Jonathan Kay

... the thread was bashed up in a vice... I believe the technical expression is "Phew!". :-) Jonathan

Can you add a photo to show the type? Or link to a video of it being manipulated? Has it got stiffer recently? Any impacts? Does it unstiffen with grease? ... And with the front jacked up and the UJ out does the rest of the steering move smoothly across the whole of its excursion? ... Jonathan

Google (not BlatChat) searches: Ford Sigma plugs stuck Ford Duratec plugs stuck Jonathan

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I usually get my butler to bring them along separately............. Does he fly in... as with the McLaren F1. (Do they still provide that support on road cars?) Jonathan

Thanks Jonathan

thought I just said this.. Deep ominous voice: This is not the Minno shuttle tyre pressures thread you're looking for. ;-) Jonathan

Is the standard Comma DOT4 clutch & brake fluid OK? Have you got the Assembly Guide and Handbook for your 7. Let me know if not. Do you know what was used previously? Jonathan

Not sure what the etiquette is for this kind of thing, but happy to drop them a line and see what they can do unless anyone else wants to do it. If it's a Bulk Buy and you're prepared to run it just go ahead. I'd be happy to share my experiences and I'm sure others would. If it's a Club discount or special offer contact Geoff Brown. Jonathan

Paul: is that the same as the one that's in the archives? (I couldn't find it.) And which model, please? Thanks Jonathan Quick tweak for the screen:

Sorry, don't know what sort of 7 you have. But that sounds (!) like a good place to look (and listen). You could also look from underneath, and a mirror or smart 'phone might help with that. Or set it going and try to find it by touch. Jonathan

anyone else had similar They have on Sigmas: how similar is the layout? Jonathan PS: You probably don't want to think any more about threads today, but how many does this problem need? ;-)

So at least one plug was rusty. What does the inside of the connectors look like? Jonathan

Longer seat spacers? Jonathan

What Piers and Blacken say: not an area for skimping. Are commercial non-fitted plugs and protectors cheaper from tool shops than from Boots and similar in the same way as eye protection? Club discount with ACS Hearing Protection. (3M offered something similar after I did some unrelated work with them and Geoff took it up but it was then pointed out that there was no saving over other outlets.) Jonathan

Just trying to picture exactly what has come out and what has stayed behind. Can you add a photo of the two withdrawn plugs, the intact and the rogered? Jonathan

IIRC on mine the screw goes into a clamp which tightens against the rim. I suspect you have enough thread on the head side of the clamp to allow the clamp to spin over the rim. So the screw doesn't untighten any more. Can you pull the screw outwards as you unscrew so that the spinning of the clamp is restricted by the rim? Jonathan PS: Fitting better bulbs while you have the chance?

If you don't get a more specific answer try page 18 of the generic Handbook. But I'm surprised that the recommendations don't all vary with load. Jonathan

What model and year is it? I think there's a photo of one in the archives... IIRC it's a disc of about 10 mm diameter, covered in tape and stuck to the loom. Jonathan

Not in Shaun's bolt list. This thread suggests M10 x 1, and this 12.9 grade. Jonathan

This is a notorious and extensively studied problem. The archives are full of reports and solutions. But it has quite a lot of possible causes. As you're probably about to discover. Do you have a multimeter and a wiring diagram? I'd start by: Measuring the battery voltage at rest, minimum during cranking and at 3,000 rpm. Inspecting all of the relevant wires and wiggling, disconnecting, cleaning and reconnecting all of their connections. That's everything on the starter and the battery and all of the thick ones including the earths.Jonathan

I believe all the gauges are linked, so if one plays up it may cause a fault on another one. I checked all the fuses and they are ok. Yes, they probably share a common feed (and fuse) and a common earth. That earth has been known to play up. Probably best to locate it (let us know if you can't), disconnect, clean and reconnect. Then check continuity from the earth lead of one of the instruments to chassis earth. Yes i have a multimeter. But not sure what to do with it. Do i check the connections for continuity of the sender connections? I'd start by checking some background points. What's the voltage across the battery terminals at: Rest? Minimum during starting? 3,000 rpm... and how constant is it?Initial tests on the gauge: Release it from the dashboard. Identify the wires and the terminals on the back. How many are there? The wiring diagram and the wire colours will help. With it connected and the ignition on check the voltage between the power terminal and the earth terminal. The sender varies the resistance seen by the gauge. Initial test on the sender: Identify the wire(s) and terminal(s). How many are there? Disconnect the wire(s). Measure the resistance between the terminals with the engine off, at idle and at 3,000 rpm. You'll probably need to set the meter to a range of 0 to 1000 Ω.Jonathan