Jump to content
Click here if you are having website access problems ×

Jonathan Kay

Member
  • Posts

    40,915
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    16

Everything posted by Jonathan Kay

  1. Please can someone say how Caterham are currently fitting reversing light switches on new Mazda boxes: 1 Does the switch have two terminals? 2 Is it switching earth or live? Thanks Jonathan
  2. AMENDED: I've asked in another thread how Caterham are now wiring these. Once you've found the right connectors: The reverse light switch usually connects the earth side of the reversing light circuit. If there are two terminals then selecting reverse connects them together; if there's only one then it connects that terminal to earth through the body of the gearbox. It doesn't matter which way they're connected from the point of view of that circuit. You can check which of the two wires in the loom is connected to earth by testing continuity with a multimeter. Is that Green/Black or Green/Brown? I'm a bit concerned about these colours in an earth-switched circuit. There's a particular issue with the earth connections on the Caterham LED integrated rear lamp unit. What have you got? Do you have a wiring diagram for the car? Please let me know if you need a copy. Jonathan
  3. Is this something to do with models, Bluetooth generations etc? Which versions are/were you using, please? Jonathan
  4. Sorry: I was labouring on Saturday evening, otherwise I'd have been more expansive! : - ) Jonathan
  5. If there's any problem matching relays/flashers/etc by part number: 1 The terminal numbers (30, 85, 87a etc) are internationally standardised, originally Bosch but now DIN 72552. 2 The circuit diagram on the new has to be close enough to the old. (Watch out for diodes.) 3 The current rating has to be adequate. 4 The pins have to fit the base! : - ) Jonathan
  6. Just one precaution: older units won't work properly with LED indicators. (There isn't enough load.) Apart from that they're highly standardised and should be available from Halfords or a local factor. ... Check for signs of overheating on the old unit and the base. Jonathan
  7. Etiquette of auction listings in "For Sale" This has come up in a specific sale, eBay in this instance. 1 AFAIK there isn't relevant guidance. 2 It doesn't bother me. 3 What are others' concerns? Thanks Jonathan
  8. It's worth recording these as text so that they can be found in the future. I think that those are: 0 258 010 319 which is almost a Bosch part number and 0 258 006 599/600 which are Bosch part numbers. Jonathan
  9. The one I was thinking of made it easy to dip and fill. Jonathan
  10. On my S3 1800K you can access the fasteners on the top plate from the engine bay but it's very tight. Best to borrow some small hands IIRC. Jonathan
  11. Points well made about carefully considering a hole in the tunnel, and the importance of the type of reversing wrench... IT WAS ME THAT DIDN'T KNOW THE LATTER UNTIL IT WAS TOO LATE! But once you have the wrench and the correct length of hex key they work fine. Jonathan PS: The Alcester Racing Sevens maintenance notes are on the Wayback Machine, and I'll discuss them with the Technical Documents group as soon as we have some responses on the first tranche... PPS: There used to be a rather elegant bright metal top plate with an access hole but I think that it was discontinued.
  12. Welcome back. Continuing ECR's thoughts, and on the simple causes: disconnect the cable from the throttle linkage and from the pedal. And then test the freedom of movement of each bit. Jonathan
  13. Congratulations. There's a recent thread about distinguishing Supersports. Could the tool do this? Or is that already solved by that table of ECUs? Thanks Jonathan
  14. Sorry... and electronic: https://www.burtonpower.com/revotec-electronic-speedo-adaptor-ford-gearbox-revt9-a.html https://www.burtonpower.com/ford-electronic-speedo-sensor-revfss.html Jonathan
  15. Burton Power have some mechanical drives: https://www.burtonpower.com/90-degree-speedo-drive-adaptor-gbt9560.html Jonathan
  16. All incandescent lamps, not LED? Do you mean that the 12V at the live connector on the bulb holder drops to nothing? Does the side light on the same side stop working when you do this? Does the high beam on the other side stop working when when you do this? I'd start by mocking up the circuit with the bulb out of the holder so that you know that the switches and feed and bulbs are OK. And then investigate what's happening to the live and earth sides at the holder when you insert the bulb. Jonathan
  17. Yes, rear underside of the gearbox. It might have either one or two terminals. NB the circuit works by switching the earth side at the switch in the gearbox. So you need to check whether the switch is connected and whether the switch connects internally when reverse is selected: single terminal to earth, or two terminals to each other. Lamp is incandescent, not LED? The feed to the lamp is not switched, and should be LIVE whenever the ignition or sidelights are ON (I can't remember which). So check that, and once you know that it's live then connect a temporary earth to the lamp unit as a test. Jonathan
  18. Do you have the appropriate wiring diagrams? Please let me know if you need any. And do you have a multimeter and know how how to use the voltage range and the continuity testing? Jonathan
  19. Would you like to upload them here or link to them on another server? Both approaches work fine. Jonathan
  20. Electrical spec for 71167: TT6811-03 CATERHAM 1/8 NPTF 1158-44 ohms B 71167 https://www.smiths-instruments.co.uk/products/sender-units-temperature-senders/ Jonathan
  21. I have the Caterham wiring diagrams for Stack dashes and some correspondence with 213 Performance about the set-up. if you'd like copies please send me a Private Message with your email address. Jonathan
  22. I don't know, but have you tried this? https://www.myrouteapp.com/en/social/group/3382 Jonathan
×
×
  • Create New...