Jonathan Kay

I now need to remove the same from my waist! Somewhat harder I think. But there are ways that help... how about a bit of "Nudge"? One approach described in the Los Angeles Times. Charity should be NtL of course. And you could start a trend... :-) Jonathan

No, you haven't. It follows from the definition of the "New and Updated" view that the system designers used. My workaround is given in this thread. Jonathan

Those resistance values suggest the sender is working. But there do seem to be different ranges used by different senders and gauges, see this thread, which also suggests how to work around that. Some presumably common sender ranges are in the calibration table in this Stack manual. is there any documentation for your new gauge? While you've got in bits take the opportunity to test the whole lot on the bench without any of the possibly problematic wiring, either feed or earth. Fused 12V supply. Completely new wiring from that through the sender to each gauge in turn, slowly moving the float from end to end. How does each gauge respond, and is the response consistent?Jonathan PS: ... so what do we think the conclusion here is, that the wiring is good, my Caterham gauge is faulty and my Racetech gauge needs a special sender? Possibly, but you may be able work with that sender and some trickery.

Lots of options for mounting on stanchions. There's also a panoramic system that runs along the top of the windscreen: http://www.mirrorsforsevens.com/images/specs1_picture1.jpg But it does sound as if yours are more wobbly than most... Jonathan

Oh, yes... it's not as dangerous as the stuck steering wheel, but thinking about the trajectory before separation is a good idea! ;-) Jonathan

Set your multimeter to the highest resistance range: what is that numerically? Touch the probes to each other and record the reading. Then touch one probe to the wire and one to a good earth. Record the reading. Jonathan

Fuel gauges used to work off the heating effect of the current on a bimetallic strip, which meant the direction of connection didn't matter. But I have no idea how they work now, including yours*. Have you got a serial number and a photo? Continuity between the end of the wire that goes into the sender and the other end of the same wire that goes into the gauge is good Check the resistance of that wire (with both ends disconnected) to earth. Jonathan * When we've got this sorted let's go back to explaining what happened with your two gauges... perhaps one used heating effect and the other some electronic stuff.

Similar thoughts on a K in an MG F. Jonathan

Yes, make a long test lead with anything that conducts so you can get back to the meter... typically one wire in an old mains lead. Croc clips help but aren't essential. Remember to disconnect the ends of the one you're testing from anything else. Chafing can be intermittent (and I recently learnt that if its seems to be related to engine temperature it's worth looking first near the engine and gearbox). Send me a Private Mail if you'd like the diagram, which will give the wire colour. Jonathan

That sounds like a short to earth of the wire that runs from the gauge to the sender... can someone please confirm it works that way round? It could be anywhere within that but I'd guess the most common are near the gauge and where the wire is clamped to the chassis. Assuming that's right: What model and dash? Have you got a wiring diagram? Start with a good look around the back of the gauge and identify the wires (again).Jonathan

Is it relentless or are you still soon after a refill? Jonathan

Recent discussion but unfortunately no consensus. Jonathan

You should have the Guide by email already... Jonathan

Fine. Jonathan

When they say "coarse"... have you got the wrong end of the stick? Jonathan

:-) Can we do the thread thread jokes now? Jonathan

Onomatopoeic? Jonathan

I'm happy to start taking requests for the next batch of canisters... and have one for four. Jonathan

The T6 is a unique ecu to Lotus, if you need to find a pin-out all I can suggest is you look in the direction of the Evora, that will be as close as you will find in the public domain. Is that link I added in post #42 not relevant? Thanks Jonathan

Very interesting. I haven't had a chance to read it all yet. How about installing a wire from the fuel pump feed terminal back to a voltmeter in the cockpit so that you can see what it's getting every time you try to start? And if it shows variability there then working back upstream using the same approach, preferably with two meters? Jonathan

Probably not the correct thread to ask in but why are the Banner batteries so carp or is it purely the way they are used in a Seven that seems to shorten their life so. Good question. Some possibilities: The batteries are inherently not very long-lived. Multiple deep discharges, as Tim says. ECUs tripping becomes a limiting factor, even though the engine still cranks. They get cooked.Jonathan (PVR 25 on a conditioning charger, and no current problems)

I think the Club has a liaison person... Jonathan

I've just tried to reply to that Private Mail but got an error message. I've told Shaun. Jonathan

I've tried to send you a Private Mail but the system says there's a problem. I have the 2012 and 2014 Assembly Guides but the wiring diagrams in those cover "Sigma" and R400". And all the ones I've seen from that era are highly schematic. Have you checked the Caterham site? Does anyone have anything better? T6 pinouts. Jonathan

Yes. Are the two defects the same? Jonathan