Jonathan Kay

Thanks... something like that would make this a lot easier to solve. Jonathan

Recommended tool... but (imagine the voice here) that is not the thread I was looking for. Jonathan

Someone else solved this recently... and I think it was "more of the same". I'll have a look. Jonathan

Heated gloves: much bigger choice and can be used elsewhere. Think about the recharging strategy but that shouldn't be too hard in this case. Jonathan

http://www.scorpionauto.com/images/products/STERLINGEXCEL_1_zoom.jpg Will have to unearth an oscilloscope! :-) Jonathan

... have you checked your Private Mails recently? ;-) Jonathan

I personally would like to try to understand why some K Series cars seem have thermal issues at idle and some don't. Me too. I'm tempted to start a survey just to see if there is any pattern as to which cars have overheating problems and which don't. Please do. Jonathan

From Avon UK: "The CR500 is being replaced by the ZZS as OE on Caterhams, however Avon Motorsport will still continue to manufacture the CR500 for the foreseeable future." Do you want a source in France? Jonathan

Thanks. What's the easiest accurate way of testing a signal like that? Jonathan

A few more LEDs from other threads: CBS "Stealth", £594/ pair Model 8630, £144 for an unknown number GL 180EP, £364 each. Any more experiences out there? Jonathan

GL 180EP: £364 each Stealth: £594/ pair 8630: £144, can't tell for how many! Big recent discussion of headlights, including better incandescents and LEDs: suggest we continue over there. Previous discussion of DRLs. Jonathan

What's the nature of the signal to the tachometer: is it a voltage or a pulse rate? Thanks Jonathan

What is an immobiliser anyway? And what is it supposed to do? It's there to add security by preventing or deterring theft. It interferes with the fuel supply or ignition, and it's inherent that there's no easy way of bypassing it. There are several different sorts on 7s. See below. Many insurance policies (such as John's) depend on having one. They're rated by a "Thatcham" level. ... As above. All: Would the Easy Start trick help to confirm that diagnosis? Can you add a photo of your immobiliser fob to make sure that we're talking about the right one? But there are other causes of intermittent failure to fire while cranking. Measure the voltage across the battery with the ignition on and then while cranking. Jonathan

I'm on the road and will find it later, but there's lots in the archives, including some beam patterns. Are you only interested in lights that already meet the regulations? Jonathan

Similar thoughts to yours, except that I wouldn't be worried anything being blocked... yet. My K (much lower peak power than yours) also now stays too cool on motorways. I think that blanking some of the radiator is the only solution to that bit. Any problems with bleeding after that work, and have you checked the level again after the run? The experiment I'd do is swopping the thermostats back... Jonathan

In answer to your Subject... "No", but I'm learning a lot. How to decrease the thermal downshock from that slug of cold water from the radiator... in the absence of major changes you could either decrease the volume or increase the temperature of the water in the radiator (and that bit of the circuit). A small bypass or hole in the valve would do this by keeping the radiator warmer but would slow the whole system warming up. Why does that lttle coolant circuit to the electrical temperature sender exist rather than the sender being moved? Is it just easier to do the conversion that way? ... once all up to temp then there's no flow difference, however the stat will be reacting to water that has just left the engine not to the temp after it has been cooled via the rad as in the standard setup. At a given heat output from the engine it doesn't matter which side you sense it in control terms although the cut-off value would need to be different.But 4 suddenly made me realise why this problem is harder than I thought. In most control systems the sensor(s) that controls the valve(s) and the valve(s) can easily be separated. In car thermostats they're inherently together. Are there any modern engines or racing engines that separate the sensor(s) and actuator(s)? Are they available off the shelf? That's going to be more expensive and potentially less reliable, but it would make the whole thing much easier to control. Jonathan

Aha... do you both have the Caterham diagrams as well as the Stack manual? Jonathan

We can probably help you get a bit further with identifying pins and wires (do you have colour codes on the diagram you are using?) but I don't know enough about the physical layout of your car to go beyond that. Jonathan

I haven't seen anything that suggests it matters. But remember to check the direction of action afterwards! ;-) Does yours get up to the desired temperature cruising on cold days? If I were having a serious fettle in the area I'd probably make it easy to fit and remove a mask. And, of course, in your case a nominatively-determined logo. Jonathan

Filled expansion tank to correct level, put cap back on, then lowered the tank down and bolted it back on. I haven't got a Sigma and the procedure may be different... but should that filling level be used when the tank is down in position rather than held high? Jonathan

Do you have an Assembly Guide or wiring diagram? If you'd like one send me a Private Mail with your email address and I'll try and find the right one. Jonathan

... can you disconnect all the lights at the bulb holders Same principle of isolation, but I was thinking of breaking the three circuits where the fly leads from the lampholders connect to the wiring harness rather than at the lampholder. ... but it maybe possible to split back and front ccts on the back of Fuse 7 holder, worth a look to see if there are two or more connectors that could be disconnected. Don't know where they separate, but this would help a lot to localise the problem if it does turn out to be in the wiring. Easiest to try the three lamp units first. Jonathan

Are you switching the connections on the indicator switch or the hazard warning switch? If the LH side works when i switch the terminals then it must be the switch or am i missing something If you're switching the connection directly at the indicator switch then it's the switch. Confirm by disconnecting everything and measuring the switch's resistance from common to output on each side. Jonathan

Thanks :-) Jonathan

Which model of 7 and which ECU? Jonathan