Jonathan Kay
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Everything posted by Jonathan Kay
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Yes, but they'll have been through that before. Is the warranty the same as this one? There does seem to be a rule of thumb that Banners don't recover well, if at all, if it dies completely. I don't know that they are any worse than any other small lightweight lead-acid battery... but there are a lot of them in 7s... Jonathan
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The rev counter needle keeps jumping. Dropping to zero and recovering by itself or something else? I have also tried a new rev counter itself and also changed my battery cut off switch but the rev counter needle still jumps. Please confirm: both rev counters show the same problem? And that's when the swapping is done at the connector on the rev counter itself? Jonathan
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Is a 21 like a particular 7? There are several different factory recommendations and quite a lot additional in the archives. Here's what the Assembly Guide for my 1998 K de Dion says: Jonathan
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Probably shot. But I'd run through the following (which is very similar to what you're doing already): Check the fluid levels and top-up if necessary. Give it one hour on the old-fashioned dumb trickle charger. Measure the battery voltage at rest and then the minimum during trying to start. If that minimum is less than 10.5 V then give it four hours on the old-fashioned dumb trickle charger. Measure the battery voltage at rest and then the minimum seen during trying to start. Tell us the results.Jonathan ... it's difficult to believe 2 chargers are both defective at the same time? Agreed, but there is known situation where the clever conditioning charger can't get a flat battery going where a dumb charger or the alternator can. I don't think that's what's happening here.
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There seem to be three differences between the arrangements: The filling of the hose. The new explicit earth. The extension of the wire to the loom/ gauge.Respectively for 1 and 2: Are you supposed to fill the hose with oil, and did you? I think that full scale means "low resistance at the sender" but I'm not sure that it's that way round. If it's showing that regardless of the true pressure that suggests that the new earth wire is bypassing the sender and inappropriately contacting the other wire that goes to the loom/ gauge. Jonathan PS: What I'd actually do is disconnect everything and measure the resistance across the sender directly.
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How important is performance in the wet? Jonathan
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Thread thread, but they may not all be the same. Jonathan
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It was only to show: The angle of the track rods and wishbones, as you've described. The ride height: what's the minimum under the sump?Jonathan
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My car is a 1995 and I have heard the rack placement was not very accurate on some cars of this age. I don't know the factors that affect this (?models, generations, wheels and tyres, ride height?), but it's well described and the solutions are identified, as you point out in the first post. I still have problems with photo's due to file sizes. Can I help? Jonathan
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How strange. When you connected it directly to the coil were you using the existing power and earth or did you rig something new? Have you tried wiggling bits to restore function? The engine runs normally as that 10s expires? Do you have a multimeter?Jonathan PS: Alpine V as in Sunbeam?
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Don't worry... yet. That's using the existing wiring with no changes except that new connection to earth? How many terminals on the sender and where did you connect the new wire? Do you have a multimeter?Jonathan
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As above. Can you add a nose-on photo of the front to show the angles of the track rods? Jonathan PS: I'd have been to an expert with the suspension that far off. They have more expertise and better measuring equipment,
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I was so interested in the effects of CBT that I forgot to include a link to all of the relevant Cochrane Reviews. Jonathan
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Well done, and good to know. Jonathan PS: You don't have to apologise for electrical puns. There's no charge.
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Well done. Jonathan PS: I'd still be interested in the colours of that pair while you're down there...
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On top of the square chassis tube looks good. What's acceptable practice for mounting... is thick foam tape and plastic cable ties enough? Jonathan
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I don't think there's any effective remedy for the tinnitus but there's lots of evidence in favour of Cognitive Behavioural Therapy for reducing the impact on your life. Cochrane Review from 2010 and there are similar studies since: conclusions from the abstract in full: "In six studies we found no evidence of a significant difference in the subjective loudness of tinnitus. However, we found a significant improvement in depression score (in six studies) and quality of life (decrease of global tinnitus severity) in another five studies, suggesting that CBT has a positive effect on the management of tinnitus." Jonathan
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Laugh if you will, but I finally know what speed I'm travelling! I wouldn't laugh at all. The Letraset method is excellent if you don't want to go through a full calibration for any reason. Jonathan PS: The ergonomics of display of speed in many cars is very poor in addition to the inaccuracy.
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I'd ask John Vine for a copy of WN572. There's a related post about matching the sensor and speedometer from ChrisC. And the original speedo was re installed and working after I couldnt get the new one to work in February, and has been in situ and was working up until yesterday when in went into the garage, so I am pretty confident the wiring is ok I see what you mean, but it's also possible that something blew during the work. Jonathan PS: it's great to get quick direct answers! :-)
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Have you got: The wiring diagram for fitting that resistor? The Workshop Notice on improving the wiring? (Can't remember if that includes a test routine.) The original speedometer, and when did you last test the sensor and wiring by reinstalling that?Jonathan
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Do you have a gearbox or a wheel driven sensor? Did the previous unit work consistently even though it was inaccurate? Jonathan
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I opened this thinking that's what you were about to show us! :-) Could you connect it and show us the options? Jonathan
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Are there any more connectors available in the engine bay, or do I run a 12v pair from the fuse box? Assuming you want it switched with the ignition (but 12V !) I don't know any convenient points for that model. If that doesn't work out then yes, the fuse box might be convenient. A piggyback fuse as in the photo below might be the easiest connection. Remember to protect the wire with grommets etc if you have to go through a a panel and tether it appropriately. You only need a feed as you can use any convenient earthing point. Jonathan
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What is it used for? And is there a particular reason to try and improve the cooling? I don't know about very powerful Ks but there seem to be more reports of overcooling than the opposite nowadays. My guess is that this is because of better radiators. ... re-fill the rad with synthetic - non-water-based coolant when done. Evans Waterless Coolant? I wouldn't do that if you're worried about peak cooling capacity. It has lower thermal transfer than mixtures of water and ethylene glycol. Probably best to discuss this particular point in one of the existing threads. Jonathan -
That's all I could think of... but why in the nosecone? Some cooling system control stuff that's unused but there for another configuration? We might get a clue from the wiring colours, model and year and whether it has been modified... Jonathan
