Jonathan Kay
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Everything posted by Jonathan Kay
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I don't know the details of your fuse box. Advice should be along in a minute. Send me a BlatMail if you want a picture of the location and which fuse is which. I think that fuse only supplies the brake lights. In the meantime disconnect the feed to your brake switch, quickly jump 12V onto that terminal from the battery and see if the brake lights then work. If they still don't it isn't a fault in the proper feed including the fuse. Have you or anyone else been near the light units recently? One common problem is bad earths. Can anyone advise whether the brake lights share an earth? Jonathan Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 20 Apr 2014 10:12:37
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Checking gearbox oil level: Lots on this in the archives and excellent guidance from Alcester Racing Sevens. There's a filler plug in the L side of the gearbox. You can get to it from underneath or cut a hole in the tunnel to get easier access. Most people use a cut down hex key if they don't have that hole. It's also possible to get access from above, either by removing the top plate or fitting one with an access hole. Warning: Some gearboxes are overfilled. Have a think about this before undoing the filler plug. Jonathan Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 20 Apr 2014 10:09:56
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Wikipedia on the Crossflow Jonathan
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There's a link to the flow chart that defines the emissions test for each model in this thread. Jonathan
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Not really. This is an area where faults can be a bit synergistic. As above: how old is the battery, and what has been done to the car recently? Please measure battery voltage at rest, while cranking and at idle and let us know. Have a look at all the relevant feeds and earths. You can just look, wiggle and tighten or take them apart and clean the contacts. Jonathan
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Occupational lead poisoning in current times is quite interesting. We used to periodically test the blood lead concentration of police who handle firearms and people who make stained glass windows. There's a range of concentrations at which they are "advised" to stay away from the exposure until it's back in an acceptable range. We had to chelate lead from a child a couple of years ago, which isn't too common. Jonathan
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Data sheet for ROCOL Anti-Seize Compound J166 There's a plaintive blog from ROCOL which includes: It has come to our attention that there is slight confusion when searching for anti-seize products. Many people are asking for a specific brand instead of the technical description of the product they need and this often results in the wrong product being supplied and ultimately dissatisfaction when the application fails. This is a result of brands’ synonimity with certain applications which becomes misleading for customers trying to find the correct product for the job.You can feel them wanting to say "Copaslip" but just holding it back at the last moment. Jonathan
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Here's what I'd put in a K series: Quoting Jonathan Kay: I find the labelling on coolant very confusing. Caterham have Comma XStream XSM5L for £17.10 + p&p Amazon have XSM5L for £16.98 inc p&p Halfords have Comma XStream G30 (which is probably XSM5L) for £24.99 ... all 5L premixed. I'd get a big bottle from either Caterham or Amazon. Usual safety warning: this stuff is very poisonous. Keep it away from children. Discussed here and here. My own answer to the questions I posed are "Factory instructions" and "Possibly, but not needed in addition to what's in the recommended commercial products". Jonathan Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 19 Apr 2014 09:13:50
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Copaslip datasheet: GENERAL DESCRIPTION: COPASLIP® is an anti-seize compound specially formulated to protect against seizure even in extreme conditions of temperature and pressure. It also protects against rust, oxidation and other corrosion. COPASLIP® consists of micro-sized particles of copper in a semi-synthetic base. To these basic anti-seize ingredients are added highly effective oxidation and corrosion inhibitors. Jonathan
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Have you found the 7FAQs? Jonathan
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Thin layer on the threads. If it gets on the shank don't worry. Wipe the outside afterwards if it spills out. NB It isn't good for brake friction surfaces. It's a good idea to dry assemble/ run bolts in and out of threaded components before you do the assembly. If/ when you can't do them up easily have a look in the archives or ask before resorting to brute force: your tools can easily exert enough force to damage threads. Jonathan
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Quoting RedCat7: Newer cars don't even need a sub-loom. Spade connectors can be found at the back right bottom corner if the chassis. At least that was the case on my 2011 SV.Good point. Callum: If you can find any wires in or near the boot that look as if they might be suitable please post the wire colours and we can tell you what they are. (Someone found some recently that were for power and instrument lighting rather than brake lights.) Jonathan
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Stu: That URL isn't right. Unless the LED likes getting emails. :-) Jonathan
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(Crossed post) There's lots in the archives on high level brake lights, including the lights people like and how to run the wiring. It isn't hard to wire but you might want to consider the Caterham subloom that does most of the work for you. Jonathan Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 18 Apr 2014 15:57:51
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Quoting revilla: I'm now intrigued as to why my speeds don't work out. Something must be reading or measuring wrongly; the tyres are new and a known size, the speedo checks out against GPS and Pi hasn't changed very much since the time of ancient GreeceWas the car ever registered in Indiana? I'm trying to think of other possible explanations... what is your maximum speed? Jonathan Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 18 Apr 2014 08:48:44
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Works well, doesn't it? But are you now wondering if Brasso would have been even better? ;-) Jonathan
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28" Panasonic CRT television. Excellent condition. Pace twin Freeview tuner with hard drive recording. Free on token donation to NtL. In South Oxfordshire and need to be collected. Jonathan
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Thanks Jonathan
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Andrew: Is there a convenient way of jumping a battery live feed into the ECU for diagnostic purposes? CharlesElliot: Can you add anything on diagnosing a fault with the TPS or its wiring? Thanks Jonathan
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Your rights under the Sale of Goods Act are not limited by the vendor's warranty. If you want to take it further * Take photographs and see if if you can compare it with others * Read the relevant bit from Citizens Advice * Tell Caterham in writing that you would like it fixed or replaced. * Keep a written contemporaneous record of all communications. If they won't fix or replace it you'll have to choose between accepting it or (probably) using the small claims process. Jonathan
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Quoting Smiffy7: - what's the MFRU?It's a collection of relay units, and, contrary to popular belief, the first two letters stand for Multi Function. The relay for the starter solenoid fails in some cars, producing the starter click problem, and the fix, which you already have, is to add an external relay. Jonathan
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As many layers of hose as it needs? Mine are 14" and one layer of garden hose works, but I think you could probably pack a fair bit more on the struts. Jonathan
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Have you decided what software to use? They seem to recommend iOBD2 but if you look at the user ratings in the version on the US App Store it's pretty discouraging. As I wrote in another thread if someone can find a combination of hardware and software that reliably does what's needed there would be a lot of happy members. Looking forward to your findings. Jonathan Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 16 Apr 2014 18:49:03
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Neither. The recommended value is the value at which you should stop twisting the head. What the stress is at various points in the finished assembly depends on all sorts of things in addition to that. You can't, for example, assume that two similar fastenings that only differ in one having a Nyloc nut and the other something else will end up with the same stress at a given location after they are each tightened to the same torque at the head. There are lots of ways of setting bolts accurately other than the sort of torque wrench we mostly use. And the K series engine has an unusual fastening feature: the engine through bolts are designed to operate in plastic deformation rather than elastic. Bolted joints, Wikipedia article Jonathan
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Does the loop of the cable change shape when you push the pedal? Can you detect the same instability when revving in neutral or only when driving? Does it occur if you open the throttle by hand? Or operate the pedal end of the cable by hand? Thanks Jonathan
