Jonathan Kay

Thanks x2. But I was looking for a way to make them play nicely so that i don't have to replace them. Jonathan

Just had the footwell carpets out for cleaning, and it had been some time since I last did that. On the L they all unpopped nicely. On the R I had to lever each one apart and they all had some white crud inside. Now I can't get any of them to click down. Any tricks or advice before I replace them? I have a multimeter and wiring diagram but they don't seem to help. Thanks Jonathan

I thought there was a guide somewhere on here on doing the relay mod - can someone point me to where it is please? It's linked from post #4 in this thread; is that the one you were thinking of? Jonathan

... but I'm not getting any signals of a failing battery in terms of cranking capacity - what were the signs on yours? There seems to be something about 7s where deterioration presents differently from ordinary cars, and we could speculate... But the same initial tests will work for diagnosis: battery voltage at rest, minimum during cranking and at 3,000 rpm. Jonathan

Don't let this put you off doing the voltage tests, but those clever little CTEK chargers have some diagnostic value... let us know how it progresses on the indicator lights. Jonathan

I could stick the battery back on trickle charge over the weekend to if that cures but am wondering if that would impact any tests, then again both the issues, cold and hot starting, could be caused by a weak battery if I am understanding everything correctly. No problem with charging the battery before the diagnostic tests, but: If it's the sort that you can check the liquid level then do, and top up if needed. Do you mean a traditional dumb trickle charger or a smart current-sensing conditioning charger such as a a CTEK, AccuMate or OptiMate? It's easy to overcharge with the former.I don't like the idea of charging the battery in order to see if it cures anything... Jonathan

It's safe to plug any USB device into any socket. If the current rating of the socket is lower than that of the device then charging will be slow. In a few combinations the device will decide not to charge at all. ... will it be ok to plug a 1.5 amp device in to a 2.5 amp USB socket? Should be fine. Jonathan

I've seen this a number of times - Jonathan will no doubt remember my oscilloscope investigations. We talk of little else in Garsington! :-) Jonathan

I was going to look at performing the relay mod such as this: http://www.alcester-racing-sevens.com/relay_mod_illustrated.htm That's the one. If it comes to that. If you'd like a wiring diagram please send me a Private Mail with your email address. That temporary wire was only for diagnostic purposes! Jonathan

Mmmm.... data. :-) You already know about the MFRU (and whoever named it knew what they were doing): have you found the fix in case it does turn out to be that? You're probably about to get lots of "It's always x... " and "In my case it was y...". But the main point is that the click and failure to start is a common final pathway for many faults. I'd start with: Measuring the battery voltage: at rest, at 3,000 rpm, and minimum during cranking or trying to. Taking apart and inspecting the likely suspects amongst the wires and connections: everything at the battery, all the fat ones, including all of the earths, and the one to the solenoid. Look, wiggle, clean connections and reconnect. Rigging a temporary jump feed from the battery to the solenoid, touching it on or using a switch and seeing if that works any better.Jonathan PS: Do you have a multimeter? And a wiring diagram?

Do you want decent grip when it's on the road in the wet? Jonathan

Don't think I've seen that described before. What type are they? It's happening on both sides so a single dodgy connection is unlikely. Presumably they're wired to the power feeds separately... there isn't some sort of common controller? What's the outer ring in traditional terms: full, dip, side? How about rigging a temporary jump feed for testing purposes that doesn't use the current switches or relay? Ditto earth. What's the battery voltage at tickover, and does the flickering go away when the engine runs faster? I'd put my money on both having failed separately, and the only common factor being the type or batch. Jonathan

K series block? Ready diluted or DIY? Jonathan

There are references to heat shields in the archives. Does your set-up have the option of rerouting any of the cables away from the heat even if it makes the runs longer? (In practice I think that most people replace them eventually once they're fully cooked.) Jonathan

Does this unit need only three connections: power feed, earth and signal? As ChrisC says the first two can come from any convenient fused switched feed and earth wire or earth point. Have you identified the wires on the shift unit and the signal wire at the rev counter? As ChrisC also suggests I'd prefer a solution that can be removed. I wouldn't use ScotchLok connectors and I don't like soldering on cars. If you release the rev counter from the dashboard and have a look at the back how are the existing wires attached... spade connectors or a proprietary multiway connector? Jonathan

Pauls: How do you diagnose the cooked bits... look and feel? How about poking the wires and connectors with a wooden spoon while the engine is running and seeing if the fault can be provoked? Usual precautions. Jonathan

Agreed, it might come to that if something clever doesn't come to light. But I'm not sure that you could find a film that is clear enough by day and shady enough by night. Jonathan

Have you got the instructions for the shift lights and a wiring diagram for the 7? There's a recent discussion where someone found a prepared connector under the dashboard... let us know if you can't find either. Jonathan

Thanks, John. Jonathan

How about a separate temperature sensor for the purposes of study? That might be easier than using the same one as the ECU. Jonathan

! Get well soon. Jonathan

How's it glowing, Mark? Jonathan

Please can someone post a photo of the fix. Thanks Jonathan

Sounds like you need a trickle charger while the car is in storage. I wouldn't leave a typical 7 battery on a traditional trickle charger. But mine (and the Vespa) live happily on smart current-sensing conditioning chargers such as CTEK, OptiMate or AccuMate. Jonathan

twincamtim: Any more data, and have you replaced the battery? Jonathan