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Jonathan Kay

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Everything posted by Jonathan Kay

  1. Neat. Total cost with the commercial bracket so we can calculate moolah/mass and add it to the list of available savings? Anyway, all in 1kg lighter, and I know I'm mad but can perceive the engine is freer running when revving, but surely a distributor can't cause that much drag... ? Only one way to find out if the impression is accurate... ;-) Jonathan
  2. Have you found the two similar stories in the archives? Tom Gaval: 1, 2, 3 ​TomiamJonathan PS: I've had the car a couple of months and have not noticed any leeks under road drving conditions. You're going to regret that! :-)
  3. Same as the traditional doctor's definition of "alcoholic"? Mine's a 1998... There's been discussion of an unconnected engine warning light on Duratecs (and possibly others) and there's something about moisture detection! (I don't think these are relevant to your problem.) Jonathan PS: Don't leave the region without trying the cider.
  4. Is the red warning light at bottom right of rev counter next to indicator warning. Comes on with the ignition and goes off as soon as it fires? Jonathan PS: I don't think it's relevant but there is an orphan warning light on some modern 7s.
  5. Same 19mm across flats, just to fool us. Was the old size 3/4" across flats, and that was the coincidence of 3/4" and 19mm... they're only about 0.05mm different? Jonathan
  6. ... mines due its first MOT next month... Get the brakes hot Get the exhaust hot Ask them to grease the prop shaft joints while it's up?Jonathan
  7. Could be. Belt intact? What's the deflection on the longest run of the belt when you press with one finger? All bolts tight and alternator unmoveable? Do you have jump leads already?Jonathan
  8. Photos updated in first post. Thanks, Ian. Jonathan
  9. Please can I have it? Private Mail sent. Thanks Jonathan
  10. Edited: Thread changed in 2003. It rattles around in the first few threads and then starts going tight way before it should. Is the hole tapered? Jonathan
  11. I have followed all the recent techtalk threads and undertaken there suggestions to no avail. That includes the Factory Notice change to the wiring and the adjustment of the gap? Can you see the indicator light flashing as you turn the wheel by hand? Sender unit is a Danfoss MBS 1350 (temp/pressure/switched point unit) The first thing I'd do is measure the resistance of the warning light circuit on the sender at the engine speeds of interest, and check that it's behaving in the same way as the warning light. But there's something clever about the electronics of those Danfoss widgets that might complicate that... snubbing! Jonathan
  12. Well done. Great to see those data. Jonathan
  13. The battery voltage during cranking is far too low. Can you get another vehicle alongside and jump the batteries with fat leads and good contacts? Then take the other engine to 3,000 rpm and repeat that measurement. Jonathan
  14. Thanks. I'll check what I need when I get home. Jonathan
  15. What diameter hole would that fit, please? Thanks Jonathan
  16. If there is it's probably a lack of connection. ;-) Speedometer: which dash and is the sensor on the gearbox or a wheel? (There's a factory notice on improving the earth, and a technique for adjusting the gap.) Oil pressure warning light: have you found the sender, and do you have a multimeter? Jonathan
  17. Why would a compressor take more power to start it than to keep it running? Has it got a big flywheel? If so is it accessible? Thanks Jonathan
  18. I don't think so... and the windows might fall out. Jonathan
  19. They're passing more current than the contacts like. Could reduce the current with a relay... or fit LEDs... or think of the switches as consumable... Jonathan
  20. ... in practical terms it also allows for advanced ignition which gives a longer more complete burn, releasing more energy? Do you mean at the time an engine is designed or dynamically during operation? Jonathan
  21. My 1800 K behaved the same way... until it was rebuilt. The only difference on paper is a lower temperature thermostat. Jonathan
  22. Can the wires on the fan switch causes the motor to blow the wrong way ? Surely the wiring to the motor being wired incorrectly would cause this ? "No" and "Agreed". If that's a response to #7 I couldn't remember how it's connected, but both options were about the feed to the fan motor. Jonathan
  23. I tried to post a photo but that has beaten me too. Do you want to upload the image or link to it on another server? Forum User Guide. Let us know where you get stuck. Jonathan
  24. ... where is the fan sender and how do I short it? The widget in the radiator with a wire connected to it. Have a look and tell us what colour wires you find. (But you're going to mimic the sender closing the circuit as it gets hot.) Testing the fan: Presumably this is as simple as the fan should be blowing air from the rad into the engine bay and NOT back through the radiator? Yes. Jonathan
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