Jonathan Kay

Yes, it's the horizontal bolt. I've never had a problem removing it. And mine wasn't aluminium. Have you started down the usual route of some penetrating oil (not WD40), a few hours' pause and then trying to turn it both ways? Let us know if that doesn't help. I don't have a 7 in front of me and don't know what the other bolt does. There's an enormous amount on bending in the archives. I like the two Martins' approaches in this thread. But I couldn't bend mine near enough and currently have a block on the pedal to get contact where I want it. There's also limited positioning possible by adjusting the cable. Jonathan

No leak before? Old plug refitted? Did you use a washer or any sealant?... Discussion of options. Jonathan

... theyre for the food industry and have a piece of metal in them so the can be found when dropped in the pork pie meat mix. Do they come in a silk purse? :-) Jonathan

Howard Leight MAX (link fixed). Suppliers on eBay UK, as John says. Jonathan

Most people seem to have front anti-roll bars. But it sounds as if you need a whole suspension plan. In that position I'd be talking to Simon at Meteor Motorsport. He'll probably be along soon. Jonathan

I think the most important rule is that the conditions in which you set the torque (or load or stretch or whatever) must match the conditions envisaged when that setting was specified... Jonathan PS: What's the destination of the Mini engine?

An addition: while the wheels are off it would be worth watching the brake action while someone else presses the pedal and pulls the lever. Jonathan

Agreed. How about getting it up on stands? Usual precautions. Wheels off and inspect the pads, shims, callipers etc and check for marks on the discs. Then wheels on and spin the wheels while someone else applies the brakes. Any catching or strange noises as they do that? Why did you have to fettle the de Dion tube? Jonathan

Which edition is that, please? I checked my first edition when I was searching after ECR didn't get an answer and it has those on p217 for "Vauxhall 16 valve" but on p224 it says "part numbers for the 1991 Vauxhall engined HPC model were not available at the time of writing". Thanks Jonathan

Brakes working fine and not pulling to one side? Handbrake readjusted and working? Check cable for contact again. Exhaust play OK and mountings tight?Jonathan PS: No spanners missing? :-)

OK now, Gordon? (I have a theory if you can't find it... ) Jonathan

You could make short Y pieces with appropriate termination that give you a new connection from one limb and recreate the switch connection from the other two: all the difficult stuff done on the bench. There are piggyback fuses that might help, but I think that what you are trying to do means you need the connections downstream of the switches. http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NTAwWDUwMA==/%24(KGrHqJHJBgE8e6)BkfHBPV4jQVPkQ~~60_12.JPG Jonathan

How many of you using a single long strap on each side are positively fixing it at each wheel, and how many passing it free-running through loops? The effects of failure are a bit different... Jonathan

Looking that way, isn't it? But again I say that not understanding the flows... if I were designing something like this I'd want a two-way switch! Have you got a convenient schematic you could share? Jonathan

However, I can't see any way in which the response time of the thermostat can explain how for example when driving at a steady speed on a fast road the temperature can run steadily well below thermostat temperature. Quick brain dump to stimulate yours, based more on physics than knowledge of car engines, nothing excluded, common sense set to OFF: The coolant is being cooled somewhere other than the radiator. The thermostat doesn't stop all flow through the radiator The temperature is being measured at an inappropriate place for comparison with the thermostat rating.Jonathan

Just the same. Let's see if they're visible to others. Jonathan

Welcome. I can't see those Dropbox images... are they set up for public access? Jonathan PS: Where are you?

Yes: those are the two fascinating questions. Jonathan PS: No bonus hole in my thermostat and the coolant does stay too cool.

Titanium! I don't understand it either, but there's enough out there, including mine, that clearly need it. It didn't before it was rebuilt and now it does... the only obvious difference being a lower temperature thermostat. There's at least one Member who has the blanking remotely controlled from the cockpit... Jonathan

No idea, but NGK say BCPR7E and that's confirmed by a couple of other vendors: 1, 2. Searching for BCPR7E in the archives only gives posts about K series. Jonathan

This issue is bubbling up in another thread. I'd much rather we continued it here to avoid the need for repetition... Jonathan

Thanks... but in the other thread, please. Otherwise everyone will have to repeat views... Jonathan

I'd start here, and then go back to the start of the thread and read the whole thing. No pressure. Jonathan

Have you found the advice from Alcester Racing 7s? How are you going to wind the pistons back? I've got a dedicated tool but others say it works well with needle-nosed pliers. I've ordered an Ezi-Bleed, as that seems to give me the best chance of spraying brake fluid all over the garage. There's a trick of not filling its reservoir. That's in the archives, but not the instructions. Jonathan

While you're waiting for the photo here's what the Assembly Guide says: THROTTLE CABLE FITMENT 71 Attach the throttle cable to the linkage on the throttle body by engaging the nipple in the throttle operating lever and then clipping its square shaped black plastic adjuster onto the adjacent bracket. This adjuster can be threaded up and down the cable outer to adjust the throttle pedal position. 72 Pass the other end of the throttle cable through the 22 mm hole in the front of the pedal box and clip the plastic seat into place. The inner cable is fed into the slot on the top of the pedal with the portion of cable protruding past the cable termination located through the hole. The top of the pedal should be gently squeezed with a pair of pliers to capture the cable and prevent it escaping. NOTE In order to obtain a preferred pedal height and achieve adequate cable tension it may be necessary to bend the top of the pedal prior to locating the cable. This is done by inserting a Phillips screwdriver into the top of the pedal, bracing the bottom of the pedal with a block of wood, and gently bending the top of the pedal so as to take up the slack in the cable. Finally use the adjusting mechanism at the throttle body end of the cable to remove any free play. Jonathan