Jonathan Kay

I'd start by disconnecting all the relevant connections including the earths, and then inspecting them, remaking where necessary, and cleaning. (Well, actually I wouldn't. I'd randomise and reconnect them blinded in order to eliminate non-random stopping as a source of bias. But I may well be alone in this.) Jonathan

I went to start the 7 today and once again, it would not start. It cranks really well, so it is not the battery, as it is on a conditioner. What's the battery voltage while cranking? Some seem to sound OK but the voltage drops too low for the ECU or something. Jonathan

Exactly/ I was about to say that you could calibrate yourself a bit more by practising on one that's easy to get at with and without the torque wrench, but you've already done it. And as a geek I hope you've worked out the correction factor for angular driving with a wobble bar... :-) Jonathan

I think that most assemblers either do it by feel without a torque wrench or use a wobble extension bar. Jonathan

Private Mail sent. Jonathan

You increase the ability to suck air in by fixing or replacing the breather. But AFAIK there are various different kinds of caps and breathers and valved tubes used on 7s and I don't know my way round them. I was about to ask about how the best way to test fuel pumps. I'd want to check the feed and earth and the sound they make... but what comes after that? Thanks Jonathan

Don't know about access but JonL has just got to the back of his. I'd ask him. NB think about adding USB sockets if you're fitting anything. You can get single units that include both. Jonathan

Prestone company web site. North American. All of the data sheets I've looked at so far say it's ethylene gycol with some additives. Jonathan

Yes, please. Jonathan

Recent description of various clutch-related noises. Jonathan

For our sort of applications I think the only relevant differences in practice are looks and longevity. Jonathan

Clutch OK and it worked normally after the problem... could that be a problem with the selector? There are reports of stiffness caused by insufficient lubrication, such as this. I'd be off to a specialist. Hope it's something cheap. Jonathan

There's a discussion of this somewhere in the archives but I can't remember all the issues that were brought up. Let us know if you can't find it. Jonathan

Sorry. Anyone know an assortments of small ones? Jonathan

We're using it! :-) Jonathan

Treat yourself to one of these: It's the second most effective time-saving accessory for 7 owners... :-) Jonathan PS: Where are you?

The new battery is an Avon 600 amp sealed lead acid, its a BBS own brand item. Have you got a link to that battery... I don't understand "600 amp"? (And faulty new batteries do occur.) Going flat with that usage I'd suspect excess drain at rest. But that's unusual on 7s. Do you have the immobiliser on? Anything unusual fitted or work done recently? What's the battery voltage at rest, during cranking and at 3,000rpm?Jonathan

If you had a shiny selection of sizes to hand you could go down one... ;-) Jonathan

What SM25T says: little and often. But i wouldn't worry at all about what you discovered. Note that point about the socket. Most clamps can be done up with a screwdriver or a socket tool. Using a screwdriver is notorious for slipping off and spearing it into the next available object, whether man-based or man-made. I do mine up less tight: screwdriver handle and wrist tight. But I do put a bit of silicone lubricant on the thread and where the band clamps the hose. Jonathan

Agree about looking carefully for failed hoses. Jonathan

I use prestone as it doesn't oxidise aluminium like the OAT coolants. What does that mean, please? Lots of 7 engines seem quite happy on the coolant recommended by the factory. And I'd assumed that the surface of waterways was oxidised in the same way as aluminium exposed to air. Is that not right? Thanks Jonathan

What sort of battery is it? I leave mine on a conditioning charger (not a traditional trickle charger). Others use battery isolating switches. Jonathan

... and taken the original to a radiator specialist who can't find any problems/leaks under pressure test even at 25psi. How can you pressure test the radiator while it's hot? Can the specialist do that? Could you face putting it back in? And how old was that radiator? I can't see how the zircotec coating is relevant. It should move the heat dissipation down to the exhaust and cat. I thought that insulation of the first part of the exhaust system inevitably meant that the metalwork inside was hotter than before. That might make the block in that area hotter. No idea if this happens or matters in practice. One solution may be the use of waterless coolant... but the obvious benefit would be lower system pressure against the downside of lower specific heat/heat removal. I've never seen any comparative measurements of pressure in the liquid. The lower pressure in the headspace should reduce it, but the increased viscosity might make it lower or higher at different points in the circuit, depending on the pump, the flow, the drag etc. That lower thermal capacity of the coolant means that at steady state and the same heat production and the same temperature on leaving the radiator the temperature on entering the radiator must be higher and/or the flow through the radiator must be greater. Jonathan

Have you tried emptying the local browser cache(s)? Jonathan

It's not quite right, because of that total recovery on slowing, but how about fuel starvation from marginally inadequate breathing into the tank? Can you reproduce it by stopping just after it happens then revving at rest? Usual test is to see what happens when you remove the filler cap: if affected you'll hear the rush of air in and it will then run normally. Jonathan