Jonathan Kay

Paul: have you got the appropriate Handbook and Assembly Guide already? Let me know if not. Jonathan

is there any advice on a) is there a "recommended" battery if Banners aren't very resilient The lead acid battery I recommend is the current Powervamp, but I've no reason to think that it lasts longer unused than the Banner. But a bigger (and heavier) battery will probably last longer... look for the rating in ampere hours (Ah). Then there are the options of fitting a battery master switch or keeping it on a conditioning charger. Which leaves the Great Lithium Question. Jonathan

b) can anybody let me have the details of the other 'contact'(?) immobiliser with a view to replacing the sterling one for something more user friendly? It might be worth individually contacting the Members who had problems in the thread linked in post #2. Jonathan

Discovered the battery was flat - again - they don't seem to stay charged for very long? Lives off a charger, and doesn't have a battery master switch? It seems to be variable, but Andrew has done some interesting calculations of what's going on with K engines. Jonathan

Is that the contactless type, and is it the same problem as BigCol's described here? What's the battery voltage with the ignition on? Jonathan

Not sure what you're asking... ? Have you got DVA's notes? There's one for sale. Jonathan

Previous experiences. Where are you? Jonathan PS: This sort of failure usually provokes a discussion of whether some set-ups don't have enough brackets in the right places to carry the weight, and how to solve that. Where are yours?

Make a bookmark in your browser with the URL https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=site:lotus7.club. When you to search for something in the archives click that bookmark so that you get the Google search page, then add search terms, date restrictions etc.Jonathan PS: Other search engines are available, and DuckDuckGo probably stores the least information about you.

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=site:lotus7.club+led+fuses Jonathan

the ones with leds when blown would save a lot of uncomfortable fuse viewing, any links? From the archives*: Illuminating fuses. Jonathan * Using external searching! :-)

about joining wires WHAT DO THE EXPERTS SAY ABOUT WIRING: CRIMP, SOLDER, THEN HEAT SHRINK, OR ?!?!? Don't know, but for non-experts I suggest: Never use ScotchLoks. Don't solder (pace Edd China). Try to find an existing termination and run to that, then you can use piggyback spades, double bullets etc rather than breaking into wires. For some 7 purposes you can extend this approach by making a widget that can be easily removed to turn it back to normal. It also means that you can do more of the work on the bench and less where it's dark and difficult. Crimping is easier if you use the right tool (and there are several available for loan), study how the deformable bit is meant to work, and practise a few times first. Heat shrink sleeving shrunk with a hot air gun. Tether it all neatly so that there is no load on the connections and they don't get disturbed when you're fettling nearby.Jonathan

There are blade fuses with little LEDs that light up when they blow. And probably resettable circuit breakers that do the same. Jonathan

Polevolt single fuse holders. Jonathan PS: I do not want to have any more connections that necessary: so a spade on each of the aforementioned wire would plug directly to a blade fuse. Not so good. Why is that more connections than a fuse in a new fuseholder?

I don't know how to tell if it's too hot. I've been careful to reconnect the +ve and -ve as before and checked the plugs and leads and distributor cap, all of which look ok. The new coil seems to work perfectly, the engine running as it should... That's good news. Next step is to test the internal resistance. You need the values specified for your particular coil, which might be here, but it would be nice to find something official. Jonathan

well, exchange the word views for experiences and I agree with that, I think. Amended, thanks. sikaflex, good timing, I was wondering if gluing the stays themselves requires the paint to be removed so one is not sticking wings to paint. I think that mine failed by the powder coat lifting off the metal, and concluded that that was one of the crucial factors: clean bare metal, clean GRP, the right Sikaflex product, and the sausage roll. Jonathan

all this casting doubt on every solution found to have worked seems to me to beg the question how a wiki will ever work. We need to see every way that works and solutions for any problems for each one - not "nay saying". One of the advantages of a multiauthor wiki will be that all of the different *experiences, views and opinions and who holds them can be in one place. There's no need for consensus if we do it right. The next reader will then easily be able to see all of them and make up her own mind. In comparison at the moment she has to know that there are differences and crack the searching, or wait for some but possibly not all of the proponents to respond all over again to each new thread on the same subject. If they can be bothered. Jonathan * Amended, see below.

... both fronts! :-( In the initial build I didn't remove the powder coating, used some sort of Sikaflex, and only made a sandwich. My next mistake was in a different category: not removing and correctly refixing the other front wing after the first one came off. Jonathan

...the received wisdom was NOT to glue things directly to the stays. In short the solution was and mine still continues to be since.. so long I forget and my wings are easily removable and haven't come off or loose: I lost two*, and one cracked the windscreen early in its bid for freedom. I then read everyone else's experiences, opinions and experiences. Apart from that advantage of easy removal I concluded that proper prior preparation prevented etc. And used a full sausage roll of Sikaflex 221 and no other fasteners. Anyone prepared to do the ultimate trial: one wing one way and the other the other? :-) Jonathan * Carelessness or coincidence: but either way I'm not Wilde about the original Bond...

I had plenty of time to create a partial sausage roll effect... Any reason for not going for the whole thing... it could completely change the critical failure mode... Jonathan

Thanks. Were you able to get voltage readings anywhere else that would give information about the connections that are under suspicion? Jonathan

interesting update to this at Schloss Dyke by Ian and Mick.. starting with confirmation of the reduced 9 volts to the pump.. Was that before the new MFRU? Jonathan

Thanks Jonathan

Welcome. Where are you? With a bit of luck there'll be some Members nearby who might let you try out some different combinations. There's a vast amount on lowered floors in the archives, but I don't think I've ever seen a discussion of raising the seat on them. It shouldn't be too hard. Jonathan

That's good to hear. I suspect this will be a much more popular choice now that's known. Jonathan

What identification can you find on them? Jonathan