Jonathan Kay
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Everything posted by Jonathan Kay
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"Butt" (as in the photo) or "bullet"? If they're "butt" have a look down one end... can you see a seam? They work better if the seam ends up on a flat bit of the crimp rather than the bend. And if you're putting two wires in one end make sure it can fit both bits of insulated cable, and twist the cores together. I'd have a good play and test all the moves before doing it for real even if it costs a few. You'll be fine. Jonathan
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:-) Jonathan
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Advice please - front suspension - minor maintenance?
Jonathan Kay replied to mudguard's topic in TechTalk
:-) Jonathan -
Pick a calculator, change the final drive value and see the effect on engine speed at 70 mph etc. Those calculators also allow you to predict the speed in any gear once you've entered the ratios. :-) Jonathan PS: I'd measure the final drive ratio directly: jack up the back end, turn a road wheel by hand and count the ratio of turns of the prop shaft to turns of the wheel.
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Tyre diameter is 556mm (21.91"). Now we need to work through the stupid inconsistent units... gives a final drive ratio of 3.25. Are these known to exist? 3.9 final drive gives 66 mph at 4,000 rpm. 3.6 final drive gives 72 mph at 4,000 rpm. Jonathan
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Yes. How good are you at soldering? I know that many experts do it that way but a bad joint is a hassle. You could use double bullet connectors. But how about crimp butt connectors, and I'd use the type with built-in heat shrink insulation? http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/pIAAAOxyi-ZTX6Ob/s-l1600.jpg Jonathan (no relation)
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I have to admit I don't know, what I do know is its at about 4700 at 80. What wheels and tyres? Do you mean tweaking the Diff? Depends on how pedantic anyone is feeling, but I'll go with "Yes". :-) Jonathan
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Would you settle for a longer final drive? What do you have at the moment? Jonathan
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Same as #4, but in JPEG: Jonathan
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I wouldn't play with that connection. That leaves finding the other end of the signal wire or splicing into it... Jonathan
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IIRC some of us have resorted to carrying a filling spout. Jonathan
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Pretty sure mine was std spade connectors. I made up 3 mini adaptor cables that connected to the back of the tacho, the loom and the shift lights. Yes, that's neat. If there are existing spade connectors you can do it with those Y-pieces made up on the bench or by using piggyback spade bits. The earth and switched power can come from anywhere convenient, which increases the chance of finding an existing spade connector. The tachometer signal is different: i'm just waiting to hear if that's going to need a splice of some sort. Jonathan
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I have just had a peak behind the tacho and there were only 4 wires! How do they connect to the instrument? Plus a much bigger black-sheathed cable. That's probably the instrument light. If so the lampholder will pull out of the back. Jonathan
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Have you got the shift lights yet, and what sort are they? Have you already had the tachometer out and looked at the back? Is it one big proprietary connector? What model of 7 and which dash? Do you have the wiring diagram already? In the meantime: "standard" wiring colours, which are probably right, but not guaranteed. ... Connectors: Scotchlok and soldering* generally deprecated, but opinions vary. ... Jonathan * Pace Edd China and Orange County Choppers!
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3. Tight Tillets. I find Tillets a bit tight around the sides of my upper back. If I could sit a tiny bit forward out of the seat, I think it would be problem solved. Does anyone have any experience with this kind of thing, and does it do the job? Yes, there's quite a lot on this in the archives and some hints. Jonathan
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Did you find this discussion of alternatives? NB Club discount at Halfords. It's also been suggested that there's a Ford equivalent of the Volvo booster seat that is cheaper, but I don't think that anyone's found a part number. Jonathan
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Alternator charging warning light (does this get used in a caterham?) Yes, that's the red ignition warning light that goes on then off when the engine starts, usually Brown/Yellow. I'm not sure but in some arrangements that might also energise the alternator. Jonathan
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I can see it... it's a pdf so that you can enlarge it, but that might be the problem. What browser and OS are you using? Please send me a Private Mail with your email address and I'll send the file. Jonathan
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As well as the battery theory did you disconnect the power while working on it... it may be that it just needs to be reset after that. And then it's possible that the tester pressed the "Arm" button without the reset sequence having been completed. IIRC it sometimes takes several attempts to get the reset to bite. Jonathan
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Sounds like the Rover "robust" immobiliser. I once scanned the page from the Guide and uploaded it but can't find it in the archives... hold on... Robust Immobiliser.pdf Jonathan
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What type of immobiliser is it, and do you have the reset procedure? Did you change anything in getting ready for the inspection? Was the problem after the lights being on for testing with the engine off? Could the battery be marginal? What's the voltage at rest, minimum during cranking and at 3,000 rpm? Jonathan
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Elie, ChrisC: thanks for the correction and warning. Sorry. Is the advice in #2 and #7 now safe? Jonathan
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They are going to be clamped in compression and there's no shear force around the holes? I'd open them up. Jonathan
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To the best of my knowledge Private Messages are being delivered despite the error message. External email notifications are sometimes being sent and sometimes not. There's a comment from Shaun in the last few days. Jonathan PS It's now possible to post Dropbox images inline:
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So it might be closing perfectly... but in the wrong engine! © Morecambe E, Atkinson R... Jonathan
