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Jonathan Kay

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Everything posted by Jonathan Kay

  1. Did not check the voltage on the battery as I assumed that putting it in parallel with my other car's battery (and keeping it running) would ensure there was enough juice? Usually yes. But that relies on the assumption of good contacts, and if jumping, that the 7's battery etc isn't pulling the other one down. And that's only the first part of the test: if there's enough oomph across the battery when cranking you can then test if it's getting to the starter. Jonathan
  2. I think it's probably a fault within the starter, but I'd take the electrical checks a bit further: What's the battery voltage at rest and minimum seen during cranking (you can do the latter with the jump battery connected if you choose)? You've put in a good earth. Now inspect and wiggle all the other relevant wires and disconnect, clean and reconnect all the connections. That's everything at the starter and the battery and the thin wire(s) to the starter solenoid.Jonathan PS: As well as clouting them when they're sticky you can turn the ignition off, put the car in gear and push it a bit.
  3. Doh! It's only my trip indicator that's U/S. Jonathan
  4. I suggest emailing John Ostick. Jonathan PS: Mine's jammed and I've never bothered.
  5. Photos? And I'd talk to Oxted/ Thundersport and Soft Bits for Sevens about options. Jonathan
  6. Thanks, Duncan. Does that one include the circuitry so that you only need one of it? Jonathan
  7. Any current recommendations for louder buzzers... someone recommended Maplins... Thanks Jonathan
  8. I've scanned the notes from the Assembly Guide which include the reset procedure. Let me know if you can't find them in the archives... ... but I don't think that mine does "autoset". 1998 1800 K. Jonathan
  9. You might find something suitable at a specialist cycle shop. I'd start with SJS Cycles. Jonathan
  10. Any recommendations or advice for a small instant electric water heater? Current hot favourite is a Stiebel Eltron Hand Wash Unit at £50: http://cdn.toolstation.com/images/141020-UK/800/69896.jpgThanks Jonathan PS: This is to replace a 10 y old Dimplex. The control knob was always stiff and is now unusable. Looks a bit like the above. Why do they make these knobs (and so many on showers) so that you have to grip rather than bear against the lever?
  11. The fuse rating is typically 10 A. At least 3 connectors: the ignition switched feed and the L and R outputs. Jonathan
  12. Have you looked at all the ones from CBS? Jonathan
  13. Preferences for appearance? How about: Jonathan
  14. I can now see the image at the very top of post #13. The one after: I think it's significant that this whole problem started after I'd taken the inlet manifold off to facilitate flushing out the cooling system. !! shows a duff link in Blatchat but leads to the same image in PhotoBucket... should there be two different images? Jonathan PS: No email or Private Message received.
  15. There are lots of options to remind us or to self-cancel. Is what you are looking for a typical indicator switch with a built-in bright light? Jonathan
  16. Thanks for the update. Can't get the Photobucket link to work ! What's the URL... I think that we can now get most commercially served images to display inline. Jonathan
  17. As discussed this morning. Jonathan
  18. Jonathan Kay

    tool table

    Very neat. Incidentally, I consider getting these photos onto the site a greater achievement Well done. :-) Jonathan
  19. It's a pretty common problem area, both not making properly and shorting on adjacent bits. Typical solutions include: Watching the actuation carefully and improving positioning and alignment. Taking apart and cleaning without the internal spring making a bid for freedom. Replacement, and I think that there's a better model suggested in the archives. Let us know if you can't find it. Edited: Crossed with Paul's.Jonathan
  20. Thanks: hadn't come across them. Jonathan PS: This morning's walk was Swyncombe from Ewelme, and hot!
  21. As above. I'd overhaul, or get someone else to do that for me. And I'd do both sides. Jonathan
  22. Finally, I fitted air scoops to the footwells, and that really helps, the negative cockpit pressure ensures a good blast of cooling air on your feet. Those scoops take ambient air from outside and push it into the footwells? No connection to the engine bay? Thanks Jonathan
  23. I can report that the engine bay is definitely cooler and this is demonstrated by the engine running at lower temperatures (still within the operating window obviously), which will come in handy with the odd summers day track day. I understand the effect on the engine bay but why does the engine run cooler? Thanks Jonathan
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