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Jonathan Kay

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Everything posted by Jonathan Kay

  1. Jonathan Kay
    That's what I'd do. All: Are there any sections that might hold air when filled from below, and is it advisable to top up Zetecs with the thermostat open? Jonathan
  2. Jonathan Kay
    ... go on climbing trips with 'some' kit... Have you found the options for packing above the boot, such as top bags, and strapped-on dry bags? Jonathan
  3. Jonathan Kay
    I have tried to start my car after removing the sender, but it will not! I think it takes out a fuse in the main fuse rail. Replace that once sender unplugged and all should be well Has anything else failed at the same time? If it turns out not to be the fuse have you got a multimeter? Jonathan
  4. Jonathan Kay
    It is a two year old Duratec ​Don't take much notice of the fuse diagram in the hand book ! Have you got an Assembly Guide and Handbook? If not send me a Private Mail with your email address. And if you have a type that doesn't match we'll work it out and document it to help the next victim. Jonathan
  5. Jonathan Kay
    Also if I lose coolant sorting the leak am I likely to create an air lock with this system or do I just top it up? Where are the highest parts of the system, and where are the bleed points? Jonathan
  6. Jonathan Kay
    Replacement part. And the same thread links to the Caterham workshop notice on a modification for improved earthing. Ian's described the method of testing: there's also more on that, and somewhere there's a note on making a spacer if needed. Jonathan
  7. Jonathan Kay
    What Ian says. There are three common types: mechanical from the gearbox, electronic from the gearbox, and electronic from a wheel. First have a look and tell us which it is. All other instruments and electrics working normally? Jonathan
  8. Jonathan Kay
    I guess that they will ask the same question first: which connector pattern is it? http://www.brise.co.uk/images/D/image-02.jpg Jonathan
  9. Jonathan Kay
    SNAP! Jonathan... crossed, of course :-)
  10. Jonathan Kay
    How about sitting in a few? Where are you? Jonathan
  11. Jonathan Kay
    Wel done, TomB. I wa going to suggest Polevolt and Car Builder Solutions. Jonathan
  12. Jonathan Kay
    Yes: that's now in the collection. Jonathan
  13. Jonathan Kay
    Can you add a photo? Jonathan
  14. Jonathan Kay
    Can't tell yet: have you identified which Brise connector pattern you have? Where do the red, blue and yellow wires come from? Jonathan
  15. Jonathan Kay
    I think I've now got all the published Guides. What does your Guide or Handbook say? What year is the car and which dash? And what can you see on the car... can you add a photo or list the values? (Crossed with your second post.)Jonathan
  16. Jonathan Kay
    Forum User Guide! :-) ... fly to Europe... "to"? ;-) Jonathan
  17. Jonathan Kay
    Well done. I would like to replace the coolant temp sensor (if that is what it is called) but I'm not sure where I would get one from Can you add a photo with the connector off and on? Jonathan
  18. Jonathan Kay
    Done. Brilliant and original: please wish her luck. Jonathan
  19. Jonathan Kay
    That appears to be a mixture of petrol and propan-2-ol (isopropanol). After mechanical decrudding either of those common cleaners should do the job. For subsequent protection it's widely asserted that some proprietary water repellents are much better than WD-40. Plausible but I don't think I've ever seen a decent study. Jonathan
  20. Jonathan Kay
    So if I'm taking it out for a spin each weekend should I really be cleaning it well after each use? And / or is it just important to spray underneath the car where it's more likely to suffer from corrosion? There are different practices for both desalting and protection. Do you know about the reputed high risk areas... search for "grot traps". Jonathan
  21. Jonathan Kay
    They're in this thread, as are the wiring notes. Which type have you got? Brown/Yellow should be alternator to warning light. Thick Brown is probably alternator to battery positive. Jonathan
  22. Jonathan Kay
    There's a thread this week where I posted the various Brise terminal patterns. I'll link to it when I get back from tonight's rehearsal if you haven't found it. Jonathan
  23. Jonathan Kay
    The rate of acceleration is indicated by the slope of each line -- the flatter the line, the greater the rate. That doesn't sound right to me... more, please. ... and it is a fact the rate of acceleration, in all gears, will be less with a 3.62 diff. That may be true overall, but it isn't at all points. Imagine, for example positive flat-out acceleration at a road speed where you have just had to change up in the lower geared car because of the rev limit or being over the top of the power curve. In the higher geared car where you hadn't yet had to change up you'd be at higher engine speed with more excess power and greater acceleration. Jonathan
  24. Jonathan Kay
    I don't have anything on the S terminal... Although having read the above could I not short this to the IG terminal without causing a problem? Yes. But IG needs to be connected to an ignition-switched battery positive. Am I right in thinking if I check the colour of the wire on the back of the dash going into the warning light it should match the wire colour going into the L terminal? Probably. Should be Brown/Yellow, and that is unlikely to be used for anything else. But it's not a reliable rule for more common colours. But I think we have to work out what that yellow wire is. Jonathan
  25. Jonathan Kay
    Hi, am I right in reading this that you managed to adjust the pedals for heel-n-toe? I want to do that with my SV but have not come close. Have you got to the limit of positions and adjustment? Mine was nowhere near where I wanted it after that. Next step is bending the throttle pedal. But that still wasn't enough. So I fitted a mahogany block on the pedal plate. Now it's right. (And this winter the pedal will be cut and shut to the same position thanks to the kind offers of a couple of generous Members.) Jonathan
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