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Jonathan Kay

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Everything posted by Jonathan Kay

  1. Had a go at uploading a photo from my own computer but will not allow me as the file size was too large. What OS is the computer running? Jonathan
  2. Does anyone know what the thread pitch and size of the tie rod is? Here (but I don't know if it's the same on all 7s). Jonathan
  3. If it comes to replacement I've got an unused pair. From the factory in 1998, similar to those in the picture but the amber part is symmetrical. http://caterhamparts.co.uk/img/p/4922-5300-large.jpg Jonathan
  4. Nigel: is the offending lamp the indicator under the headlamp, or a repeater on the wing or side? Jonathan
  5. So something in the bulb holder it's self had broken and was not making contact with the bulb... Yes. I've had two of those (in other lamps) on the 7, and several others, including, for some reason, a disproportionately high number on tow boards. 99% it's a bad earth on the wingstay. Could be. Could be no contact from bulbholder to bulb, or internal discontinuity in wire, although those are pretty rare. But why speculate*? See post #2. Jonathan * I had a faint hope that the derivation might be through a little reflector, but it isn't. :-(
  6. Well done. What year is yours, please? (I'm sure this will affect someone else at some point.) I think you're going to have see what happens, but if it gets worse or starts baulking I'd get it looked at asap. Jonathan
  7. Interesting calculation for battery drain. Agreed. You need to check if that socket is isolated by the "master" switch (or wired directly to the battery). ... and if it is don't expect a charger connected to the socket to do anything with the master switch off! ;-) Jonathan
  8. I (or rather Ian) can help with the photo. Do you want to upload it here or link to it on another server? Both are possible. Forum User Guide Jonathan
  9. Thanks, Andy. Chris: 3 tubes? Any bags? Jonathan
  10. Do you have or want a battery master switch? That socket is probably wired directly to the battery (hopefully with a fuse) so it doesn't know if the ignition is on or off. You can choose to wire it any way you want. The drain is probably tiny, but some 7s are marginal on battery capacity with long periods of disuse, and I suppose it could tip the balance. I don't think there's a fire risk. Yes, a socket wired that way is fine for charging (check the fuse rating) but you want a conditioning charger not a traditional trickle charger if it's going to be connected for long periods. If it does live on a charger the drain from the light is irrelevant. Jonathan
  11. Wind deflectors: you have Private Mail. Jonathan
  12. How do you do that? Is there access through the gear change hole in the tunnel for spanners and for the mechanism to be withdrawn? See post #2. Jonathan
  13. In that case I'd be looking hard at the connection of both ends of that final earth wire. Jonathan
  14. Are polycarbonate windscreens legal for road use in the UK? A vendor says not. Jonathan
  15. The first test should be feasible at the point of contact with the bulb... What connectors can you find? Should be the black wires. Jonathan
  16. Can you add a photo from the front showing the angle of the track rods? Typically 9mm, but also reports of 6mm. Jonathan
  17. All other lights OK? Check continuity of the other terminal in the bulb holder to a good earth. Rig a temporary wire from a good earth to that terminal and check that the bulb then illuminates.Once those confirm the problem work backwards from that terminal through its connection to the wire, then any connectors and so on. Jonathan
  18. Cheapest to fix cause is probably stiction in the shift lever bearing. You can get to it from above. Grease might help, but here are MOCA2CV's notes on replacing it. Jonathan
  19. What sump clearance do you want? Discussion from 2013. Similar to what Dave J says, but I went with: "Traditional minimum is a free-rolling Coke can: 66mm diameter. Common recommendation for road cars is ≥ 80mm." Jonathan
  20. DIY hints, but this isn't the thread I was looking for. ... is that because it has to be a heated screen for MOT ? Someone here suggested that recently, but I don't know. Possibly has to be heated because there isn't a demist function. The only other reason I can think of is that it's plastic rather than glass. I think that some racers use polycarbonate. And I have seen suggestions to use acrylic, but that sounds like a very bad idea. Have you got a link for that one at £95? Jonathan
  21. I don't think there's anything wrong with the charging system. Are you going to change the battery? (If it's leaked I'd wash down the tray and everything below with lots of water, and scrub off any white crud. Some people like to use sodium bicarbonate to neutralise the acid, but I can't see the point.) 14.28 V during cranking would be unusual... how quickly does that meter respond? Can't explain the erratic voltage that was seen, unless it was a bad connection that you've now fixed. Jonathan
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