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Jonathan Kay

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Everything posted by Jonathan Kay

  1. Thanks No, I haven't seen anything like that reported on any 7. Jonathan
  2. :-) Can you face doing the three voltage tests on both batteries: rest, minimum during cranking and 3.000 rpm? Jonathan
  3. ...the ARB sockets are on the centreline of the tube. Thanks Jonathan
  4. It seems on that car the voltage regulator remains active all the time as long as whatever input voltage is connected to the battery positive and chassis negative (not direct to battery negative)... What have you observed that suggests that? Or even one of those new lithium jump packs which I have seen but confess have no direct experience of. Yes, that's why I was interested in the likely cost. Jonathan
  5. Why boiling? To remove the white crud? I don't even use bicarbonate to "neutralise" battery acid, just lots and lots of (cold) water. And if there's crud then appropriate brushing. ... does epoxy resist acid? Probably. Jonathan
  6. Can you post a link to the information in the kit, or a picture of it? Have you got a wiring diagram for your 7, and, if not, would you like one? Do you have a multimeter? Jonathan
  7. I'm looking into fitting a Caterham battery master switch, and noticed on the parts website that it has 4 spade terminals coming out of it, so I'm wondering if when the battery is isolated the immobilizer is still on. I've had a quick look in the archives and found: The factory switch and wiring immobilises everything, probably because... ... it's aimed at compliance with racing regulations. Hazard warning lights might be an exception. A Guide. There's a safety issue with requires a resistor to protect the alternator.But if you're fitting and wiring one and don't need to meet those regulations then you can take the feed to the immobiliser from where you choose. Ditto accessory socket. Jonathan
  8. What's the rough cost of the emerging solution: panel + control system + bits? Jonathan
  9. The battery and its breather - plastic? Probably OK with that epoxy adhesive... can you test first? Jonathan
  10. Fascinating. Are these the right ones? They have different part numbers! Then looking at them, I realised that if you rotate the ball joint 180, the LH magically becomes a RH!! Is the receiver for the antiroll bar in the same plane as the arms? Jonathan
  11. Welcome. Where are you? The 2014 Assembly Guide says: 5.3) Upper wishbones The upper wishbones are handed and are assembled with the longer leg facing the front of the car. But I don't know if anything has changed or if 420s are different. What does your corresponding section say? Jonathan
  12. Which gearbox? There's a lot on this in the archives. You can replace it without removing anything: slackening off the engine and gearbox mounts can give a bit more clearance but I don't think it's essential. Circlip pliers needed to remove and refit the right-angled drive. There's a trick to angling the thingy to get the thread to tighten. I've seen it suggested that a better drive is available from Burton Power, possibly this, but no personal experience of it. Jonathan PS: IMHO it's a weird assembly and worth understanding before you start.
  13. Total support from me for Roger's proposal. Jonathan PS: Spent many hours on 10s and 13s and scripts to clean them.
  14. Please can you send me a Private Mail with the model, engine, year, dash and your email address. Jonathan
  15. Or should I just let him drive the Caterham and pray? "Yes" and "No" in that order. But add: Choose the right organisers. I think that MSE are excellent for beginners. Get the insurance that you think is appropriate. I go for specific trackday cover with named drivers (of course) and a big excess. Sit in with him and vice versa. Arrange some instruction... they've seen it all before.Getting my children, nieces, nephews, their partners, friends etc out on the track adds a lot to my enjoyment of the 7. But it's a lot less powerful than yours... Jonathan
  16. "Standard" wiring colours. Any progress? I'd start with: Choosing one of the affected circuits and tracing it in the diagram. Closing the relevant switch and turning the ignition on. Measuring the voltage to earth at all the points to which you can get access. Possibly starting with the terminals of the switch in the lock. Jonathan
  17. I've chickened out of two jobs on my 7: changing the cambelt and rebuilding the whole engine. I've read the advice and watched the video. I've got a big screwdriver but would be happy to buy the *locking tool. What would tip me to DIY, possibly: Someone to watch over me. A GTKY7 session where we all did it together with adult supervision.Am I alone? Jonathan * And then add it to the register of equipment for loan. PS: I've just had to get help from a bike mechanic and that rankles, but Clint was right.
  18. What are the materials to be joined? Loctite Hysol 9492 is an epoxy rated for 180C and with good chemical resistance. That looks good to me: Loctite 9492. (I was just about to look for two-part epoxy adhesives with higher temperature tolerance than ordinary Araldite.) The other family that might be worth looking at is high-temperature silicones, as used in exhausts etc nowadays. Jonathan
  19. Two questions about yours, please, Steve: Any suggestions that the charging system is otherwise marginal? Or that the system voltage is dropping when the misfire occurs (as with vertew's voltage measurements or flickering warning light)?Thanks Jonathan
  20. Thanks, Geoff: that was going to be interesting with either answer! Jonathan
  21. Are you going to DIY? Jonathan
  22. (Crossed with Roadsport06's) James Whiting's schedule recommends changing K cam belts at "48,000 miles or sooner if preferred". When he last did mine I asked about low mileage 7s and he suggested 5 y maximum. Do you know old yours is? Jonathan
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