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Jonathan Kay

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Everything posted by Jonathan Kay

  1. Thanks for checking. Yes, joules, please. But lower case. And how do you pronounce it... and how did he? ;-) Jonathan, standing in for the SACP
  2. ... but I have no main or full beam front lights. How about dipped beams? Main beam working on the flasher switch but not the main switch... sounds like a problem with the latter, either internal or the connection. Can you detect the relay acting when you close the flasher switch? Do you have a multimeter? Does the main/dip switch let you easily swap the dip and main outputs? If you'd like a wiring diagram please send me a Private Message with your email address. Jonathan PS: Where are you? I'm in Garsington.
  3. Mmmmm... data. Usual bizarre unit of stored energy* for car batteries is Ah. Typical small batteries in Sevens might be 20 odd Ah. 22 mA ≈ 0.5 Ah per day. So about 20 d to run a good battery down to half capacity. (Please could someone check that arithmetic?) Jonathan * Just to preempt the SACP... at the known voltage.
  4. With the white/red wire disconnected at the alternator what does the warning light show and what's the voltage across the battery: With ignition on but the engine not running Minimum voltage during cranking (ignore the warning light) At 3,000 rpm?Jonathan
  5. Hope it goes well. If it doesn't just work out of the box it would be interesting to measure the leakage current and what the panel supplies and what that control system does. Jonathan
  6. Anyone else... we need more to make it worth getting another batch? Jonathan
  7. Where are you? Have you found DVA's pages on the K: the engine, upgrades? I'm no mechanic and will have to pay someone to install / build it for me. Could we persuade you to do the installation yourself... I managed! Jonathan PS: I had my 1800 K rebuilt by Ratrace.
  8. Are these right: The alternator works in another car but not this one Pin 35 isn't relevant The exciting current for that alternator comes through the warning light circuit The warning light isn't working?Jonathan
  9. I think it disappears after you've looked at the thread... and it might do the same trick as "New and Updated" and assume that the author has already seen it... Jonathan
  10. I don't know what pin 35 does and would test and fix the warning light and its circuit and then see if the alternator wakes up. Jonathan
  11. What sort of alternator and how many terminals? Is the warning light incandescant or LED? Does it illuminate if you disconnect everything and rig a temporary feed and earth? Jonathan
  12. Forum User Guide: you can either upload the photos here or link to them on another server. Tell us if you get stuck. Jonathan
  13. What make is it? Most starters and alternators seem to be repairable locally, but if it's something unusual I'd check with the manufacturer. One advantage of repairing over replacing is ease of refitting... Jonathan PS: But I'd still check all of the relevant wiring and connections and the battery voltage as it tries to crank.
  14. Any thoughts on whether I need to re-wire the rear LED blocks at the same time to see if their wiring has an impact on the front LED wiring set up? Common faults on rear lights are: Bad earth Bad internal connection False return through another light circuit.Only the first of those is likely for you at the moment. And it wouldn't explain what you're seeing. But temporarily disconnecting bits may be very helpful in debugging. Jonathan PS: Ordered the multimeter yet? :-)
  15. I only have metric... If you're about to buy a bit to fit you might like to get one for the bolt running up to the cage at the same time... see post #2. Jonathan
  16. Agreed about their unreliability. You could also disconnect it and see if the crosstalk between the indicators persists. Jonathan
  17. When I work out how to post a picture I'll put one up. Can we help? Forum User Guide. Jonathan
  18. If you don't get a solution that works at home and you can't find a mobile expert there is a provision for driving vehicles without current MoT certificates to repairers. But I've never been able to find details of the precautions and restrictions, whether SORNed or not. A minimum might be: Booked into the repairers. Booked into the MoT inspection. Otherwise roadworthy.Jonathan
  19. First thoughts about possible causes of that crosstalk: The flasher unit is duff and it's happening within it. The wiring at the flasher unit or indicator switch is wrong. The wiring to the light units isn't correct.So I'd try another flasher unit, probably a different type. And if that didn't fix it I'd build the whole rig on the bench: lights, switches and flasher unit. ... Do you have a multimeter? And more gin? Jonathan
  20. But your Google version has a neat zoom facility. Jonathan
  21. :-) I don't understand how restricted breathing would prevent starting but allow that... Jonathan
  22. Can you also get a type number or some other ID for the batteries? 4. Don't know and not sure i can test easily as all the bike wiring and switching is buried in the bike. As a proxy for that what's the voltage across the connector when connected in bike mode rather than charging mode? ... I'm wondering if swapping the connectors allows the batteries to be charged in parallel and drive the motor in series... and something has been incorrectly modified... Jonathan
  23. Welcome back. The charger only has two wires/pins and is rated as 12V output. As it was supplied, one pin connects to the live of one battery and the neutral of the other battery. There's no other connection between the batteries when charging. Do you disconnect the connector block in order to charge the batteries? And how do you then connect the charger? Are you sure that's the right charger? Do you have a manual for the bike? If not what model is it? What voltage do you get at the switch that turns the motor on, with the charger disconnected?Jonathan
  24. I ike the idea, and I think this is the first I've seen with a brand name of which I've heard. Now... how about resettable circuit breakers with LEDS? Jonathan
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