Jonathan Kay
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Everything posted by Jonathan Kay
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Are you going to design/ specify it or are you looking for someone who can do that as well as make it? One recommendation in the archives for Autosparks. Might be worth talking to Redline. Jonathan
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Zetec 1998 - 2008 ~250 Ford Zetec Built for the United States market Jonathan
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Thanks. Yes, I was wondering if the 15A(20A) fuse ratings were for traditional pump technology and 1.6A draw/ 3 to 5A fuse ratings were for solid state. Jonathan
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Is this something to do with the shift to solid state pumps? Jonathan
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-----Original Message----- From: Jonathan Kay [mailto:jonathankay@mac.com] Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2017 7:20 AM To: p.puleo@facet-purolator.com Cc: Jonathan Kay <jonathankay@mac.com> Subject: Cube Fuel-Pumps | Motor Components, LLC | Facet Purolator http://www.facet-purolator.com/cube-fuel-pumps.php Please could you tell me the recommended fuse rating for a 40105 in a road car? Thank you Dr Jonathan Kay ... Hi Jonathan Thank you for your email. A 3 to 5 amp fuse is what we recommend. Paul Puleo Motor Components, LLC National Sales Manager www.facet-purolator.com
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Are these for the mounting at the bottom of the dash just below the steering wheel spline? Top and bottom. Easy to change? Sometimes but not always. There's a recommended sequence and some tricks in the Assembly Guide. Jonathan
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That's what I assume! Agree about Scotchloks and I choose not to solder on cars, which should leave these fitting in nicely when you don't want a whole new fusebox and there isn't anything more convenient. Jonathan
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Thanks. Agree about the torque multiplication by the gearbox. But other factors include: Lower power needed to move the car through the air leaving more to accelerate the car... need to be careful to compare like with like... Engine torque that varies with engine speed... Positions in the envelope where wheels slip before clutches and vice versa...Jonathan
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Try pulling away in 5th gear. It's too much of a load for the engine. The torque multiplication of the gearbox reduces that load on both the clutch and the engine. That's true at all speeds. Thanks. I'm still trying to get my mind round this. Jonathan
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If it's there it should be fed from a fuse in the main fuse block. It all depends on whether they used a universal loom. You can find the wiring diagram for '95 chassis cars, what may not be the same as yours but should give you a clue here. That's clever. If the fuse layouts are accurate they'd changed by 1998 and were the same for Ford, Vauxhall and Rover. If the wp wire isn't there, take a fused supply from the ignition wiring. If there isn't anything more convenient you could use a piggyback fuseholder. Use a 15A fuse as the original 10A would blow at very inconvenient moments. Why is the only specified maximum current I could find for that Facet pump so much lower than for whatever Caterham fitted? Thanks Jonathan
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Looks as if that's 1A maximum current. Do you want an inertia switch? (I can't see or think of an especially suitable existing point... but I don't yet understand their drawing of the reversing light circuit.) Jonathan
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What's the current fuel pump? And what's the specified current for the new one? Jonathan
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Were you using the built-in search tool or something like Google? I find the latter much more effective: try the second link in my signature. Jonathan
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(Edited: Crossed with Tazio's.) Extending Delbert's approach a bit I'd consider: Talking to a suspension expert about options for components, including the cost axis. There are a lot of recent reports of big improvements from this. Setting the geometry to some known starting position, such as the one in the Assembly Guide. Setting the corner weights. Getting it tested by an expert. But I don't know the best way of doing that and I don't fancy other drivers testing handling limits when I'm nearby on public roads. How do people do this in practice... track days, test days... ?Jonathan
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I understand that wider means more grip, but is that extra grip important just in fast road use? It's often asserted around here that there's a power threshold for 7s above which 6"/7" or 6"/8" works out better than 6"/6". IIRC 140 bhp is below it. Jonathan PS: I'm deliberately avoiding the general question, but if anyone insists...
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If something has changed is it the nozzle on the pump? Jonathan
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Thanks to revilla's detective work we now know that there's considerable variation in drain at rest. But with a 7 with a Powervamp battery that lives in a garage with mains power I connect mine to a CTEK MXS 5.0 charger in AGM mode through the "cigar lighter" socket in front of the passenger with the charger screwed to the ceiling so that the wire drops straight down. I find that much more convenient than removing the bonnet and a battery clamp. Jonathan
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I was just about to ask the first two key questions: how important is wet grip, and where do you want to drive it. Which leaves: Does wider mean better? How much power do you have? Will profile height affect the speedometer reading dramatically? You can get that from those calculators. But which sort of speedometer do you have? If it's electronic it's very easy to recalibrate. Jonathan PS: For my vanilla 1800 K I chose identical wheels so that I can carry a spare. And because caring about the looks is way down my priorities.
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I don't think there's anything better than CTEKs, but I've also had good experiences with Optimates and Accumates. Most (? all) Powervamp batteries in 7s aren't "gel" type they're "AGM". Might be good to get something that would charge a regular car battery as well, just in case. Yes, what's the biggest battery you'd like it to work on? But lack of use is starting to cause problems. You can predict failure before it happens by checking the minimum voltage during cranking. Jonathan
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Today with the sun shinning there was no enough power to engage the starter motor. You can assess the state of the battery before it lets you down. Measure the voltage at: Rest Minimum during cranking, or trying to, and At 3,000 rpm.After some jigging about (another story) it started first time. What was the problem? Jonathan PS: I wouldn't replace a battery in a 7 with anything that needed topping up (see post #3) and wasn't sealed.
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What SM25T says. The throttle pedal can also be bent with a suitable lever. Do you have an appropriate Assembly Guide: let me know if you'd like one. Jonathan
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As far as gears are concerned slip will be worse in higher gears because the load on it is increased. I've seen that said, but I don't understand why it should be the case. More, please... Jonathan
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Glad you've got an answer. But I wonder if you have the right version of the Assembly Guide... does it include a Section 5 "Front Suspension Classic"? In 5.3 that should describe the half bushes and the rearwards persuasion and the clearance on the skin... Jonathan
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Have you considered two other general solutions: The panoramic assembly that goes across the top of the screen? http://www.mirrorsforsevens.com/images/specs1_picture1.jpg Video camera(s) to a smart 'phone or action camera or similar? (With the bonus of reduced drag!)Jonathan
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Have you found John Vine's investigations into CRB load? The problem I am experiencing is the clutch is slipping in the higher gears (particularly in 4th & 5th) when doing track days (it seems fine when driven on the road). I don't know of any problems on transmissions as simple as ours where the gear would affect clutch slip other than through the relation to torque and speed. Can you persuade it to slip with full power uphill in the other gears? Those AP links: Ø190mm - CP2257 Family CP3748 Family - Curly Spring.Jonathan PS: Despite AP Racing's description torque is measured in lb ft (or a modern unit) rather than lb/ft.
