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Jonathan Kay

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Everything posted by Jonathan Kay

  1. ... electronic... Driven from the gearbox or a wheel? Some improvement with a new earth wire to the ignition lock. Have you got the Workshop Notice about this? Jonathan
  2. Thank you very much. Got it. I was wondering how that worked when you were using a device to monitor itself. Jonathan
  3. Is this normal ? What type of immobiliser and control do you have? Not on my 1998 Rover type. Once to arm, once to disarm. But four times* to reset. Would you like the factory instructions? Jonathan * At the full moon while dancing widdershins.
  4. You might catch more Members' eyes if you put something like "Brise Starter" or even more detail in the Subject line. At the moment you have "For Sale" so that's all that shows in the summary pages. You can change this by editing the original post. Good luck Jonathan
  5. Is it obvious from the display if the whole ECU goes down for a short time because of loss of power? Jonathan
  6. From the Assembly Guide, my bold bits: "The clutch cable is fitted with adjusters at both ends so that it can be adjusted at both the bell-housing and pedal box. Set the pedal box end so that a minimum length of outer cable protrudes past the locating bush into the pedal box then adjust at the bell-housing end until a satisfactory clutch pedal position is achieved (4 threads showing through the yellow bush is a good starting point). The clutch 'bite' point should be set according to personal preference ensuring that it is not adjusted so as to prevent the clutch from fully engaging or disengaging." Jonathan
  7. All of the following while getting someone else to work the pedal up and down: You might get a bit of localisation by using a stethoscope at the points of interest. Yes, have a look in the pedal box. Do you know the point about adjusting the cable at that end to get the optimal angle of action? If that doesn't show anything try disconnecting the cable at the clutch end and feeling the action at the cable and inspecting the bit that gets exposed.Jonathan
  8. If you can't find any how about a 3D printing run? Jonathan
  9. Just done a search on starter motors and there seems to be issues with the Brise causing the volts to drop to 5.2 volts. Revilla did the evaluation and shows the graphs from an oscilloscope. This was causing the ECU all sorts of problems. That's why I asked. The drop was too transient to show on an ordinary meter. But I'd still recommend doing that test anyway. It later appeared that the same design of starter was sold under other brand names. Jonathan
  10. This thread has "Alternative non-HPC race car​". Rees has "Alternative (denotes non-HPC/Clubman/race car)". Jonathan
  11. Only ever road use or a few trackdays as well? How high a priority is performance in the wet? What's your current clearance under the sump and how low would you go? Jonathan (14", A021Rs as soon as I heard they were going)
  12. Was that "Alternative" from the FAQ? Jonathan
  13. Loctite 243 unless there's a special reason to use something else. Jonathan
  14. He says that if the cranking speed is irregular, the the ECU is re-setting itself all the time and does not give the engine a spark. Does this sound possible ? It has a new battery fitted and seems to crank well. I haven't heard that specifically but it's very close to the known problem of the voltage drop during cranking causing problems for the ECU. Has anyone suggested measuring the battery and fuel pump voltage during cranking? ;-) Hope you're sorted soon. Jonathan
  15. Are you testing for a spark by holding the end of the plug near the block? ... when the a spark is induced by scratching the terminal no spark is transmitted to the plug. Where's the earth (that would be through the distributor in a traditional set-up) in that rig? Have you tested for +12V at the coil LT positive terminal? Have you checked and tested the earth from the block and the ECU/ test rig? Measure the coil internal resistance (even though you've swapped for a good one). (That page also shows how to test the coil LT negative but I'd use a meter rather than a test lamp.)It's hard to test the HT side directly. One Member has the kit. But with a month to go I'd be considering a professional auto electrician. Jonathan
  16. I'm sure it's possible to reduce the image size simply, but I don't know how either... Jonathan
  17. Neat. Suitable musical accompaniment? Other than the obvious... :-) Jonathan
  18. http://www.emeraldm3d.com/articles/emr-adj-length-intake/ Good reading to explain the importance of intake trumpet length and effects on engine performance. Not convinced by some of the physics but the experiments and results are fascinating. Thanks for posting. Jonathan
  19. Had a go at uploading a photo from my own computer but will not allow me as the file size was too large. What OS is the computer running? Jonathan
  20. Does anyone know what the thread pitch and size of the tie rod is? Here (but I don't know if it's the same on all 7s). Jonathan
  21. If it comes to replacement I've got an unused pair. From the factory in 1998, similar to those in the picture but the amber part is symmetrical. http://caterhamparts.co.uk/img/p/4922-5300-large.jpg Jonathan
  22. Nigel: is the offending lamp the indicator under the headlamp, or a repeater on the wing or side? Jonathan
  23. So something in the bulb holder it's self had broken and was not making contact with the bulb... Yes. I've had two of those (in other lamps) on the 7, and several others, including, for some reason, a disproportionately high number on tow boards. 99% it's a bad earth on the wingstay. Could be. Could be no contact from bulbholder to bulb, or internal discontinuity in wire, although those are pretty rare. But why speculate*? See post #2. Jonathan * I had a faint hope that the derivation might be through a little reflector, but it isn't. :-(
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