Jump to content
Click here if you are having website access problems ×

Jonathan Kay

Member
  • Posts

    40,929
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    16

Everything posted by Jonathan Kay

  1. Problem does not happen when engine is running, i.e. it does not stall. That includes prolonged high power running... not just idle? Jonathan
  2. Comma recommend G48 for the s1 elise (k series ) and G30 for other k series engined cars. Never heard that before... do they give any reason? I'd emphasise the need to replace the inhibitors at an appropriate frequency, and of course that means the entire coolant. Jonathan
  3. As above. There was a posting on here recently where the sensor on a new build was at fault. And I think the same discussion included others' experiences of how long it took for the pressure to rise in a new engine. Let us know if you can't find it. If you're cranking repeatedly, especially with the plugs in place, measure the minimum battery voltage while you're cranking as well as guessing by ear how fast it seems to be turning. Jonathan
  4. Sharp-edged plastic cooking spatula? Jonathan
  5. And can you get it into the failure state for long enough to test it? ... either electrical continuity with the coil circuit or possible injector issue or electrical signal to the injector. You could have a look at all of those electrical connections for corrosion or bad mechanical connection. I don't know how to test the HT side without specialist kit. Can you get the injectors out to see if they are squirting equally? Usual precautions. Jonathan
  6. Can you add a photo of the new and the old and the problem? Jonathan
  7. Is it affected by light pressure on the brake pedal? Can you reproduce it when it's up on stands? Jonathan
  8. Brass is also available. Jonathan
  9. Excellent, thanks. (I couldn't find those when I was trying to calculate the gains from electric drive.) Jonathan
  10. With the unavailability of A021Rs for road use there are going to be lots of part sets For Sale and Wanted. Any suggestions for lubricating the market? Jonathan
  11. With the unavailability of A021Rs for road use this going to be quite a common problem. I suggest shuffling them down using For Sale. Jonathan
  12. If you have: Radial tyres front and back AND The same size left and right at each endthen you're probably not breaching any regulations. See the MoT inspection guidance, but of course you can pass that and still be in breach of regulations. The effects on handling and braking, especially at the limit, are another matter. I think it's unwise to mix on the road unless you've explored them under all relevant conditions. Which is just about impossible. Jonathan
  13. A few comments in the archives. Jonathan
  14. Well done, and great spot, John. 12. slowly turn the rear brake disc, the voltage should now alternate between 12v and 0v as you turn. That's very helpful to know. Jonathan
  15. I don't understand why it's working with the old water temperature sender but not with the wiring to the new sender shorted to earth. Are you sure that the earth you are using is good? What happens with the wire at the old sensor shorted to the same earth? And I'd still try reversing the connections at the new switch. Have you got a multimeter? Jonathan
  16. http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/gauge-sender-units/smiths-oil-water-temperature-sender-for-classic-gauges I'd measure the resistance of the new sender at 0, 20 and 100 °C (with everything else disconnected). Jonathan
  17. I'd: Check oil level and pressure. Take a photograph. Clean it up. Then if it recurs as above.Jonathan
  18. You're trying to use the existing gauge with a switch between senders? What's the new sender, how many terminals does it have and can you post the instructions? If you reverse the connections at the switch between the two senders which one then works? Jonathan
  19. So now I am looking at using 1/2 unf female rose joints these are 15mm shorter but due to the length of the tie rods this still leaves 20mm of thread inside the the joint but these are not available with a 3/8 bore so I will need some 3/8 to 1/2 adaptors. I'm confused... what would be the ideal thread and length for the Rose joint? Jonathan
  20. I agree with your thinking. Let us know if everything returns to normal with a new relay. Or not. Jonathan
  21. Please send me a Private Message with your email address and the year. Jonathan
  22. I can't remember the details, but not all Sierra final drives are suitable. (Edited: crossed with elie's.) Have you decided what ratio you want? Jonathan
  23. Are you thinking of specifically whether it will fit the pods? Beyond that: There's a vast amount in the archives. Some LEDs don't offer enough load to make the flasher unit work. But it's an easy swap to one that will work with anything. I'd want to know that the off-axis brightness was adequate.All comparison photos welcome. Jonathan
  24. Checklist: Not dipping the wrong way. (I think the Genssis are up-down). Appropriate regulation mark (if you care). Sidelights (as vertew says)... but has anyone ever explored whether wiring the dipped beams as "front position lights" causes any regulatory problems? MOT documentation, including the 2016 changes for headlights.Can anyone explain what the following means in this context: "Daytime running lamps are not testable unless they replace the front position lamps. Where this is the case, they should dim when the position lamps are switched on and may extinguish when the headlamps are switched on." Jonathan
×
×
  • Create New...