Jonathan Kay

Morning, Andrew. Jonathan

What sort of ignition and ECU? + Check earths for block and ECU and instruments and similar. Any recent work or modifications? Jonathan

The starter: * Can you post a photo? * How many terminals? * Any identification marks? You can do the test I suggested while you're sorting this... if you have a multimeter... Jonathan Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 20 Jul 2014 09:01:13

I don't know what diagrams you have already. I can send you the Duratec diagrams tomorrow. What colour are the thin wires you have connected to the terminals on the starter? If you can locate the one that turns it on you can test what voltage it goes to when you try to start. This will tell you whether the fault lies in the connections (possible) or the starter (unlikely*) or in the signal (which could still be a problem with the immobiliser). Jonathan * The fault is not in our starters... but in ourselves.

1 What model, engine and dash? 2 I can't tell if you've conquered your immobiliser. 3 Have you ever heard the fuel pump joining in? 4 Check ECU fuse. 5 What's the battery voltage at rest and does it change at all when you try and crank? 6 I'd disable the ignition in some other way, reconnect and reset the inertia switch, make sure the immobiliser is off and then try starting. Jonathan

Quoting elan_fan: Go to ftdi.com and download the drivers and instructions, they are quite comprehensive.FTDi.com ... not bloomin' likely. Jonathan PS: Try FTDIchip.com. Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 19 Jul 2014 18:32:48

From the archives: 1 2 Jonathan

This area on the GOV.UK site. The input data to the logic that you'll need are: * Date of first registration * Date of vehicle manufacture. I don't know what the second of these means if you have a "Q" plate. Jonathan

Looks as if it varies. 2010 Assembly Guide: RADIUS ARMS 14 If Watts link has been specified refer to Para 17. 15 Fit the radius arms to the upper chassis bush with the waisted section facing outboard, to provide maximum clearance to the brake calliper. The arms are fitted using M10 x 65 mm cap head bolts (fastener pack 30R011A Item 2) passed from the inside of the cockpit through the radius arm and secured with nyloc nut (8) and plain washer (14). The bolts should be tightened to 34 Nm with the arms parallel to the ground. This preloads the bushes in the correct position for when the suspension is properly loaded. NOTE On some series 3 chassis a lower fixing boss is supplied to give optimum suspension geometry when used only for race and track purposes. This setting is not recommended for road usage. 16 Fit the rear end of the radius arm between the brackets on the top of the De Dion tube using bolt (3) passed inboard and secure using a nyloc nut (6). Do not fully tighten. Jonathan

Have you got the Owners Handbook? There's a whole section on "Security" and how to reset etc. If not send me a BlatMail and I'll send you the one that I think is current. Jonathan

Lots of members have bought them from Tayna and Seven Speed, eg here. No personal experience. Jonathan PS: I'm In South Oxfordshire: let me know if I can help. Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 19 Jul 2014 08:07:00

Thanks Jonathan

Sounds good: well done. What's a DTC in this context? Jonathan

That was a challenge. It's Ford 6171532. Should be easy from there, eg: using eBay. Jonathan

Any ideas why experiences vary so much? Jonathan

Discussed here. Jonathan

What do you intend to use the 7 for: road, touring, track days, racing... ? Clam shells or cycle wings? Thoughts so far on tyres? What ground clearance do you want? I'd put speedometer accuracy well down in the list of importance: you can always add marks to the dial if you don't want to spend any money on that. But what sort do you have? Jonathan Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 17 Jul 2014 10:50:23

In everyday language, and as a crude approximation my working guide for typical car systems with ordinary batteries is that you should observe : Rest, fully charged, no load: Voltage > 12.6V. This is not a sensitive early sign of battery failure. But if the voltage is lower there is a problem. Cranking: Voltage > 9.5V. Low voltage while cranking can be the first sign of battery failure. The voltage at the starter is sensitive to high resistance from poor connections etc regardless of the condition of the battery. Charging (say 3,000 rpm to allow for unusual pulleys): Voltage > 13.8V, and usually > 14.2V. This is a test of the charging system, but don't try it without a battery. Electronic systems eg ignition can't be relied on to work below 9.5V. I'm happy to be corrected by the experts. From my experience and the archives: 1 Most problems can be quickly localised with these three tests, which need a multimeter, and sometimes some good jump leads and another car alongside. But in many threads it's hard to extract this information. If you're asking for advice adding the observed voltages is going to save you time. 2 Inspecting, checking and cleaning feeds and earths as early as possible also saves time in the long run. Jonathan Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 17 Jul 2014 08:00:45

Thanks, Ed. Possible Bulk Buy: let's see. Jonathan

How many people would be interested in a battery box, probably sheet aluminium cut by water jet? The different sizes of batteries could be managed by either a different pattern for each size or a single pattern that could be folded in different ways. Maybe a club logo or a 7 somewhere. Nonbinding expressions of interest please, preferably with your battery size. Thanks Jonathan

Lots of us leave 7s on conditioning chargers all the time they're unused. Good advice on checking the fluid. I suggest measuring the battery voltage at rest, during cranking and at 3,000 rpm if you're worried it's on the way out, or you've got a charging problem. Jonathan

The Caterham spec is "EP 90". I don't think that Castrol claim that B-373 meets that and they have another product called "Classic EP 90". But you must have a reason for asking... Jonathan

*arrowup* *arrowup* Did you have them powdercoated or cleaned and fettled and sealed and polished? Thanks Jonathan

Trickle charger or conditioning charger? Jonathan PS: Probably nothing to worry about.

Ed: I've often thought that a lot us would buy battery carriers (boxes with cut outs in the sides) if they could be made economically to fit the different sizes. Sheet aluminium, either a different pattern for each size or a single pattern that could be folded in different ways. Maybe a club logo if you're using computer-controlled cutting. Jonathan