted by Jonathan Kay

  1. No problem. (RatRace recommend using petrol with a higher octane rating in my rebuilt but normal compression 1800 K series engine. I forgot to ask why.) Jonathan
  2. There's a big open area the other side of Horse Guards Road that doesn't get used much... ;-) Jonathan
  3. We haven't got to 25 but I'll buy the next batch from China. If there is anyone who wants one and hasn't let me know please do so by Monday night (29 April 2013). Jonathan
  4. Quoting Jonathan Kay: Advice please: In general do you ever get the potential difference but can't get enough current because of poor connections on low-current circuits the way you often do on the high-current starter circuit?Thanks: people clearly think this can happen. Jason's "bypass with a good connection" method should identify this. I'd use that on both the earth and feed (both upstream and downstream of the switch) sides before changing anything else. Jonathan
  5. I've wasted a lot of time in an MoT inspection and in my garage trying to make the foglight work when the headlamps weren't on and dipped. But I thought that seeing >10V across the unit excluded that... ? Advice please: In general do you ever get the potential difference but can't get enough current because of poor connections on low-current circuits the way you often do on the high-current starter circuit? Jonathan Jonathan Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 27 Apr 2013 18:11:52
  6. Quoting Krismuss: I was nearby today too, round at the IoD! I also worked on 10/11 Carlton House Terrace a few years ago. I was at the Royal College of Pathologists giving a sort of farewell talk, that's number 2. Then we ended up in the bar of the ICA, as I often did in the '70s. Jonathan
  7. *arrowup* *arrowup*Ah, got it Jonathan
  8. That is strange and you've done the right tests. I'd play with the connection of a known to be working bulb in the bulbholder yet again. Has it ever blown fuses? Jonathan Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 27 Apr 2013 17:15:37
  9. Quoting BigCol: ... new sender looked far too difficult to fit... Just to be sure where the fault lies: * Can you disconnect the cable as close as possible to the sender and open and close the circuit and watch the gauge at the same time? * Or measure the resistance from the sender terminal to earth with the engine running and not running? (Can someone who knows more please advise if all electric senders work by varying the resistance to earth?) Jonathan
  10. I hoped this bit might: Quoting Jonathan Kay: From the Assembly GuideConnect the red lead from the starter motor to the battery. Also connect the black lead on the main vehicle loom to the starter motor on the same terminal. NOTE If a battery master switch is fitted, there will be two red leads; one goes to the battery, the other to the starter. The brown lead is already connected. Connect the brown lead from the alternator to the starter. Connect the brown/red wire (covered with black insulation) from the chassis loom to the starter solenoid. Jonathan Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 27 Apr 2013 11:18:00
  11. Does this thread and the one to which it refers help? Jonathan Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 27 Apr 2013 10:54:15
  12. Snip at £250,000,000. I happened to be walking past this today. I think it's number 18 that's for sale, but there weren't any signs up. Jonathan
  13. *arrowup* *arrowup*TTIWWP ;-) Jonathan Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 25 Apr 2013 23:38:52
  14. Usual advice: Look at lots. Don't fall in love with one. Take a friend: you've got that covered. Jonathan
  15. Have you fiddled with anything recently? Switch on and off a few times. Any improvement? Disconnect and reconnect all connections to the main light switch. Any improvement? Do you have a multimeter? Jonathan
  16. For most 7s and most other engines in most styles of use I don't think not being pressurised is an advantage. What's the evidence other than the manufacturer's claims for reduced corrosion? There are many people here who have looked at the inside of many more engines than me: is corrosion in waterways a common problem in properly maintained engines? Jonathan
  17. My conclusion was: Composition: My guess is propylene glycol + ethylene glycol + some anticorrosion additives + some wetting agent. Not much water. Usefulness as a coolant in 7: No proven advantage. What's needed: A back to back test. Jonathan
  18. This is a good thread Jonathan
  19. Lots in the archives, including this thread. Jonathan Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 18 Apr 2013 18:38:30
  20. Thanks. I don't think that adds anything to what we already knew or guessed about the composition. Have you got a URL for the full version, please? Jonathan
  21. You know more about them than I do! I was thinking of it as a diagnostic rather than a therapeutic intervention... Jonathan
  22. Could you borrow one of those additional bolt-on cans for the exhaust and see if that solved it before replacing the silencer? Jonathan
  23. Does anyone know what the readings should be using a multimeter instead of the gauge? Jonathan
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