Jonathan Kay
-
Posts
40,929 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
16
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Blatmaps
Speed Championship Results
News
Website Help
Downloads
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by Jonathan Kay
-
... how to get the bush out and if there is a straightforward method I am missing? The textbook method is to use a press. But that probably means removing the suspension member and taking it to one. The clever DIY method is to use threaded studding with washers and nuts to press the old bush out from the member and the new one in. But apparently some of the holes aren't true and the forces can be surprisingly high... Jonathan
-
Have you already got an Assembly Guide with the torque figures, when to tighten etc? Let me know if not. There are some suggestions in the archives that you might need a press rather than merely using threaded studding...Jonathan
-
Also in the box is a used alternator so any suggestions to check if it works or not without access to voltmeters or other test kits? You could: Fit it fully and see if the ignition warning light behaves normally, or Take it into into a local repair shop and ask them to test it.Jonathan PS: Recommended multimeter... second most cost-effective accessory for 7s.
-
I think this implies that "Traction Control" only works on the driven wheels but "Electronic Stability Control" on all four, but it isn't conclusive. Also has the meaning of the warning lights. Shirley
-
Thanks Jonathan
-
Sorry for bringing up this old thread but for some reason, none of the forum links seem to work for me! It isn't you: links were lost in the transition of the web site. Jonathan
-
Thanks. Does the warning light typically light up when that happens, or is it now "normal"? Jonathan
-
Although not specific to your car, they don't change much from model to model. But beware fuse layouts... Jonathan PS: The hold-up in getting more Guides, Handbooks etc on the site is entirely at my end. Because I've failed to create a useful index by model, year etc.
-
Have you written it off? They seem to be surprisingly repairable. How about: Deep cleaning Posting some photos of the inside and outside Telling us where you are, to see if anyone can recommend a local expert?Jonathan PS: DVA's thoughts on filling rather than welding.
-
How interesting. I'd check whether: The discs are identical. The pads are identical. The retardation on test rollers is very similar (even though you've already thought about that on the road). The wheels are running freely both hot and cold. There's anything from the ABS or similar on the diagnostic analyser. It's mentioned in any Vauxhall or Opel forum.I would rather think it would be the stability control that caused this. More, please, elie... Jonathan
-
If it would be a fuse then one of the rear lights won't work I always forget about that, and it's a great pointer if it's present. But on some 7s the fuse for the instruments is separate, eg: Jonathan
-
What's the Ford model number for the engine...then look here. Jonathan
-
If you'd like the Caterham diagrams please send me a Private Mail with your email address. It's also useful to have the "standard" British colours, but there aren't any guarantees! Jonathan
-
Have you got a wiring diagram and fuse layout? Let me know if you'd like the relevant Assembly Guide and Handbook. Check the fuse. If that's OK then find and check the earth from the instruments.Jonathan
-
I don't have the nerve to do things to the engine so what Jim says goes. For the build I bought a 1/2" Williams 20 to 140 Nm. And borrowed a big one for the rear hub nuts: there are now several of those in the register of equipment for loan. (Others recommend a lever and known weight... ) NB Club discount at Halfords. Jonathan PS: To my disgust I'm now supposed to use a torque wrench on various bits of bikes. So I bought a little 1/4" beauty from Lifeline which covers 2 to 24 Nm. It looks identical to this.
-
Any idea of what they might be called? The spherical joints? There's a fair bit on this option in the archives but it's scattered across a lot of threads. Main points seem to be: A few 7s get a lot of wear. There's some doubt that spherical bearings are appropriate to the loads. Redline offered an A-frame with Rose joints for £120 in 2015. That's where I'd start if this was of interest.Jonathan
-
From the archives, the second thread down is from 2016. Jonathan
-
Touring Tips... Jonathan
-
I find the names and specifications very hard to follow. But if the engine is a "Sigma 140" it's 140 bhp at 6,800 rpm and 125 lb ft at 4,100 rpm according to this 2014 Handbook. Jonathan PS: The "Dyno-Plot" collection of measured power curves is "down for maintenance"...
-
Some Caterham documentation does mention 0W-40 for "Road usage" and 5W-50 for "Performance/ Track driving". In your position I'd stick with what I'm used to. Jonathan PS: Have you already decided what to check before you leave and what tools and bits to take?
-
K engine with typical water-based inhibitor-containing coolant? Possibly 48,000 miles or 3y whichever comes first... Jonathan
-
Toyo Proxes T1-R? Jonathan
-
Using Safari on iOS it's probably something like: "View full size" Select and either "Copy" or "Save Image" Use that where you want it.Jonathan
-
Previous discussion of H4 LEDs, but beware: Legality for use on public roads. Possible absence of side lights. Knowing that what you are buying is the same as what someone else recommended.Jonathan
-
Where's that last thread about this? It has notes about all the bits not in the manual .. like where the hose goes through a rubber grommet hidden under the boot floor support.. etc This one from July or previous? Jonathan
