Jonathan Kay

How long does it take to recover after the symptoms have appeared? Have you tried Paul's suggestion of actively cooling the distributor when it happens? Can you replicate it in the garage? If so how about a squirt of ether when it's struggling? Immediate improvement might support fuel starvation as the cause. Shortage of fuel or smoke? How about getting an HT tester? Usual choice of methods. Unfortunately there isn't one in the Register... yet.Jonathan

If you need to speak to Stack do it Very Quickly. I received notice that they are withdrawing from UK/Europe at the end of the month and they have nothing in place to effect ongoing repairs at this time. That's worrying. What documentation does anyone have on the fitting instructions? Has anyone got an internal circuit diagram? Has anyone ever had one repaired elsewhere? (JDO says that he doesn't do DIGITAL DISPLAYS.)Thanks Jonathan

On that basis I can see one consistently coloured wire (WB - so white with black) which runs from the ECU to the Stack connector; it starts at the ECU as WB72 and runs from Pin 34 on the ECU connector through the engine-harness/body-harness connector where it continues as WB180 to the ACES take-off, with a further extension as WB155 going to Pin A of the Stack conector. So - if (i) the R400 and R500 wiring fundametals are identical, and if (ii) my interpretation of the wiring diagram is correct, then I need to test for continuity from ECU pin 34 through to Stack connector pin A. I can't confirm that but what I'd try quite early on is disconnecting (what you think is) the engine speed signal to the ACES unit. In the other problem that disconnection made the tachometer work normally and suggested the fault was in or near the ACES unit. Jonathan

Deleted

Both cables, please. Jonathan

How's it going? Jonathan

I've got a recent Assembly Guide with a schematic diagram for a 19 pin round connector on the main chassis harness for a Stack dash. I can't be sure if it's right for your model. Send me a Private Mail with your email address if you'd like a copy. There was a recent problem that was a bit similar. Disconnecting the engine speed signal from the tachometer to the ACES unit helped to track it down. Jonathan

Do you think the conductor is damaged? You might be able to detect some crepitus on flexing. If you aren't sure take it off and strip a bit to get a good look. (It will be easy to reinsulate: I'd probably use tape and then heatshrink sleeving if you can get it over the connector.) Jonathan

Those voltages look OK. Also, its worth re-highlighting that when the car is in the 'fault state', and revving at 3,000 Rpm the mult-meter shows the volts across the battery actually decreasing. What voltage have you seen? And does the warning light come on (assuming it works normally when starting)? It would be interesting to measure the voltage at the live terminal of the alternator at the same time that it's low at the battery. However, there is a cable that goes from the alternator to the starter motor and there appears to be a kinkcrack just below where it attaches to the alternator, I'll post a picture shortly. I was trying to disconnect it from the alternator to check further but there is a silicon 'blob' on top of the nut and I'm struggling to undo the nut without ripping the silicon 'blob' from the nut. Definitely needs investigating. A thick cable? It's often wired that way to save a run on the high current live side. I'd get it off if you can't get a look all the way round it in situ. The silicone may be an attempt at waterproofing or a bodge for a bad connection. Remove it so that you can have a good look at the wire and connections. Jonathan

Can someone let me know the Ford part number for the sensor please. Previous discussion, with part numbers. Viage sejuro. Jonathan

Agreed. The C-TEK and similar chargers are conditioning chargers that measure what's going on and charge accordingly. Traditional cheap trickle chargers (as inherited from fathers' garages etc) don't and I wouldn't recommend their routine use on small Sevenesque batteries As mentioned earlier - the immobilizer will drain the battery in around 6-7 days. This seems to be very variable between 7s. I've just tested mine again and it was fine at 14 days on a not very new PVR25 with the immobiliser on. But the 7 (and the Vespa) normally live on conditioning chargers. Jonathan PS: Just the one tucked away in there for you, Andrew. :-)

Edited: Crossed with #2 and #3. There's a discussion in the archives and IIRC the conclusions were that it's hard if not impossible to do it yourself, and that starting with the closest you can find and modifying it may be easier/ quicker/ cheaper than starting from scratch. I know an excellent specialist in Oxford and if nothing else comes up it might be worth talking to them: Ivor Terrill. Jonathan

I'd start by measuring the voltage across the battery terminals in three conditions: Engine off Minimum seen during cranking 3,000 rpm.Does the ignition warning light come on, and does it go off as soon as the engine fires? Do you ever see it on while driving? That will tell us a lot about what's working and what might not be. ... Then I'd check the all the wiring and connections to the battery, starter, alternator and the engine earths: visual inspection, wiggle, disconnect, clean and reconnect. Then the alternator belt condition and tension, have a look at the mounting bolts, and check that the alternator can't be moved by hand. Jonathan

If you can give us those 3 voltage readings it will probably help point you in the right direction. Jonathan

If you can't get the bits would you be able to go before the day and ask the testers to check your current set-up? That will only work for the test in the paddock, but they're very experienced and mostly enthusiasts. Probably best after the initial queue in the morning. Jonathan

Do you need to store bonnet or nose somewhere other than the floor, such as up a wall? Got your work lights? Fire extinguishers? First job: applying masking tape, foam, cloth etc to protect vulnerable bits. Second task, and so on until the end: checking you've got the right parts far enough in advance. Jonathan

An under voltage disconnect is a pretty simple circuit to design, so I've no idea what software would need patenting. It might be a bit more active than that. Perhaps that reference to a pulse is something like an applied load and measurement of the effect on the voltage. That might give a better prediction of unlikeliness to start than a passive measurement... but it will increase the rate of running the battery down... In most cases it will be the only parasitic load and solely responsible for it tripping, making it essential once connected............. Reminds me of the famous question of what happens if you plug a UPS into itself... who else has tried? :-) Jonathan

Vibration: original was good, then two replacements, including one from Halfords, were unacceptable, which is why I tried the Summit... and it's fine. Jonathan

It's official grading is "12+". So as a very crude estimate an experienced 10y old could do it. I wouldn't worry about uncoolness if she enjoys technical sets or is interested in cars. Jonathan

Well done, SM25T. 7 minutes! :-) Jonathan

Following BC recommendations I bought a Summit RV-30. Fine so far. The lever/ suction mechanism would allow it to be repositioned easily and quickly. Jonathan

That one appears to have quite a narrow niche... you'd need to have it powered from the battery and be near enough to the vehicle for Bluetooth to work but not driving it or it would charge itself. Jonathan (The 7 and the Vespa live on conditioning chargers all the time they're in the garage)

:-) Jonathan

Hadn't heard of it. Battery Brain sends out a pulse every two seconds to the car battery that senses the voltage level. When the level falls below what is needed to start the engine, the patented microprocessor activates its single moving part (a solenoid) and isolates the battery from the electrical circuit to preserve the charge you will need to start the engine. Theory sounds OK. But the first sentence is a bit weird. Jonathan

Good point about the steering column. Wiggle all the exhaust joints and brackets? Loosen them one at a time and see if it affects the vibration? Ditto engine and gearbox mounts? Take up thy stethoscope? It's probably worth jacking up the engine a bit either before or immediately after getting the car on stands and seeing if that changes anything. Jonathan