Jonathan Kay

This thread contains links to the calculation. Jonathan

Mine has a hoop near the RH lower front wishbone fitting. Jonathan

This is the one I recommend:Quoting Jonathan Kay: click here, because you're worth it.Jonathan

52 hits in the archives, including this. But someone might have a bag left over... Jonathan

:-) Sounds as if you've fixed it. But keep an eye on the temperature and check the expansion tank after the first few runs. Jonathan

In that case leave the multimeter across the battery and measure the voltage as it cranks, or tries to. Jonathan

Would you like the manual? Jonathan

There's nothing like face-to-face instruction, but while you're waiting: * What model have you got? * Do you have the dud fuse still? The first two things you need to learn are how to measure voltage* and continuity. Switch it to voltage on a range that includes 12V DC. Stick one probe on one battery terminal and the other on the other. What does it say? I'll get to continuity when we know what sort you have. An indicator fuse blowing once might just be bad luck but if it does it again you need to investigate as soon as possible. (At least according to Oscar Wilde. Ian Fleming allows one more go.) Jonathan * I know, but I'm trying to help. Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 19 Aug 2014 18:10:44

The basic idea is to get the bleed point higher than that of any other bit of the circuit. Can you do that with the current location of the t-piece and the car on its wheels? Jonathan

Could be the battery. Could be the feed to the solenoid. Could (possibly) be something else. Do you have a multimeter? If not treat yourself to one. It will save you a lot of time, There are lots of reports of the solenoid feed problem depending on the engine temperature. So you could in theory be misled by it successfully starting with a new battery or a jump from another battery if you do that when it's cold. Jonathan

Have you jacked up the rear? Jonathan

That will be the Australian model. Can you see an easy way of relocating the t-piece? Jonathan

Send me a BlatMail and if you haven't posted that you have the right one by the time I get home tonight I'll send what I've got. Jonathan

Which model? Have you asked BC for diagrams already? Jonathan

Quoting Jon Stewart: 1. Battery was showing 12.5v when tested by the Green Flag man. 2.I had a quick look around but nothing seemed amiss. I'll have a good look tomorrow night. 3. Just the once about 3 weeks ago. It started on the button and did 120 miles on Saturday morning. Left it for a few hours, started first time, drove 16 miles then no re-start. 4. I had a search and came up with quite a few topics Some further reading tonight for me. It does sound like insufficient smoke at the solenoid: the canonical click-causer. Would you feel happy trying the jumping trick and reporting back? If that doesn't work it still can be due to bad earths: as that trick only jumps the feed. You're probably at the point where it's worth disconnecting, inspecting, cleaning and reconnecting all the earths. Jonathan PS: Do you have a multimeter?

Quoting keybaud: I have traced and checked every cable from the battery to the starter motor and back again, in an effort to resolve my starting problems and I have now discovered that the problem is nothing to do with the starter motor itself or any of the wiring to and from it. I had a low voltage at the solenoid, which seemed to cause the starter to engage and disengage erratically, although it didn't 'click'. I replaced or tested all the cables and stripped and rebuilt the starter motor, but the problem remained. This weekend I removed all the connections from the back of the ignition and tested the starter with each individual connection and I found that I only get the voltage drop when one of 2 cables are connected. Unfortunately, the wiring has been modified in the past to fit a kill switch and I'm not sure what the 2 cables actually do. They are white, but so are 2 other cables and these don't cause the voltage drop Have you done Myles' jumping trick? Jonathan PS: Today I am mostly happy. :-)

I'd guess it' "before". Ask them? Jonathan

No idea which way round that is labelled. Can you link to the item? I buy it in assorted colours and sizes. Jonathan

1 What's the battery voltage with the charger disconnected and nothing turned on? 2 Have a good look at all the feeds and earths that are anywhere near the battery and starter. 3 How much have you used it in the last six weeks? 4 Have you had a chance yet to read the archives on "starter click"? Jonathan Edited by - Jonathan Kay on 18 Aug 2014 14:45:09

I think you'll be fine. I'd keep an eye on the temperature and the coolant level for the next few runs. Besides, what other options are there? Jonathan PS: Thanks for the response about threads. I prefer the opposite. Let's see what happens when we get the technical wikis up. I'm sure that coolant filling and modifications will be one of the most popular.

Thanks Jonathan

What model and any modifications? Sounds good so far. Do you have a heater and, if so, do you think it has filled and works? I'd check that the fan cuts in appropriately while you're thinking about it. Jonathan PS: Why start a new thread?

Well done. Is the wood used to bring up the force from the jack onto the end of the tool? Jonathan

That link worked fine earlier. Jonathan

If there's a good stub protruding is cutting a slot and using a screwdriver any better than using a self-grip wrench on the thread? Thanks Jonathan