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Jonathan Kay

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Everything posted by Jonathan Kay

  1. Good point about the steering column. Wiggle all the exhaust joints and brackets? Loosen them one at a time and see if it affects the vibration? Ditto engine and gearbox mounts? Take up thy stethoscope? Jonathan
  2. Was there a vote on that one... or was it Regal Prerogative? Jonathan
  3. If the engine is touching the chassis ..... that's not right !!! I was going to suggest going over all the engine and gearbox mounts, but this is more important. Where does it touch? Jonathan
  4. Calibrating the speedo. I was heading the blat chain down the M1 in a 50 zone and I had complaints from the others later that I was only doing 40! How do I recalibrate the dial please? But it reads consistently... no variation at constant speed? Two parts to this: Getting the correction right I'd check the observed reading against the values from a GPS device* at the speeds of interest to get a correction factor. Changing the setting Is it like the type described here? John Vine published a list of factors but the links are broken. I'd use a correction factor from your current value but you could also start with an absolute value like those. Jonathan * Not against fellow-travellers!
  5. That's OK... it's not dark yet. Swap one side back and add a photo? Straight on and at an angle? Please Jonathan
  6. That's why I worded it the other way round! ;-) Jonathan
  7. There's a lot on different options in the archives, with some photos for comparison. You can check for illegality by absence of E markings: what do these have? I wouldn't expect any problems with relays or fuses with LED side and tail lights. For indicators there's a cheap agnostic relay which seems to work fine. Please could anyone who tries different bulbs or lamps take photos of before and after, or with one side replaced? Jonathan
  8. There are lots of products branded as "Mr Sheen" and some of the cleaners contain aliphatics. What are you using? Jonathan
  9. Work the hazard warning light switch on and off a few times, and then the same for both indicator switches. Has that helped? Do you have a multimeter and a wiring diagram?I had a new immobiliser fitted yesterday. Coincidence? Possibly. Jonathan (Crossed with Ian's)
  10. Lots of possible causes, as you're probably about to discover. What's the voltage across the battery: Engine off Minimum during cranking At 3,000 rpm?Then disconnect, clean, inspect and reconnect all the cables to the starter, thick and thin, everything at both battery terminals, and the engine earths. Jonathan
  11. Having seen the photo I'm still not sure about what's causing the lamp to come on, but the fixing sequence could now become something like: Move the alternator connections to allow rerouting of the cables. Replace the cooked fat cables. Test to see if the fault has disappeared If it hasn't then back to investigating the circuit for the warning lamp.Jonathan
  12. If these (1, 2) are describing the same process then not too hard. But well within the ability of a local repairer: no need to send it away. Before and after photos, please. Jonathan
  13. All gone. All posted. There'll be another batch if I get enough requests. Jonathan
  14. The symptoms suggest a problem with the lamp circuit or the alternator rather than the main charging cables. Is there anything unusual about your set-up? I'd be looking at rerouting the cables, treating them as consumables, fitting some suitable for higher temperatures and/or heat shields before applying the Manchester screwdriver.Jonathan
  15. Alternator - they believe the problem was caused by the foremost exhaust primary being mm's from the cable exiting the Alt' and that over time the cable has cooked and become brittle. The symptoms as reported are caused by a gap in the cooked cable opening under engine vibration at high RPMs. Plausible? (their proposed solution is to tw4t the primary with a hammer to dent it away from the the replacement cable...) Any better ideas? Please let that be a joke... IIRC it never had any problems with charging. Was that comment specifically about the thin wire from the alternator to the warning lamp, or do the thick ones also look as if they are or might be cooked? Jonathan
  16. There are two in the various versions of the Assembly Guide. Please send me a Private Mail with your email address if you'd like them. Jonathan
  17. That's often said* about ethanol, which is now in various concentrations in quite a lot of "petrol" in quite a lot of countries. But methanol can damage rubber (and things like rubber). Jonathan * I once tried to track down what's actually known about ethanol concentration and various current "rubbers" but failed.
  18. Plexus Plastic Cleaner. I've found a data sheet, but of course it might not apply because the same product name can be used for different formulations. That data sheet says it contains aliphatics, so I wouldn't use it unless the manufacturer of the helmet says it's OK. Jonathan
  19. Enjoyed it so far. Hope we're going to get "Living with... " and "Time for some changes... ". :-) Jonathan
  20. The ignition warning light was flickering feebly on and off all the time. Investigated today to discover the problem was caused by dirty contacts in the alternator plug. Makes sense. All dirty/poor or just the connection to the lamp? Did it have a rubber cover?Jonathan
  21. "I seem to remember", IIRC. ;-) Jonathan
  22. The big issue is not using a solvent (or anything else) that causes damage: usual platitude about only being issued with one head. Have you got the manufacturers' instructions already? You're probably going to end up with water, detergent, a microfibre cloth and a toothbrush. Jonathan
  23. What oil are you using, and what's the level? Dry or wet sump? Does it come up nicely when it's blipped? Jonathan
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