Jonathan Kay
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Everything posted by Jonathan Kay
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Quoting 10uptobase: ... but am planning to check the voltage at rest and when running to ensure its charging / holding a charge OK. Next on the list was security of power leads / earth to the starter.I'd add battery voltage while cranking. Jonathan
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*arrowup*Thanks Jonathan
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Quoting Birkin S3 ZA.: If its tight after drilling the hole, heat the bolt until red with a small gas welding torch. If done quickly without the nut getting red the bolt will shrink as it cannot expand... I think that heat causes expansion and subsequent contraction which breaks the bond between the two threads. I don't know if heat weakens thread locking compounds. Jonathan
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Quoting evotell: some times the length of the socket is longer than what we are plugging in so the contact point on the end doesn't touch the power sourceAgreed. A good wiggle and push might make contact. Jonathan
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For the differential diagnosis between those theories: can you get the multimeter probes directly onto the socket terminals (not the wire connected to it) while the different things are plugged in? Poor contact between the plug and socket will give you the same voltage as at the battery. Resistance in one of the joints or contacts between the battery and the socket while the device is connected will give you a lower voltage. Jonathan
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The LED test shows you have some voltage at the socket. I'd put my money on bad contact with the plug on the device that won't charge but good enough contact with the plug on the device used for testing. Could you confirm that those are actually different plugs, and tell us what all the devices and adaptors are? Jonathan Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 19 May 2014 21:16:56
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While the penetrating oil is soaking in... what's the full list of options for this: * Drill and destroy the bolt * Drill and apply a left-handed extractor, discussed here, with recommendations for drill bits * Weld a lever on the bolt * Cut a slot in the remnant and use a screwdriver bit * Centre punch, as above ... what else? Jonathan Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 18 May 2014 20:52:42
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If you take out a few more bricks and reshape what's underneath over a longer distance could you avoid the work of chamfering the bricks? Jonathan
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Yes Jonathan
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1 Rev counter needle vertical, as you say 2 Other interesting bits visible through the steering wheel that's too small to let you see the whole face Jonathan
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Are you past the stage of soaking it in penetrating oil? Jonathan
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That link takes me to a generic Picasa Mobile page. Jonathan
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Is the car's ground clearance and ride height what you want them to be apart from the issue with the drive? Jonathan
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Problems Refilling Coolant on Rover K-Series
Jonathan Kay replied to callumskeat's topic in TechTalk
Welcome. Everything we write is stored for ever in the archives. If you click on the "search" link above you get to a page that lets you search the archives. There are quite a lot of settings there, including how long back you want to go (set those to look for everything), which area you want to search and the words of interest. The easiest way to enter words is as individual words... try "bleed" and "coolant", but without the quotation marks. Stand well back as the responses come in... Just say if you can't get it to do what you want. Jonathan -
Problems Refilling Coolant on Rover K-Series
Jonathan Kay replied to callumskeat's topic in TechTalk
There's a lot on that in the archives. Have you found your way round the Search facility... you have to get all the pull-down menus set correctly. Jonathan -
We're all thinking the same but it would be good to check we're talking about the same fuse. I think it's probably number 14 at the end of the fusebox on your car... Jonathan
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Try this thread for commonly-used colours. Jonathan
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Which number fuse is it that's blowing? Jonathan
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Glad you're OK. I would guess it's the valve or the sealing around the valve. 1 It sat there in storage at high pressure with no problems, then you let it down, then it started leaking. What was the last thing you did... opened the valve. 2 That hissing at one point of rotation could be due to the valve being wobbled. Was that near where you pushed? Was it at the bottom when it hissed? Unlikely to have damaged the wheel but you might have. You need to get the tyre off and inspect whatever the probability or what we guess. Where are you going to take it? Jonathan Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 15 May 2014 18:33:08
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These might help: 1, 2, 3. Jonathan
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Did they cost less than £870 per side? Jonathan
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Yes, please. Can you tell us where you got them? Jonathan
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Does the teacup have a groove around it that might accept the edge of the hole in the face of the instrument with the dome/ closed end towards you? Jonathan
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Photo of both bits, please Jonathan
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Try these threads: 1 2 Jonathan
