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Jonathan Kay

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Everything posted by Jonathan Kay

  1. Got it. The fit should be very good, and I'd look for an external Torx Plus socket. And there are two families of those! Do you know the source of the callipers? Jonathan
  2. I don't understand the photo: is it with the socket on the bolt? Or is it a female end of the bolt? (AFAIK normal Torx male bits are identified with T. External fittings (male on bolt, female on tool) are identified with E.) Could you add a photo of your E12 tool? Jonathan
  3. Some lovely carbon bits courtesy of Daniel French: Carbon 12v Socket Holder / Fuse cover Carbon Knee Panels Carbon Pedal Box Cover Carbon Fuel Pipe CoverTotal saving of 590g. Jonathan
  4. Don't think I've heard this mentioned before. Presumably you've found this sort of thing:http://www.pemnet.com/images/design_info/torx_vs_torxplus.jpg Jonathan
  5. Do you want to upload the photos to this site or link to them on another server? Forum User Guide. Jonathan
  6. :-) "Knowledge is of two kinds. We know a subject ourselves, or we know where we can find information upon it." Jonathan
  7. Assembly Guide has: ... Lubricate the plastic speedometer drive with gearbox oil and fit into the rear left of the tailshaft housing, Fig 1 refers, such that the speedo spindle locates in the orifice. Ensure the surface of the speedo drive housing is free from oil and apply a thin coat of silicon sealant. Tap the speedo drive housing cover gently into place. Lubricate the small oil seal with gearbox oil and slide down over the speedo drive output shaft. Gently tap into place using a suitable sized socket as a drift. The brass 'top hat' should be located over the oil seal and held in place by the circlip, Fig 2 refers. Ensure that the circlip is fully located into the groove as access is restricted when the gearbox is in the car. Do not fit the sensor. ... Screw the speed sensor onto the 'top hat' ensuring that the drive cable slots into the speedo gear output shaft. Connect the sensor to the two pin plug in the vehicle wiring loom. Fit the grommet to the RH side of the tunnel from inside the cockpit. ... Which doesn't seem to help much. Can you grip the thread on B to get it started and on as far as possible, then press and angle either inwards or outwards to seize B on C as you finish it? Or use some sealant, as Ian did? Jonathan PS: I've (obviously) never done this. Mine is fully mechanical. But I'd describe yours as electronic from the gearbox. PPS: Nice diagram.
  8. Fascinating, thanks. So the not dropping to zero is not caused by damping in the gauge. Which leaves... internal snubbing in the sensor. I'm now way out of my depth, but could the experts advise if that could cause that effect if it was the feed that had an intermittent fault at the connector? Jonathan
  9. Glad it's solved. I would have expected the gauge to not read anything at all in this disconnected situation i.e. 0 but it was still reading something. I know the gauge takes feed from the rev counter but where is it getting this feed from - an ECU output? The gauge might have enough damping to tide the display over for a bit. But yours is fluctuating nicely... What does it read now if you disconnect while running, and how quickly does it drop? Have you got a wiring diagram already? Jonathan
  10. I can't recall ever seeing a tube as uniformly rusty as that. JosephClarke: Is this the same 7 that has the unidentified wire going to the brake calliper? What's its history? Jonathan
  11. I'm confused by "sensor". Is that an electrical sensor or the mechanical cable that goes all the way to the speedometer? Jonathan
  12. Firstly see this picture, this wire runs from somewhere in the loom I cant trace out along the OS wishbone and into the brake caliper, any ideas what it is I cant see it mentioned in the build manual? What colour? Sensor for speedometer sensor on wheel? Brake pad depth warning???... anything unusual about your brake set-up? ... the alternator to negative cable has a piece of hose pipe over it, any ideas why is heat a common problem for this cable? It's notorious for heat damage from the exhaust. But that looks as if it might have been added to avoid abrasion. Rust prevention and treatment for iron-based components... here you go. Jonathan PS: Apologies for orientation, the rotation flag is set on the image but whenever I upload it here it rotates it. Don't worry. I try to beat this into submission but don't always succeed. And can never resize...
  13. ... and then suspending the silencer from a tree by a rope attached to the bolt. i hope there are photos. Please. :-) Jonathan
  14. Is it the same as this sequence? Jonathan
  15. ... but as the Ah capacities are often much smaller than lead acid batteries... More, please. Is that for a given cranking current or something else? Thanks Jonathan
  16. Martin: Do you have access to Danfoss parts that's better than the source I found online? Thanks Jonathan
  17. More, more, keep them coming... :-) I had thought the fettling season was probably over! Jonathan
  18. From the Assembly Guide: ... 9.7) Radius arms Fit the radius arms to the upper chassis bush with the waisted section facing outboard, to provide maximum clearance to the brake calliper. NOTE On some series 3 chassis a lower fixing boss is supplied to give optimum suspension geometry when used only for race and track purposes. This setting is not recommended for road usage. ... Watt's link: 9.8.3) Link arms to chassis With the De Dion tube in place attach the forward link arm to the upper mounting bush on the chassis using caphead bolt (fastener pack 30R011A Item 2) pass from inside the cockpit, through the link arm. ... Jonathan
  19. Glad to hear that. Have you looked at "I'm a Scientist, Get me out of here..."? I did one round. But you'll have to read up on lightsabers. :-) Jonathan
  20. There may well be better wheels, but the ones you bought shouldn't have arrived buckled, and shouldn't deform under normal (!) use. And probably didn't and haven't for other users. How has the seller responded? Jonathan
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