Jonathan Kay
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Everything posted by Jonathan Kay
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I don't have a definitive diagram. From the archives, and follow the link From Alcester Racing 7s: 1 2 Jonathan PS: I know what you mean and others have the same sentiment but "MFRU" may work better when searching than "MFU"! Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 10 May 2014 13:12:46
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*arrowup*Exactly And those frequent changes mean that lots of properties that are relevant in other uses aren't for ours. See also coolant. Jonathan
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Possible Bulk Buy Jonathan
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Quoting Abbot: Managed to pull the hub off tonight to find that the half shaft has broken. It is a very strange break that apears to have propogated from the key groove and effectively peeled a chunk off the taper cone. I will post some pics at the weekend for anyone interested.Better out than in. Are you going to remove the LH shaft and inspect? Jonathan
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Thanks Jonathan
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Relay or flasher unit? I would bet on a faulty unit. If you really mean positive and negative then connecting it the wrong way round would probably blow the fuse. Jonathan
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... but within 60 to 120 flashes/minute? Jonathan
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:-) ... still quite interesting. Jonathan
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I would guess it's a class effect. :-) Jonathan Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 8 May 2014 11:52:17
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Ahem :-) Jonathan
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Quoting Roadracer1977: "Gtechniq C4 utilises a covalent or chemical bond to actually become an extension of the plastic molecule it's protecting."Does it work on bikes, and was it invented by Flann O'Brien? :-) Jonathan Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 8 May 2014 10:58:26
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Thanks Jonathan
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Quoting Gregs79: If its any help, I fitted led side repeaters and I didn't need to fit any resistors or change the relay so yours should be the same. I will be doing the same as you when my car is back and don't expect any issues, just plug and play.Was that with incandescent lamps in the other indicators and LEDs only in the repeaters? Jonathan
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I think it's nearly all smoke (hopefully the absence of) and mirrors, and making it as easy as possible for the buyer. There are some independent comparisons but they're hard to do. I don't think they have shown anything special about that kind of branded oil. If it meets the specification it's OK for most purposes. But thrashing a 7 at high acceleration is unusual: that's why there are dry sumps and debates about foam in the sump. Most 7s get their oil changed very frequently compared to road cars so long life isn't very important. I use Caterham recommended spec fully synthetic in my unmodified K series. What's your engine and set-up? And how do you use your 7? Jonathan
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It sounds like a simple problem, but (apart from the impedance problem) I can't remember seeing a product that satisfies all of the following: * Same physical base to fit the lamp holder * Orange * Appropriate brightness * Appropriate angle of illumination * Legal for road use. But it's a topic that suffers from even more thread proliferation than most! Jonathan
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Quoting Roadracer1977: Quoting Jonathan Kay: You probably know this already but you might need to make some changes to the flasher unit for it to work with LEDs.And no, I didn't know that - ideally I'd want just a hassle free 'plug and play' bulb if there is such a thingSome LEDs don't present the right load to traditional flasher units. You have to add resistors or a proprietary module or change the flasher unit IIRC. I think there are details in the archives. Jonathan
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You probably know this already but you might need to make some changes to the flasher unit for it to work with LEDs. Jonathan
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Me: "Is this a Lotus 7 or a Locost?" Seller: "It's registered as a lotus élan on a locust kit. But has a lotus v5 and engine." Jonathan
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Well done Jonathan
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Quoting Ed White: I've reported it to ebay. Its false advertising as that title still tries to lead you to it being a lotus seven.Good move. I asked the seller a question the last time round and was about to do the same, but that's probably more likely to be effective. Jonathan
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Sounds like the right time to start investigating. You're already sure that it doesn't only occur at low revs. What's the battery voltage at rest, while cranking and at idle? Jonathan
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I don't understand what the speedo was doing: was it showing the (approximate) road speed correctly throughout as you slowed down? Jonathan
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*arrowup*Shirley it would have to be four people, divided into pairs, with each member of a pair sharing the cost equally... Jonathan
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I think that suggests you've got a high resistance on the feed side to that circuit: could be before, in, or after the fuse. But it has to be upstream of where those circuits divide. I don't know your layout. What can you disconnect, inspect, clean and reconnect? Can you get a meter on the fuse or somewhere in the circuit nearby and see if the voltage there behaves like the battery or like the Stack voltmeter? That should help you localise the lesion. If nothing is easily accessible you can make a blade fuse which includes breakout leads: take a broken fuse, attach two leads and fit a new fuse holder and fuse at the accessible end of the leads. Jonathan Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 4 May 2014 23:01:43
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Thanks Jonathan
