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Jonathan Kay

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Everything posted by Jonathan Kay

  1. It's a long time since I did it but IIRC you can get to all of them without removing anything. Some from the arch and some from the boot... ... and they are nylon. Some set screws into the ? Rivnuts and some screws and nuts. Jonathan
  2. It's called the "steering column lock tube" in the Assembly Guide. This post suggests they are "breakable bolts". And there's a comment here about removing the tack welds, but I'm not sure what is being described. Jonathan
  3. Yes, see discussions about stud length and offset. Jonathan
  4. What I do know is that, on an otherwise electrically healthy car, the transient voltage drop caused by a Brise starter (to 7.2V) was about 2V larger than the transient voltage drop caused by a Brise starter, and this was enough to trigger the problem every time. Thanks. But is there a negative missing? (Must be a pun somewhere there... ) Jonathan
  5. Suggested threshold using a multimeter, Andrew? Would doing the same starting test while jumped to another car running at, say, 3,000 rpm be another useful approach? Jonathan
  6. If you have to change something it might be worth going to the type that has undetectable play... but I can't remember which it is... Rapfix QR? Jonathan
  7. That's what I'd usually suggest... but was this the bug that needed an oscilloscope to spot the transient dip? Jonathan
  8. :-) http://www1.theladbible.com/images/content/5517153c75933.jpg ... other captions are available... Jonathan
  9. http://213-04.com/t.asp?id=192693&pn=3&ps=15 leads to: https://plus.google.com/photos/111396470046227966181/albums/5326848110145537361/5512040919822383538 https://plus.google.com/photos/111396470046227966181/albums/5326848110145537361/5512040927374324786 https://plus.google.com/photos/111396470046227966181/albums/5326848110145537361/5512040926834076226 ... but none of the three had any content when I looked. Jonathan (crossed with GJT's)
  10. I'd try and get the wiring diagram and restore it to full power... ... but even if you're not planning that it would be worth trying to power it to a comfortable position rather than doing it manually... Jonathan
  11. Are the actuators in place and Is the wiring intact up to the connector? Photos? Jonathan PS: Top Gear fan? Was that a 928? :-)
  12. I can't remember if we added a few short darts last time... but we never got it perfect. Jonathan
  13. If you're going to get some made can I suggest a right-angled triangle with the short edges bent into flaps rather than bent strip? That should save several grams for any given level of resistance to bending and vibration. But it still wouldn't be fully Chapmanised as some of the material along the hypotenuse would be understressed... ;-) Jonathan
  14. I'd go to a commercial powdercoater. But if you're considering that or similar... do you want to improve the light pattern and intensity? Jonathan
  15. Got it, and that sounds pragmatic. I'll put my money on non-recurrence. :-) Jonathan
  16. While you're waiting for the new switch... is there any residual problem or is it all fine now? Jonathan
  17. How do you know it's the spring that's stiff rather than any other moving bit? Jonathan
  18. Well done. It's good to know there's a solution. Jonathan
  19. On my 1998 K series... nothing. The system is disarmed by then. But I have no idea if any very recent 7 behaves differently... Jonathan
  20. Can you add photos that show the size and pattern of the splines of both bits? Jonathan
  21. I'm not at home and don't have all the diagrams with me... but I haven't found anything that fits that description. Could you pull a few others and tell us what they do? Jonathan
  22. I have this problem too. I just posted this thread -> http://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/fuse-identification-2010-superlight-r400-stack-dash but it does not appear in the "New and updated topics" tab for me. That's because the site's logic is that you must have read it because you wrote it. Jonathan PS: Still trying to work out your fuses.
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