Jonathan Kay
-
Posts
40,920 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
16
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Blatmaps
Speed Championship Results
News
Website Help
Downloads
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by Jonathan Kay
-
:-) It was the best title I could find... but then I couldn't remember if people could see the Test Area. See you next year, but it won't be as good! Jonathan
-
Yes. There's a Piper kit, and the cheapest I've seen it is... £9.36 at Caterham Parts. But if someone could tell us what oil to use... Jonathan
-
Yes. But if you're following eg the Assembly Guide letter for letter you need to look at the general instructions as well to see what the writer assumed. It's also a good idea to know the rule of thumb torque settings for fastener sizes. But one of the joys of the web is that you can check here. :-) Jonathan
-
K-Series start needs throttle - Brise issue?
Jonathan Kay replied to Dick Whittington's topic in TechTalk
Thanks for the update, glad it's fixed. It's surprising but we've now got several examples of what sounds like adequate battery oomph (because it's supporting adequate cranking) but turns out not to be. Recommended multimeter: Draper 60792, but any should do this fine. Jonathan -
You're probably way ahead of me but aren't there several different types of Sierra diffs... IIRC someone explained this once. Jonathan
-
Wise approach. Good luck Jonathan
-
interesting. My silcone hoses have a blue inner layer. Were yours originally yellow throughout? Jonathan
-
Spec or part number aren't in either the Assemby Guide or Owner's Handbook. Do you need any more on identifying them or finding equivalents? Jonathan
-
Following Nigel and GJT's thoughts... measure the battery voltage at rest and during cranking. I'm generally rather keen on doing this early (!) in the diagnostic process. I'd bet against voltage deficiency in this case (no ECU and the appropriate ignition on ether) but it's quick and easy to do. Jonathan
-
SM25T is asking about the live and earth connections to the new temporary battery... how fat are they and where are they connected? Jonathan
-
Seems like a sensible thing to do from both a safety and practicality point of view. Agreed. Wish I'd thought about this when I built mine. I later discussed it with the factory and they couldn't see any reason not to use them on road cars. Jonathan
-
Deleted Jonathan
-
I've never been entirely convinced by the stale fuel theory Nor me, for petrol in car tanks for a few months. But in this case I'd still change it as Terry proposes. Jonathan
-
As well as normal rivnuts, I've just ordered some rubber ones to see how well these work. Rubber well nuts? http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTE2WDE2MA==/z/wDgAAOSwd4tTv~eE/%24_35.JPG I use these to hold the jack etc in place under the bonnet. The clamping is good but some of them come loose from the panel when the screw is removed. The lip is also quite thick. Jonathan
-
I'd use a bolt (which would probably be a machine screw), a nut, a spread washer against the wood and a lock washer. Think about placing the fittings so they don't get in the way of fitting the floor. Jonathan
-
I thought Andrew might have a circuit diagram! :-) Jonathan
-
Dare I ask: has anyone got lights in their boot? Jonathan
-
I think it's used for both "People of BlatChat" and "Power of BlatChat" with the lovely idea that the latter is almost supernaturally effective. :-) Jonathan PS: I'd prefer "PoBC".
-
Yes, I'd look for very lightweight fittings. Ship's chandlers are often good for this sort of thing, especially in stainless. Rattles in 7s... sensitivities vary... ;-) Jonathan
-
The recessed lashing hooks above are definitely the sort of thing I'm after... Presumably, when people use these you make full depth cut outs in the boot floor for flush fitting? I'm lazy and was thinking of fitting them on top of the carpet without cut-outs and without recessing (which slightly changes the preferred design). But cut-outs and recessng would be neater... Jonathan
-
To replace the floor and carpet, or sit on top? Jonathan
-
Yes, I meant that, but for recent cars there's also an Owner's Handbook. I can't check until I get home on Sunday... On posher plugs: i'd normally say that for most modern engines in most uses there's no advantage in going above the manufacturer's spec... but yours don't sound happy. So until that problem is resolved I suppose there might be... Jonathan
-
Have you got the Guide for the 150? I think that gives the part number. You can almost certainly find a part number on your current ones, and that will help you find the equivalent of whatever make you choose. Please can someone advise: does that engine have a lost spark system? If so there's a subtlety about identifying replacement plugs. (The manufacturers use different original plugs on the cylinders that have the extra sparks.) There is a surprising number of problems with people, plugs and tools. I'd recommend using a clever tool with a rubber insert and being very careful as you engage the thread. You'll be fine. Jonathan PS: No comment on whether this is the cause of a misfire... but check your lead connections first.
-
That was the next question... about when it last worked. It would help a lot to see some photos or a sketch with wire colours of how it's currently (!) connected. Jonathan
-
If the solenoid doesn't do anything noticeable when it gets 12V feed (measured at its terminal, not the other end of any wire) then either its earth isn't made or it's knackered. It's probably worth disconnecting, cleaning and reconnecting both ends of the earth cable . Jonathan
