Jonathan Kay
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Everything posted by Jonathan Kay
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Well done. I'd use a lower rated fuse too but it's a very small point. Jonathan
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Have you tried putting something like a lens or fruit gum on top of it to enlarge the area of brightness? If that works you can the find a similar permanent solution. Can you find any more information, possibly from a diagram or serial number, to identify the current LED? Jonathan PS: I suspect you're going to regret that typo! :-) Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 23 Apr 2014 16:28:21
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Quoting mcerbm: The diagram I made up was just a guess I need to actually get a caterham wiring diagram. I wouldn't of thought the full battery current goes through the ignition? wouldn't there be a spark when you flicked the aero switch? I'm guessing there must be a resistor somewhere between battery and ignition?It's not really through the ignition: the possible problem is the additional current through the ignition switch and existing wiring. I suggest you have a look at Ian B's post and read around to understand why a relay might be a good idea. The way that you have described you'd only need one and it could be at the start of the long feed run: it doesn't have to be near the new fusebox at the rear. Jonathan
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Where to get suspension setup and temperature question
Jonathan Kay replied to Scott Dabinett's topic in TechTalk
Does it have a thermostat, and, if it does, at what temperature does it open? Jonathan -
As John says,much easier. NB It won't be isolated by the master switch if you do it the same way as mine: New wire from battery positive terminal Fuse in that wire close to the battery Cigar lighter socket firmly fixed (in-panel or surface mounting) Grommets in panels and tether wires Check polarity before use Jonathan
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OK: can you get to the other end of that wire, probably at the wiper module or switch? Jonathan
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Have you got those current estimates? I strongly suspect you're going to need one or more relays to avoid putting too much current through the ignition switch. I've come across a lot of poor connections with "cigar lighter" plugs and sockets. They might be OK but I'd look at better connectors. Jonathan
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That sounds good. Have a look at the output side of that and see if you could get another wire onto the connector. (You could use a Scotchlok connector onto the existing wire but opinion on their reliability seems to be split.) More basic stuff: rubber grommets where you go through panels and tie down cable runs so they can't flap anywhere. Have you got a multimeter already? Jonathan
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Thanks ... just what I was thinking! :-) And they might be useful on bikes. Jonathan
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Quoting Ian B: I used C10 SWA Cable Cleats hereThose look neat. Is the transverse hole at the bottom threaded? Thanks Jonathan Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 22 Apr 2014 18:24:28
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You've spotted the point about charging. Most of what you'll find in the archives is people who do want charging, with circuits that do it that way. My first choice would be an existing "Accessory" fuse in the fusebox, which usually means ignition-switched. I don't know the layout of the fuse box in your model: does anyone have a diagram? Jonathan
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Check voltage as above. Did it arrive fully filled or did you have to add anything? Suggest you photograph the battery and the damage. Jonathan
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Lots on this in the archives. Do you want it switched with the ignition? Do you have a master switch? Jonathan
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Classic Silicone Hoses? Jonathan
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*arrowup*Thanks. Has anyone found scales that hold the display? Jonathan
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Quoting 6speedmanual: Very hard to fing wirh big enough capacity.I don't understand that: 200kg bathroom scales are widely available. Is more than that needed? Thanks Jonathan
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Same problem as here? Have you got the adjuster bracket swivelling easily? Jonathan
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:-) Jonathan
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The links to the PDFs don't quite work, although I could find them. How many of those devices do you want to be switched with the ignition? As you say you need to discover the nominal peak current for each of the devices you're planning to power from that additional accessory feed. You may need some relays. What sort of connector are you thinking of for the wiring to the heated seats? (I don't know the rules on modifications or electrical safety for the competitions in which you want to participate, but you need to find out before you start wiring.) Jonathan Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 21 Apr 2014 00:52:23
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Ford spring compressor 12-007 for brake calipers
Jonathan Kay replied to Nick Woods's topic in TechTalk
Usual sources don't come up with one. Some suggestions in Ford forums that you can do it with a valve spring compressor, but no details beyond that or an exchange unit. Jonathan -
Using "clicked" in this thread shows an admirable lack of superstition... :-) Jonathan
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Hope it's fixed. Now it's reliable you can go and buy a multimeter! (Mail order options are available.) :-) Jonathan
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Send me a BlatMail and I'll send what I've got. Have you gone through the documents on the Caterham site Jonathan
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On my picture of a Sigma fuse box there's a 7.5A fuse at each end! The one next to the one you want is for the reversing lights: that should help you find it. Check, clean and jump around those earths once you know you are getting 12V at the lampholder. Jonathan
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I think on current Sigma models it's now fuse "A" with no other circuits. Reversing lights are now on "B". Jonathan
