Jonathan Kay

... how do you adjust the brake and accelerator peddles? They're very adjustable but for some of us it's necessary to bend the throttle pedal and for all of us there's a trick that preserves the clutch cable. The initial moves are in the Assembly Guide: have you got a copy already? If not please send me a Private Mail with your email address. Jonathan

Since you haven't had a reply all day... I don't know enough about the different types of ECU to help. But searching the archives (!) came up with this thread and there are several other threads linked from there that might help. Or at least help you find the experts who can. Good luck Jonathan PS: You posted twice. I suggest you delete the other thread or change the Subject so that all the responses come to this one.

May do a few tests in the name of science and learning.....could do a little on the sides under the lip so not too noticeable Small area of nail polisher remover Small area of white spriit Small area of clay That's the way to do it! How *blinded could you set up that trial? Jonathan * Traditional methanol jokes are available at this point.

TomB: Yes. Risks as you identify. I wouldn't use them unless essential. Brake cleaner is made of chlorinated solvents... As above: they vary and some contain ketones. And aliphatics. And methyl acetate... I tend to start with isopropyl then move up the scale with acetone as a last resort. Which is why that's a smart approach. Jonathan PS: Ever wondered what "penetrating fluid" is made of? I'd love to see a controlled trial comparing a leading branded product, petrol and Coca-Cola...

Not particularly worried about toxicity of acetone for low volume use with a few sensible precautions. Don't know about environmental effects. But it can dissolve or wreck the finish of plastics and similar, and if it isn't needed I'd recommend aliphatics and alcohols which are much less likely to do that. Jonathan PS: Different commercial brake and clutch cleaners have very different compositions.

...my question was more around whether thinners, nail poilish remover etc would damage the bare aluminium. Probably not "damage" but may affect the *appearance. Usual precautions and preliminary test piece. Jonathan * Because of the weird surface chemistry of aluminium. PS: Nothing to add to the wisdom above concerning solvents.

Thanks for the photo, Frosty. It's almost as if a picture were worth a *thousand words. It's very hard to know where to jump. The information is scattered across multiple threads, and there are few if any direct comparisons between alternatives. At the moment I think I'd go with Ezzer's combination. Jonathan * Or should that be ten thousand? ;-)

Modern retail nail varnish remover or the real stuff with acetone as the solvent? Jonathan PS: I've often tried dissuade to Members from using clutch or brake cleaner (which typically contain acetone) when it isn't needed.

A few more expressions of interest and we'll get to 20 and I'll ask the factory... Jonathan

Current Lidl special offer £39.99. Jonathan

I'm also wondering how effective the CC perspex wind-deflectors are. There are several reports of them working a lot better after being bent (with the aid of a hot air gun). I sold mine. Well, I say "sold" but as the Royal Mail lost them I had to return the money! The best thing about the half hood is those changeable days when the weather gear gets really wet, and the sun then comes out. Wrestling with acres of wet vinyl and trying to stow it isn't much fun, but the alternative of being steamed alive isn't great either. It was this that really made me give up carrying the full hood. Agreed. The lack of spare wheel changes the airflow around the rear of the car and causes a greater draft coming into the cockpit from behind, in a downpour this carries water with it. Interesting. I didn't know that and will do the experiment. Jonathan

Also are half-hoods that good/effective and a real alternative to the full hood? I'm very happy with mine. The full hood hasn't been fitted since I was given a half-hood. (My 7 lives in a garage and I don't have a shower cap... ) Jonathan

How do I delete that, please? Thanks Jonathan

Ghoti

Ghoti

Yes, good niches for initial testing. But I'd check the compatibility of the boosters with the car's charging system first. Jonathan PS: From what I can tell not many of us have gel batteries... but there are lots of AGM type...

Yes, but... Traditional "dumb" trickle chargers can overcharge because they're... dumb. So never leave them on all the time. What many of us use are "smart" conditioning chargers (such as CTEKs) that won't overcharge and can recover abused batteries. They can be left on all the time. Jonathan

That's a very interesting question. And while I've been playing hokey cokey with my battery for the past month I've been thinking about it: The performance of those boosters is very impressive. But some have been very unreliable. And I have no idea how they would perform across the entire range of operation required of a car battery in addition to simply starting an engine (or charging a 'phone!). The few 7 owners that have fitted "normal" lithium batteries seem pretty happy, and winter doesn't seem to have been a problem. But they're very expensive compared to lead batteries (including the light lead AGM batteries that many of us use and I currently recommend). And I don't know how much clever circuitry they contain, see 3. It's hard to get reliable data on different types because of the now-known between-7 variation in drain at rest and because some of us use isolator switches and some don't. And because some 7s sit unused for long times. And some live on conditioning chargers and some don't. And there's understandable reluctance to try something new because of the sheer hassle of unreliable starting.There's a lot of relevant information on cost, mass, nominal energy storage and nominal starting current in the archives but it's *scattered across multiple threads. I'd put my money on big name "normal" lithium batteries coming down in price quite soon and rapid uptake following. But we could review the nominal data on a lithium battery booster with proven reliability and speculate... and it would be possible to fit one while keeping the "nornal" battery onboard... Jonathan * All I want for Xmas is a multi-author technical wiki...

Thanks Jonathan

1.1 kg for €647 (£568). IIRC my current Powervamp ClubSport NP has a mass of 6.5 kg and cost £50. That makes it £96/ kg saved. Jonathan

And for Stack instruments there's 213 Performance, with Club discount! Jonathan

IIRC there's a new company with some good experiences... hang on a minute. Found it: 213 Performance, with Club discount! Jonathan

Did anyone find a solution for CSRs? Thanks Jonathan

Welcome. I don't think I've seen that discussed and can't find anything in the archives. With a bit of luck someone with experience will appear. But if they don't how about talking to Burton Power? They have a range of bits that should help, and if you tell them the type of oil filter they should be able to say what will fit. They might even have advice beyond that. Jonathan

... and whether you want the tail of the lap strap to pull away from or towards the buckle. Jonathan