Jonathan Kay

Would you like an Assembly Guide, John? Send me a Private Mail with your email address. Jonathan

A few Sigma-specific hints in this thread. Jonathan

Well done. Jonathan

Duncan: Is there any way we could merge the information in yours with that in Shaun's? Thanks Jonathan

Have you got enough on the approach using jacking and massage? Jonathan

Upgrades! Jonathan

I use one of these: http://i1.adis.ws/i/washford/117291?%24pd_main_v2%24 Jonathan PS: ... what does the hamster think? Sounds a bit cheeky...

The torque settings are in the Guide. Send me a private mail with your email address. Some trolley jacks won't go low enough: check the archives or tell us what you're considering. Have you found the Club discounts... includes Halfords. Jonathan

Shaun's servicing schedule. Do you have an Assembly Guide already? If not would you like one? Club "Get to Know Your 7" articles, and Myles' maintenance pages. Got enough tools? (As if that were possible.) And a garage? Then I'd suggest a "Get to Know Your 7" session. Jonathan

Finally, is there anyone out there dowing intelligent alternators that reduce the load when battery is charged or is that getting all a bit esoteric and pricey? I've always assumed that typical alternators do that. And that the power required to generate lots of charging current is much bigger than the mechanical loss. That' s not to say that the mechanical losses don't differ across alternators, bearings, belts etc, Anyone got figures for power requirements for our sorts of alternators and how they depend on speed and electrical output? Jonathan

Rimmer £4.79. Jonathan

Has to be "official" rather than equivalent? Caterham Parts? Halfords equivalent is HOF213. NB Club discount. Not sure how you'd know that cheap ones on eBay were genuine, as opposed to "genuine". Jonathan

What LesG says about the aesthetics: if you can't get a good match on the orange don't introduce another colour. Most photos reveal one thing: coloured hoses dominate the engine bay! Colours from SFS. Colours from Classic Silicone Hoses, with a range of blacks to make the choice even harder. :-) Remember to specify if you need heater bits, and which types of clamps you prefer. When I did mine the 10y old factory clamps were in excellent condition. Jonathan

I don't understand the bit in the first paragraph about the spacer: is it relevant? What happens if you attach the stay at the axle end first? Jonathan

Is this the same as your Guide? 5.5.2) Wide track The upright is located into the spherical joint on the lower wishbone. Prior to locating the upright, a spacer located in the polythene bag marked ‘front suspension’) must be inserted onto the bottom of the upright. The upright is secured using the special turned down nyloc nut supplied. Tighten the special nyloc nut to 55 Nm. The cycle wingstay locates on the upright. Remove and discard the 1/2” UNF nyloc nut and plain washer fitted to the inner end of the stub axle. Place cycle wingstay over the stub axle and secure using the 1/2” UNF nyloc provided. Do not tighten. NOTE If uprated front brake callipers have been specified ensure that the brake pads are installed before fitting the cycle wingstays. Pass the top wishbone ball-joint down through the top of the upright and through the wingstay. To fully engage the tapers of the wishbone and ball-joint, fit the M14 plain nut (6) from the fastener pack, apply pressure to the top of the ball-joint and tighten the plain nut. Once the ball-joint is locked in place remove the plain nut and replace it with the nyloc supplied on the ball-joint. Tighten the nyloc nut to 54 Nm. Tighten the inner stub axle nut to 82 Nm and ensure that the upright turns freely on the wishbones. Remove and retain the nyloc nut from the track rod end. Remove and discard the hard plastic boot protector from the track rod end taper and pass the tapered shaft down through the steering arm on the upright, secure with the nyloc nut. Tighten nyloc nut to 34 Nm. Your front suspension should now resemble that shown in Figure 34. (IVA covers not shown) Jonathan

Thanks, elie. That works. Mr Angry: I can't remember that stage of the build. What else is fixing the stays? Can you zoom out and show us? Jonathan

The top picture in the blog keeps changing... does that happen automatically? How can I get it to stay still long enough to have a proper look? Jonathan

There's a vast amount on the different methods in the archives, including the DVA-recommended Peugeot tool and a peg-in-the-sensor-hole method. Jonathan

You're going to get comments about only needing a screwdriver... but have you found the Irish video already? Jonathan

1635 is on there, but it's a bit like Where's Wally. That had me puzzled for a bit... very misleading photo. :-) Jonathan

Thanks, everyone. I bought the Lifeline one from Wiggle, mostly because it comes with a set of 1/4" bits, and most of mine are 3/8". It looks fine in its smart little case. Jonathan PS: What are Chain Reaction like? I buy most of my stuff from SJS, because they understand touring bikes. Second choice usually Wiggle. But I've bought quite a lot from Spa Cycles: very knowledgeable, good on tourers and old bikes, good prices and sales, but hopeless at communicating unless you're prepared to do everything by 'phone: recognise the pattern?

Find a nice place for the jack (mine's a factory scissor jack but this should work with others) on the horizontal section of aluminium in front of the heater. Drill through the base plate of the jack. Drill through the aluminium section. Put rubber well nuts in the section from above, and machine screws down through the holes in the jack into those nuts. ... and remember to use slotted screws rather than hex headed... ;-) Jack handle then attached with cable ties. Jonathan

Can't help with braided: what material and why would you prefer them? Silicone hoses are one of those nice products where nearly everyone is pleased with what they bought. I got mine from Classic Silicone Hoses. Jonathan

I'd check first that it always works when you short that wire to a good earth somewhere else. That will make sure that we're looking at the right bit. Is there a specific earth wire from the column? If so clean and reconnect. Can you take a photo of the contacts on the wheel? Jonathan

The text-only version. Jonathan