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Jonathan Kay

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Everything posted by Jonathan Kay

  1. Don't think I've heard of one, and certainly don't think it's mad. But have you compared your foot and leg position and the required force against some other 7s? Similarly for general fit? Jonathan
  2. Do they provide the evidence for the "Benefits"? Jonathan
  3. If a definitive answer doesn't appear here I'd 'phone Redline. Jonathan
  4. ... what's the best way to test for oblique mounting rather than a high spot or other distortion? Is a steel rule at 90° a good enough edge to distinguish between them? (For bikes I use the point of a pencil clamped to a retort stand.) ... A fixed reference point or clock gauge will demonstrate any run out. ... Thanks, Ian. But that isn't quite what I was asking... and approximately none of us have dedicated gauges. Jonathan
  5. What were the concentrations, and do you have them from previous tests? Jonathan
  6. What is this tyre string? Any links. Oh, yes. But I'm not sure it's named consistently so there might be more information in the many other threads. Jonathan
  7. Is it really warped ... or fitted with a bit of grit between it and the hub. Disks don't generally warp. It may also be pad pick up with a bit of pad material adhered to the surface of the disc .... long hot stop then remaining stationary with foot on pedal for a few seconds. This burns the friction material on to the face of the disc ... and goes clonk every rotation thereafter. I understand the bit about pad material, but what's the best way to test for oblique mounting rather than a high spot or other distortion? Is a steel rule at 90° a good enough edge to distinguish between them? (For bikes I use the point of a pencil clamped to a retort stand.) Thanks Jonathan
  8. Was your sucker the clever type that has a lever? Jonathan
  9. Don't know about the headlight bulb: which fuses have blown? Do they blow again? There's a Caterham Workshop Notice about improving the wiring of the speedometer circuit. Can the sensor mounted near the rear wheel be tested on a multi-meter to see if it is the culprit, if so how? You can test power and earth but signal might be a problem. But most (? all) of those sensor units have a built-in indicator light. After checking and replacing fuses I'd start with that. There are also some advice on how to set the clearance of the sensor to maximise reliability. Jonathan
  10. Anyone tried on-car skimming, as on Wheeler Dealers? Jonathan
  11. Donughts to anyone who suggested this. Post #6, point 7? But shared with Tom and Brian. But not how Bob Marley likes his, please. :-) Jonathan (and don't mention the post!)
  12. You'll probably be fine. Have the security code for the radio etc ready for re-entry. Penetrating fluid on the clamp fittings in advance. Make sure it isn't alarmed or immobilised. Disconnect and reconnect in the right order... which is slightly counter-intuitive. I recommend Tayna, and you might save a bit more than that. Tanya PS: if you decide not to do it yourself then buying from and fitting by Halfords (don't forget the Club discount) will probably be cheaper than a main dealer.
  13. The same one that was squeaking? Have you had a chance to jack it up and check the play? Jonathan
  14. Sounds like it. Any recent changes? Checklist roughly as in the doughnut thread. Jonathan
  15. It's some way short of what you suggest but have you found Filter by Participant? Jonathan
  16. It's a really unsatisfactory area. I've never seen a definitive list of factory colours and codes, and have a look at GJT's comments. In practice I think that most people end up matching by eye, with or without an expert. There's a suggestion for white here. Jonathan
  17. Where did the muscle act... did you leave the wings on the stays and persuade the stays? Jonathan
  18. I think it must be pad related as it stops when I brake. I'm now out of my comfort zone but IIRC there can be faults elsewhere which cause this but the sounds disappear on braking because of the changed loads on the hub. Jonathan
  19. A couple of Members had them in 2013: I'd contact them directly if you don't get a response here. Full search, but it doesn't add much to the above. Jonathan
  20. Are they different with the wide track set-up? Track rod ends. Full search. Ball joints: upper or lower? Full search. Jonathan
  21. I'd get it up at the front and see if I can replicate the sound by spinning each wheel by hand. Then, as demonstrated by Edd China: Hands at 6 and 12 o'clock on each wheel and yank to and fro. Hands at 3 and 9 o'clock on each wheel and yank to and fro. Steer to each extreme and back. Check for play at all joints possible, he uses a pry bar. Wheels off, checking nuts and studs on the way and inspect suspension, steering and brakes. Inspect wheels and tyres for damage and witness marks, including weights as above. Inspect discs.Jonathan
  22. Can you hear it when you jack up the corner and spin the wheel or only when it's on the road? Is it affected by the steering? Jonathan
  23. This has come up a few times before but I can't remember the outcomes. Edited: Previous discussions, NB some of those are returned by the search not because it was a BMW diff that was the problem but because it was considered as a solution. Any chance of comparing it with some others? Where are you? Doesn't sound too likely from your post but are you sure it's in the final drive and not the prop shaft joint? Jonathan
  24. Previous discussions of options and products. Jonathan PS: It would be great if someone would summarise this in a Guide...
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