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Jonathan Kay

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Everything posted by Jonathan Kay

  1. Jonathan Kay
    I agree. The brake pad wear indicators I've seen don't have anything like that, just a couple of wires. How many ways in the cable? Jonathan
  2. Jonathan Kay
    Morning, Ian. There's obviously a lot of interest in this modification. It would be great if you could write a Guide with all the bits and sources and threads and photos. I think it's all in the forums already. Jonathan
  3. Jonathan Kay
    I'd go for a Dremelled slot first. And you can get a flexible shaft. It's not essential to make a full width slot to get purchase. http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NTAwWDUwMA==/z/LZsAAOxyGwNTF0kB/%24_35.JPG?set_id=880000500F Can you wiggle the whole thing to improve access? Experts weld something on or drill and use extractors etc... Jonathan
  4. Jonathan Kay
    Which of the two holes in the side panel are to be used for the front radius arm mounting? There used to be a note on that in the Guide. It depends: Watts linkage? Road or track use or both?Also, the left hand rear mount of the a-frame seems to have been welded on slightly wonky, such that I can't get a socket onto the nut. Is this something I could try and twist to re-align, or might I require a new a-frame? Can you add a photo of it on a flat surface? Jonathan
  5. Jonathan Kay
    Best chance might be a Member's garage, and I'd talk to Redline and email Car Builder Solutions. Jonathan
  6. Jonathan Kay
    Are you sure all the lamps are showing the same brilliance when the hazards are operating as, if the above is right, I would expect one of them to be dimmer than the others. Ah. I'd forgotten that point. What model/year is your car as the wiring may vary between models? 1400 K 1994. I've sent the standard K series Assembly Guide and that scanned 1400 K wiring diagram. Jonathan
  7. Jonathan Kay
    Did you swop the indicator switch connections as a test? (As well as the switch and the flasher unit it could be a problem in the wiring. The speed of flashing of conventional flasher units depends on the resistive load. That's why they go quicker when a bulb fails and why some don't work with LEDs. It's just easier to attack the switch and flasher unit than the wiring as long as you know that they all work with the hazard warning switch closed.) Jonathan
  8. Jonathan Kay
    Is the dash mounted switch something that can be bought from any motor factors or only Caterham? You can get one with the same function very easily. If you want the appearance to match you can get it from Caterham and others. No idea where the relay/flasher unit sits - if this was u/s surely the hazards wouldn't work? Don't know: there might be internal faults that produce this pattern of failure. Changing the unit isn't difficult or expensive. Recommended multimeter (because you're worth it): I find it helpful to have an additional pair of leads with little croc clips. Send me a Private Mail with your email address and the engine and dash type if you'd like the diagram. Jonathan
  9. Jonathan Kay
    I'd go for the indicator switch or the relay/flasher unit. Probably easiest first steps are: Cycle the indicator switch and the hazard warning light switch several times and see if it gets better Check the connections at the indicator switch: wiggle, disconnect, clean and reconnect and see if it gets better. Swop the L and R outputs on the switch and see if the fault changes side.Jonathan PS: Do you have a wiring diagram and a multimeter?
  10. Jonathan Kay
    I can only help with part of 3, and even this may not be appropriate for your diff: There often isn't a drain plug. But you can suck it out, easier when warm. Maintenance notes for this (and other common tasks) from Alcester Racing 7s.Jonathan
  11. Jonathan Kay
    Is access to the damaged heads better now than it will be in the future? And the one that only you can answer... will you be happy knowing that the heads are damaged? (Do you know the story of the shim in Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance?) Jonathan
  12. Jonathan Kay
    Yes, I've just downloaded a copy following Peter's advice. ... Caterham don't repeat the common pieces accurately... Yes, not exactly a textbook example of knowledge management. Fortunately we have each other. :-) Jonathan
  13. Jonathan Kay
    ScottR400D: Private Mail sent. Jonathan
  14. Jonathan Kay
    It might be possible to deduce some from the "standard" colours. Do any of the wires have secondary colours? Have you found the fuel level sender wire? Where's the speedometer sender on the car?Jonathan PS: Does your Assembly Guide mention that box at all? if so please can I have a copy?
  15. Jonathan Kay
    All I know is that if it had been really easy yesterday, it would, contrarily, have not been half as much fun. Oh, yes. Jonathan
  16. Jonathan Kay
    I was just about to ask: Saturday evening seemed like a good time. :-) That could be from a previous abortive attempt at wiring the shift lights. i did notice the aces shift light reads a slightly lower rpm than the tacho indicates. Is this common? There are known issues about getting the right settings for the number of cylinders and ignition system, but I haven't heard of small factors, rather than eg 2:1. IIRC the factory fitted ones need to go back to be tweaked but the aftermarket ones are DIY. Jonathan
  17. Jonathan Kay
    Those colours sound a bit strange. Do you have a separate starter button? Send me a Private Mail with your email address and the engine, dash type and year if you want the full diagram. Jonathan PS: There's a recent thread about faults with the lock, and how to change it.
  18. Jonathan Kay
    Welcome. What size wheels? Jonathan PS: Where are you?
  19. Jonathan Kay
    I'd like to put a fill hole in the lid and have seen a couple of posts where a threaded boss or nut has been welded on. Is that really necessary or would a hole with a blanking grommet in achieve the same? The lid has a small breather hole in anyway. If you fill from the top how are you thinking of getting the level right? Dipstick or existing side orifice? Jonathan
  20. Jonathan Kay
    Could you add a photo of the cap and those three wires? Jonathan
  21. Jonathan Kay
    "COMMONLY USED COLOUR CODES FOR BRITISH CAR WIRING" Jonathan
  22. Jonathan Kay
    Does it have a table of settings at the end of that chapter? Otherwise try "SECTION 18* - START UP PROCEDURE AND FINAL CHECKS ": that might have the torque setting and the suggested washers. If that doesn't have them either please tell me which model, engine and year and I'll send you the Guides I've got. Jonathan * Section number might differ between versions.
  23. Jonathan Kay
    I've never seen a diagram than does that, and they're now even more schematic than they used to be. Have you got the table of "standard" wiring colours as well as the Assembly Guide? Looks like its not firing at all on 1 & 4. Is that from the appearance of the plugs? Have the tops of the plugs got wet? Any chance the leads have been swapped? There's a known problem with interference on crankshaft sensors, but I can't remember which engines it affects... should be in the archives.HT testing kit is available, and one Member has some. Jonathan
  24. Jonathan Kay
    Assembly Guide has 54Nm for all rear shock absorber bolts. (Would you like a copy?) Sean's Bolt List has 54Nm for the upper and doesn't say for the lower. Jonathan
  25. Jonathan Kay
    Thanks Jonathan
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