Jonathan Kay

I don't think you're missing a simple solution! Elie found a possibility. Lots of previous suggestions to see if the factory would give us a colour card. But no-one has managed that yet: it might be a custom mix and they can't. (There are suggested mixes.) "Tony at TSK" has a reputation for being very helpful: it might be worth asking him directly. Good luck Jonathan

Thanks, Tim. But I do wonder why it's like that when those instrument feeds aren't off the same fuse: it might be a relic of a previous arrangement. Jonathan PS: Do you have any more CSR-specific documents that I can add to my store?

Good point, Tony. I couldn't remember whether a bad contact there could affect one side. Jonathan

Desirable but not a high priority for me. Jonathan

Standard set-up... not LEDs? Wiggle switch a few times. Check voltage at the switch output. Assuming 2 is OK take all the bulbs out and check voltage at the terminal on the lampholder.Jonathan

No evidence other than reputation but I'd think that Bosch was low risk. But there are other causes for the click so I'd also go through all the relevant connections and check the voltage while cranking. Jonathan

What are the factory name for the colour and the codes you've got so far? Jonathan

Just checked the diagram for that model. Why are side/tail light RHS fuses 7.5A and LHS fuses 5A? The numberplate light is fed from the RHS, and those fuses don't feed the reversing light or high-intensity rear lamp. Jonathan

I can't explain the relation to starting. How much can you isolate various parts of the wiring to the three lights? I think all of them have local connectors. Break all of those and see if the problem persists. If it doesn't add them back one at a time. And what Tim says. Jonathan PS: You're going to eat a lot of fuses on this. It might be worth buying a resettable circuit breaker.

I haven't got an iPad to play with, but I know that some members have cracked uploading photos. How far do you get in that process? Jonathan

Have you got a multimeter and a wiring diagram? (I'm a great advocate of not jumping to electrical conclusions but I'd be looking for an intermittent short to earth in one of the light units.) Jonathan

I've got the factory instructions, but only on paper. If you'd like a scanned copy please send me a Private Mail with your email address. Jonathan

From the Assembly Guide*, and it's only a starting point: CARS FITTED WITH ADJUSTABLE DAMPER PLATFORM 22 Cars fitted with adjustable damper platforms should be set to have a ride height of a minimum 75 mm under the sump with driver and passenger aboard. The rear of the car should then be adjusted to be approximately 15 mm higher than the front. This is achieved by lowering or raising the height of the platforms on the collar. Lower the collar to decrease ride height, raise the collars to increase ride height. At the end of adjustments ensure that the collars are locked together to avoid movement. Can you add some photos of the shock absorbers and springs? Jonathan * Send me a Private Mail if you'd like a copy.

Drive yours more. I have long periods away and the first few drives often create some... uncertainties. Compare it with as many others as possible. Have a good look at and play with the suspension, especially bushes. Talk to Simon Rogers directly. Jonathan (Crossed with the previous two.)

Basically the same, but Shaun's includes a few more. I think that some of the items, and especially the cam belt and tyres, should have an age limit as well as a mileage limit as many 7s do so few miles. I'd add: * Grease prop shaft UJs (conveniently done at MoT) * Drain and replace coolant, definitely for 7s, and possibly for others * Something about measuring voltages for early detection of batteries going off: possibly the most common single problem. Jonathan

Once the thermostats are open what's the difference between the standard and modified system? Thanks Jonathan

Is the position of the temperature sensor moved with this modification, please? One thing to be aware of is the QED solution isn't without it's own compromises. Warm up is slightly compromised, in that engine temps take a while to stabilise. It's ok if stationary as there is no airflow through the rad, but if driving on a cold day then during warm up there is cold airflow through the rad which further cools the water in the rad so when the stat does open it then dumps a rad and bottom hose full of cold water back into the system, which causes that stat to close again and so the cycle starts again. Will a łarger bypass exacerbate this or make it less likely? Very interesting. The lower the thermal inertia of the water in the bypass (thermostat closed) circuit the less oscillation, other things being equal(!), I think... Jonathan

Thanks, Graham. I need to read that few times again. I'm not convinced by their logic about positioning in terms of temperature control alone. Jonathan

Please could someone do (or point us to) a schematic sketch of the before and after circuits? Thanks Jonathan

That's pretty low... British Standard Clearance is a rolled Coke* can at around 66mm. From what I can gather most low roadgoing 7s are around 80mm. Laden. Jonathan * Might be higher in Westminster?

The 0 - 100mph - 0 record by the R500 Evolution might have been 10.73s with the noisy bit being 6.92s but I can't find a source I'd trust. Jonathan

See Shaun's post in this thread. Jonathan

I wouldn't put brake cleaner in my 7's intake. For diagnosis I'd consider a commercial starting preparation or diethyl ether. Jonathan

You can probably get some data from the world record 0-100-0 runs. Jonathan

How close does it have to be? Have you checked Polevolt and Car Builder Solutions? Jonathan