Jonathan Kay

For now, I'll now move on to repair / replacement of the alternator. The presenting symptom isn't typical of an electrical problem (why at that engine speed, under load etc?). But the story told by the voltage observations needs a happy ending. So bench testing the alternator sounds like a good idea. I'm also still suspicious about the battery. That low voltage during cranking doesn't suggest a charging problem... but was it done soon after being on the conditioning charger or after you'd been out on the road? Jonathan

... ordinary unleaded... Can you remember the RON? (I don't know what's available in the Republic of Ireland.) Was any of that petrol still present when you tested it after changing the plugs? Jonathan

Thanks for the photos and experience. Could you add a photo from 45° to the side... preferably next to a 7 with the old ones? Does anyone have anything to add on relays that work and those that don't? Jonathan PS: ...and even put dialectic grease on the connectors to get a better connection. That won't help with the contacts, but it's really good for constructive arguments... ;-)

Suppose it's possible that the CTEK conditioner is masking an alternator issue - eg. the battery always gets charged up after a run, so I'm not noticing a longer-term discharge. Same thought here. Jonathan

Glad it worked. But was that an existing manufacturer's code or a note of their formulation? There's an enormous amount in the archives on trying to find paint codes and formulations. And the recommendations usually end up with going to a paint shop and asking them to match. Apart from the question of specification that of course also allows for fading. Jonathan

Mmmmmmm... data. Very interesting. I'd add the effect of headlights to that run. Does it sound as if it's cranking normally and start reliably? Even after a long run? Jonathan

Doh! Excellent. Jonathan

You will need to change your flasher relay to a more modern electronic type to allow you to have the correct flasher timing with any LED/Bulb combination. Doug: Some relays advertised as being appropriate for LED lamps still seem to be causing problems. How about selling or recommending ones that are known to work? Jonathan

Thin wheel spacer? That's what I wondered... and asked for the front-on shot... NB: Usual precautions. Jonathan

Maybe they would look better if refinished in black? Photoshop? Jonathan

It's hard to tell with the way they now provide the wiring diagrams. There seems to be both a GW and a GR going into the tachometer plug. Is there still only one indicator light? It's also complicated by there now being a buzzer... rather than 0 or 2! Jonathan

Battery voltages are as follows - resting = 12.8V; cranking = ~10V; idle = 12.9; 3,000 RPM = 13.8V. Battery is OEM Banner and is kept on a conditoner is 18 months old. Less than 10.5 V during cranking might indicate that the battery is pining for the fjords. There also seems to be a tendency for some ECUs and possibly some other electronics to drop out with low voltages. If the battery can be topped-up I'd check the levels. And repeat those voltage measurements every so often so that you can spot deterioration before it lets you down somewhere awkward. ... Replicating issue while stationary - I'll have a go when it gets dark, but a I expect it won't appear. The 'dim ign light' only happens under full acceleration and full load. Even backing off a little seems to make the light go out. The misfire / 'cough' similarly only happens at full accel / under load and in usually around the 4,000RPM area. Turning the headlights on might increase the load on the alternator enough to help discover if the voltage is dropping. .., Low RPM charging issue - not heard about that before, could you share a link? Previous discussions: 1, 2, 3. Jonathan

Thanks, John. You'll need a bit of extra wiring as the body of the horn doesn't connect to earth. And a multimeter? Jonathan

There are several reports of intermittent faults inside the hazard light switch causing problems with the indicators. And of them being temporarily being cured by switching it a few times. I don't think I've seen any affecting the brake lights, and that would be harder to explain. But it only takes a few seconds. so it could be cost-effective... Jonathan

Are there any specific references to the 420R or your engine in the Handbook? (I don't have a version with any.) Jonathan

What's the nominal current rating on the new compressor/ horns? You might need a relay. Jonathan PS: I'm still interested in a cheap lightweight "horn" if anyone can find one. I think that DJ.'s above were the best that came up in previous discussions...

... the ignition light glows / flickers dimly. Then goes out. under all other conditions. Can you replicate that while you're stationary? Check the alternator mounting and belt condition and tension. Measure the battery voltage at rest, minimum during cranking, at idle and at 3,000 rpm. Measure the voltage across the battery when this happens. Is your 2.3 the type that is known to have problems charging at low engine speeds that led to a discussion of pulley size?... ... the ignition light glows / flickers dimly. Does the flickering occur at the same time as the coughing? Jonathan

it is almost as though there is 12V there but insufficient current to light the rear lamps is that possible? Yes, that suggests a high resistance somewhere in the circuit. When there's no current the feed side stays at 12 V but when the current flows some of that potential difference is lost across the causative resistance and isn't available to the lamps. In general you can test for that in several ways: Temporary jumping: replacing bits of the circuit with good bits, and you've done some of that already. Measuring the voltage (to a good earth) at various points while the circuit is closed. Measuring the resistance directly. But if I understand the BC experts correctly 2 above is usually better than this.putting 12V on the switch and closing it (ie letting the plunger out; either switch) lights the rear lamps however, the feed to the switch has 12V on it but when I connect that to the switch and close it, the rear lamps DON'T light! The most obvious cause of that would be a high resistance in the feed upstream of the switch. That's not as common as in the switch or in a connector or in the earth from the lampholder. But it might be worth inspecting and wiggling the wiring and contacts at the fuse and the wiring to the switch. Then try Method 2 (ignition on and switch closed) starting with both sides of the switch and then those upstream bits as well as everywhere you can get a probe at the rear end. Jonathan

All other circuits and lamps working normally? Incandescent rather than LEDs? Any work done recently? Are you sure that the lamps are coming on fully in those tests? Do you have a wiring manual?Jonathan

Thanks, Andrew. I couldn't find that. TT99 from Polevolt, £22.95: http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/TT99-195.jpg There are cheaper things that look similar on eBay. Jonathan

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With the demise of the Powervamp PVR22 last year the replacement recommended by PV is the PC680, this is a superior battery and therefore a bit more expensive at £98. The Powervamp Clubsport NP costs £50. What do you see as the advantages of the PC680? Thanks Jonathan

Have a look at the wiring to the sender and any connectors: any visible damage? Then remove the wire at the sender: what does the gauge now do? (Same thought as JV's.) Jonathan

For most 7s I'd suggest: Consider the Great Lithium Question... ... and if you're not ready to jump fit a Powervamp Clubsport. Current model seems to be the Clubsport NP. NB You might need a different size box from what you currently have (and they sell one) and terminal adaptors.But mine lives on a conditioning charger. Is that a possibility for you, and if not how long would be long enough? And do you have a battery master switch and do you suspect high residual current when it's not being used? Jonathan

Would these be any help once it's slack? Jonathan