When I bought mine a few years ago they were the cheapest if you included the heater hoses and clamps. (In the end I reused the original clamps.)
Silicone hoses seem to be a component where buyers are happy with all the suppliers. Lots on this in the archives.
Jonathan
I also wrote to the company and asked about the differences and how they could use their website to help select the correct one. Just got an answer: they're at Silverstone this weekend and will look at it on Monday.
Jonathan
I use an Earlex HG 1600, nominal 1600W, 350 or 520°C. It has enough shapes of nozzle and a decent case, which may be the most important factors once they have enough oomph. I wouldn't pay any more.
Jonathan
You've checked connections but only replaced one cable. A cables that looks OK but has high resistance could still be the cause, as suggested above.
What's the voltage at the starter terminal before and during starting?
Jonathan
I'm just working through the last few of this batch.
Costs for this batch were:
£174 for 30 = £5.80
No import duty
Envelope £0.24
Postage £5.20 whether it's for one or two
Total £11.24 for one
Total £17.04 for two
There are a few requests on the reserve list. I'm happy to buy another batch of 30 once there are nearly that many needed. So let me know how many you need by posting in this thread.
NB: There wasn't any import duty this time, but there may be next time.
Jonathan
PS: Please put up photos showing where and how you've mounted them.
Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 24 Jul 2013 21:17:08
Wasn't there some discussion about the main diagram/ loom being the same for both, but the engine subloom being different, and one of those diagrams being hard to find?
Jonathan
I have the clutch and brake pedals in the pivots nearest to me. I'm happy with the positions. The throttle pedal is about 5cm too far away from where I'd like it. I can't bend the cable end any more relative to the pedal end because it will obscure the pivot bolt.
So I think I'd like a pad bolted to the ring of the current pedal to bring my foot up, as Gary describes. Preferably adjustable for spacing off the ring.
Does anyone know of an off-the shelf thing that will do that? Or is there a better solution?
Thanks
Jonathan
How about:
Remake the connections
Test it asap (not too difficult at the moment)
Work out in advance how to jury-rig the fan on manually if needed
Then if it fails again replace the switch
Jonathan
Amended to say "switch"
Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 20 Jul 2013 11:21:54
End cap on coupler was too tight. Backing it off means that I can now clip onto the nipple, and release by tilting and pulling. I've set it so that it's tight on as feels sensible.
Balls in the nipples lift nicely when probed.
So I've pumped the grease in until it starts coming out of the end of the coupler. If I then lift the ball I get a backflow of clean grease. But I don't see any grease appearing elsewhere around the assembly... what next?
Thanks
Jonathan
Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 18 Jul 2013 08:46:20
Thanks everybody: that's very helpful.
I don't get any locking on at all: just end to end contact. Does that mean there's something wrong with the end of the grease gun, whether the nipple is blocked or not?
Jonathan
Just tried to do this for the first time. Ancient lever-action grease gun. Grease just squirts out where the gun meets the nipple. Can't find what to do to sort this out in the archives. Beginners' guide, please.
Thanks
Jonathan
They are in my garage and today I've been emailing early applicants who haven't got in touch with me yet.
There wasn't any import duty this time!
Jonathan