Jonathan Kay

In no particular order: Do you think it's done this ever since the work? Visual inspection from filler cap to exhaust: filler hose, fuel tank, float fitting, pipes... do you have an Assembly Guide? If the tank (or anything else) is dirty give it a good clean and then inspect again. You can use bits of paper towel to check for moistness. Get someone else to confirm the timing of the appearance of the smell. Starting and running OK? Any visible emissions from exhaust pipe? Does it live in a garage or outside? How far are you from the remapper, and where are you?And the safety note: keep everything well ventilated, no naked flames, pilot lights, smoking etc and have a fire extinguisher somewhere appropriate. Jonathan PS: Any pointers and as I'm a complete novice, please provide as much detail as possible. "We are all complete novices, but some of us are looking at the stars". :-)

Is that legal? http://animals.sandiegozoo.org/sites/default/files/inline-images/mandrill_male.jpg :-) Jonathan

Have you found this? Dremels, chisels, bread, grease and pullers*. Jonathan * Their early albums were the best. :-)

But who is supplying or using toughened glass for car windscreens? Jonathan

It's widely deprecated, but not as much as mixing at the same end. Even if you could practice with the effects on grip and slip angle on a track etc it still won't tell you what will happen when it's cold or wet or otherwise different... I'd follow JNC's plan. Jonathan

Do you mean replacing the screen in the frame? (You can buy the glass in the right size. There are some reports of doing that in the archives, doesn't sound too hard... ) Or the framed windscreen on the car? (Lots of us have done that and it's quick and not tricky.) Nearly all car windscreens are now laminated glass... intriguingly that's the second time it's come up today. What do they do on rally cars? Roughly speaking you have to cut glass before you toughen it. Jonathan

It's your alternator... but I strongly recommend doing those measurements first. They should help to diagnose the problem. Jonathan

Good question: I don't know a structured answer. But: There's a vast amount of this scattered across threads. For me searching with eg Google with site restriction works a lot better than the internal search. There's a list of bolts and parts packs. There are the Guides. It's often worth asking Caterham Parts by email or 'phone if the website doesn't do what you want. Redline is an invaluable source of information as well as a trusted supplier of parts.Jonathan PS: You posted this in the "For Sale" section.

Check the alternator is mounted OK and not loose. Check the alternator belt is undamaged and tension is OK. Measure the battery voltage at rest, minimum during cranking, and at 3,000 rpm.Jonathan

MOT documentation, including the manuals, notices and testing guide. Is that what you're pondering? But the legal requirements are contained in the Road Vehicles (Construction and Use) Regulations. It's good to have them online and they're surprisingly readable but I find it hard to know that I'm looking at the current version. (It would be a great knowledge management project to sort them by topic.) Jonathan

Where does the heat come from, and how does it get to the tunnel? Thanks Jonathan

There's a recent Bulk Buy of custom mounts: how about that? Jonathan

Am I expected to cut slits in the carpet & trim to fit? Yes. From the Assembly Guide: 10.2) Seat back carpets Warning Ensure adhesive is applied in a well- ventilated area. Follow instructions on adhesive packaging. Care must be taken whilst working in a confined area e.g. The footwell. The carpet that covers the seat back area has a vinyl strip along the upper edge. Lay the carpet into place ensuring that the carpet covers the aluminium seat back right down to the floor. Apply adhesive to the vinyl strip and stick to the square tube at the top of the seat back panel. The seatback carpet will need to be cut to allow the seat belt through it. Mark the carpet where the inertia reel seat belt exits the seat back and cut a slot. The carpet must fit flat at the transmission tunnel. If necessary, small cuts should be made in the area of the corners to allow the tabs on the carpet to hinge out against the transmission tunnel. Once the carpet has been fitted around the transmission tunnel apply adhesive to the carpet and press into position against the seat back. It is only necessary to apply adhesive as far down as the top of the transmission tunnel as the remainder of the carpet is behind the seats. ... Those slits will then be covered by the tunnel carpet pieces. Jonathan PS: You've started two threads. How about changing the title of the other so all the replies accumulate here?

... after hard acceleration or cornering the whole lot comes loose and hangs on the cables, so maybe I should sort that out ? That's a good plan. :-) Jonathan

Wheel mounting? Have you found the advice on the bracket and on setting the gap? Jonathan

Have you tried removing whatever (non-timing) belts it has? As above: Does the position of the clutch pedal affect it? Have you tried to localise it with a stethoscope? Jonathan

Refilled and ran to find what appears to be a leak from INSIDE the plastic bleed screw where the hex drive locates! What does this look like: can you add a photo of the hole and the screw? Would PTFE tape on the thread stand a chance of working? Cant see this type of large plastic bleed screw with o-ring on Caterham spares site. Can anyone advise where I can buy one? Talk to Redline? Jonathan

Previous discussions: NS-2R NS-2R and R888Jonathan

It would be useful to document these. I've sent you a Private Mail: if you tell me the URLs I'll post them. Thanks Jonathan

Too many https! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271765788262 Jonathan

How about getting it repaired? Many Members seem happy with that and you know it will fit when it goes back. Jonathan PS: If it wasn't out already I'd do the following: Check that it's getting enough smoke to make it spin as it should. What's the battery voltage at rest, minimum during struggling, and at 3,000 rpm? Once those are known to be good check all the wires and connections, including the earths. Wiggle, disconnect and clean. That still leaves the starter solenoid as a potential problem. Rig a temporary switched bypass wire to the solenoid terminal on the starter and see if that makes a difference.

Well done. And a nice test routine. Jonathan

I'm sorry but I don't think that I can do this from the wire colours without one in front of me... can you work out the function of each of those from what you have? Jonathan

If you start with this thread which leads to this blog does that help? Jonathan

Do you have a wiring diagram for your car? If you'd like one please send me a Private Mail with your email address and the year, engine and type of dash. The "standard" wiring colours might also help you to identify what you've got. Jonathan