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Jonathan Kay

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Everything posted by Jonathan Kay

  1. Have you perused DVA Power and the K series page? Jonathan
  2. As post numbers have appeared... as in Post #11? ;-) Jonathan
  3. :-), and there was a stage in the early brute force approach where I remembered to keep my knees together as well! Jonathan
  4. On Rob's tin's lable's list! ;-) Jonathan
  5. Fixed. Sticky sprung balls. Probably not greased when fitted. Jonathan
  6. Some progress. Wheel off fitting. PlusGas down the middle and the collar is now moving normally. Jonathan
  7. Momo wheel with blue sliding Racetech collar. Used to slide the collar towards me and then pull the wheel off. Hasn't been off for a year. Collar now only moves 2 mm and I can't shift the wheel. Collar rotates freely. All advice appreciated. Thanks. Jonathan
  8. Thanks: what does it say on the pull down menu on the L? I'm now working around the problems by keeping three tabs open: "ChitChat/ Last updated = This month" "TechTalk/ Last updated= This month" "Any/ New and Updated/ This month".Jonathan
  9. CarPlan Brake Cleaner at GSF: "The product contains a special blend of degreasing solvents and is free of any chlorinated material". And if this is the right data sheet it's petrol fractions and isopropyl alcohol. But what's the missing 65%? Jonathan
  10. Phil, is that this? Thanks. Jonathan
  11. Is the problem only with threads that you have updated. or does it occur with others? Thanks. Jonathan
  12. Different proprietary brake cleaners are different chemicals. For example Holt's is mostly alkanes and other petrol fractions, Autosmart's is petrol fractions and propanol, Brakleen is mostly tetrachloroethylene. Carbon tetrachloride is far too toxic to be used as brake cleaner. It hasn't been used in drycleaning in rich countries for decades. I don't know if it's still available in any nonspecialist retail products, but I doubt it. (The most common drycleaning solvent is tetrachloroethylene ("perc") and I don't think that will be around much longer.)Jonathan PS: What does it say on your fluid, Rob, and where are you getting it from? Or is it very old stock?
  13. Recent discussion in this thread. Jonathan
  14. Ah... the links to member's installations have disappeared! Length: 318mm. Internal diameter 82mm. Distance between mounting holes: about 268mm. Photos here. Would anyone be kind enough to repost their photos?Jonathan
  15. Links from posts made before the transition appear to be null when examined in the dialog box. But they aren't. I've just been exploring one and it turns out to be: http://www.lotus7.club/%22http://www.blatchat.com/t.asp?id=235381&pn=2&ps=15%22Jonathan
  16. 15A sounds like a lot for a radio: is it very powerful? I'd check that. Jonathan
  17. I think it's usually recommended to use wire that has a rating of at least 1.5 x the expected current, but I'm cautious and would use 2x. Have you got current ratings or only gauges or diameter for the wire you're considering? Charles posted a link to a table which has the equivalences in this thread... oh. The fuse should be the lowest that doesn't blow, and always less than the wire rating. Don't know about books or web sites. There's a good introduction in Hillier, which is essential anyway. (There's a Volume 2 on electronics, but I've never looked at that.) Dr Slotter also recommended a book on electrics for racing cars.Jonathan
  18. No more clever ideas on the multiple symptoms. It does suggest problems with an earth because they are more often shared than feeds. Starting with the rear brake lights will reveal that, and explore Mankee's suggestion. Agree that an ECU problem doesn't sound right for all of that. What sort of dash?Jonathan
  19. In general I'd agree with you about the cranking test, but I'd always start with those voltages, because it can quickly exclude lots of problems, gives an early warning of battery problems and only takes a minute (and a meter). It is possible that the voltage is being pulled down to a point where eg the ECU won't play nicely. Jonathan
  20. When was it last all working, and what has been done since then? Check all connections, both feeds and earths. Disconnect the relevant ones, clean and reconnect. Check relevant fuses. Measure the battery voltage at rest, during cranking and at 3,000 rpm. On the indicators: there's a known problem with bad contacts in the switch that causes this. Wiggle the switch and see if function can be restored, even temporarily. On the brake lights: short out the switch contacts and see if they come on. If they do fettle (spring is here!) or replace the switch. If they don't check the brake light earth with a meter or jump a new good earth as a test.Jonathan
  21. I didn't know the pattern before... Jonathan
  22. Brake cleaner sounds a bit fierce to me, and, IIRC, there are lots of different formulations. Did you try anything gentler first? Thanks, Jonathan
  23. Ah, misunderstood the title. Thought it was going to be about a Conservative MP. Jonathan
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