Jump to content
Click here if you are having website access problems ×

Jonathan Kay

Member
  • Posts

    40,917
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    16

Everything posted by Jonathan Kay

  1. That's far too low. And at rest? I suppose you ought to check that the starter engagement isn't jammed... ... but in practice you're going to get out the jump leads. Jonathan Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 24 Jun 2014 16:40:03
  2. Check the battery connections, the high current feed to the starter and all the engine earths. Disconnect, inspect, reconnect. Battery voltage at rest and when you try to start? Jonathan Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 24 Jun 2014 16:30:55
  3. Quoting rjnewman: I found replacing the 12 volt cable to the starter solenoid did the trick. I also found it had already been replaced once. Solved all my hot starting issues for about 3 years.Was that the high current lead from the battery or the low current from the switch? There have been several reports where replacing either of these has fixed the problem. I haven't yet heard of anyone dissecting one to see what has happened inside. Jonathan
  4. Much nicer from that angle where they play off the stripe and belts. Jonathan Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 24 Jun 2014 08:10:35
  5. Colours go well together but in the rear quarter view the yellow looks a bit isolated. Where else could it be used: spare wheel, roll bar, some other bit of detailing... ? Please could we have a front quarter view? Jonathan
  6. 1 As above 2 Measure battery voltages at rest, cranking and idle both cold and hot. 3 Disconnect, inspect, clean and reconnect all the feeds as well the earths. Jonathan
  7. Assuming it doesn't have a garage sensor then engine speed and temperature somewhere are possible differences. What happens if you do the test as possible: * Induce the fault, noting the engine speed * Back in the garage asap, and run through those engine speeds again. It doesn't sound like a problem with the warning light but it might be worth checking the dynamo output voltage with a meter to check that it isn't. Jonathan
  8. Can you think of anything that's different between the conditions in the garage and on the road? Lights, radio, fans? Do you have a standard cooling system? Check fan belt. How to test the dynamo, voltage and current regulators. Jonathan Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 22 Jun 2014 12:18:58
  9. Quoting Jonathan Kay: My first guess is that it's taking the voltage at the coil terminal to earth. But that can't be a fault in the earth from the module.This might not be true, by analogy with that strange fault with brake lights where a bad earth causes an unusual earth route to occur. I'd put that Scotchlok back on the list of possible problems. Jonathan
  10. My first guess is that it's taking the voltage at the coil terminal to earth. But that can't be a fault in the earth from the module. It could be anywhere else, including inside the module. 1 Check connections are as intended. (Again!) 2 Can you check the positive from the coil outside and inside the module and see if it's shorting to earth? Are the instructions available? Jonathan
  11. How many new connections are there altogether? Jonathan
  12. Congratulations. I think you need a Google account to see that. Jonathan
  13. Lots of suggestions in the archives, including this thread. Jonathan
  14. Car Builder Solutions? Jonathan
  15. I think you're going to try PTFE tape on the thread. If you do: * Keep it away from the end that gets near the seal. * Please let us know if it stops the leak. Jonathan
  16. What do you see in the bleeding tube... mix of air bubbles and fluid or just air... and how long have you let it flow without that changing? Jonathan
  17. How are you bleeding? Jonathan
  18. I think the brown/yellow wire is usually the charging indicator... and it looks as if it's already connected... should be a smaller terminal than the others... Jonathan Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 17 Jun 2014 11:41:59
  19. How many faults are there that can switch on the rear but not the front indicator when they both work correctly on their own switch? (Assuming there are no LEDs or other diodes involved.) There's that effect when the adjacent bulb acts as the earth. I'd read that thread, check all the wiring, continuity in the lamp holders and the earth resistances. Jonathan
  20. Works OK for me now Jonathan
  21. Front and rear indicators both coming on with the brake? Does removing the brake light bulbs stop it happening? And indicators and hazard warning all work correctly on their own? Jonathan Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 16 Jun 2014 13:52:13
×
×
  • Create New...