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Jonathan Kay

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Everything posted by Jonathan Kay

  1. Now we're getting close to enough to plan a batch. Keep them coming. :-) Jonathan
  2. The NGK link you give above is interesting, but leaves out the idea of measuring length of cables and using division to compare the resistance of each lead to (hopefully) give a similar figure for all four, thus detecting a problem. It depends on how you look at it: the oomph available to the plug only depends on the absolute resistance (at the right current and waveform). Jonathan
  3. I may well be wrong: NGK suggest using a multimeter. Jonathan
  4. A multimeter can measure resistance. A simple calculation of that figure divided by length means you can at least work out if ones duff compared to the others. Good point. But I don't think that you can show that a lead is good by testing with an ordinary multimeter... the current is too low. Jonathan
  5. Not cranking too fast but I'd have said enough to spark What's the battery voltage at rest and during cranking? (Some 7s seem to be very susceptible to dropping the voltage too low for some part of the electronics.) After the oil change I pulled the plug leads and coil wire from the distributor to crank fresh oil through engine before starting it properly Recheck the connections and that the right lead goes to the right plug. connected the shift lights at the rev counter If it's reasonably easy disconnect and see if it makes any difference. Jonathan Edited: Crossed with Piers', and checking earths is always a good idea.
  6. What's the coil and plug arrangement? Cranking at a good speed? Do you have a multimeter? Was anything touched on the HT end during the work? Where did you connect the engine speed signal to the shift lights? Jonathan
  7. Five items or fewer in this aisle? :-) Jonathan ... or “less”!
  8. But the picture Bob paints of non-Club track days doesn't chime with my own experience: the vast majority of UK track day operators run a tight ship, with a strong emphasis on safety and good conduct. I can't give an overview but it is certainly possible to have safe well-managed days with other organisers. It might be hard to find out in advance on your own but there's enough experience here to help sort it out. Jonathan
  9. I don't think there's a way of testing them without dedicated kit. Other than swapping them in and out with good ones. Jonathan
  10. If you're allowed more than 5 there's a good discussion in Touring Tips. And there's a whole collection of threads on the advantages and disadvantages of spare wheels and tyre repair stuff. ... with my 10 yr old in the car. That will be two smart 'phones and charging cables, then. :-) Jonathan
  11. Thanks. I use the factory scissors jack. It's origin has been identified (but I've forgotten it) and they appear on eBay. Somewhere in the archives there are views on a suitable aluminium jack. But what's the context... ? Jonathan
  12. The address is good: Bluetooth Headset Assembly Guide. Jonathan
  13. Jack Wheel nut wrench Jump leads Head torch ​Multitool (mine's a Victorinox Spirit) Credit card Smart 'phone + charging lead That's 7.5 but the last 3.5 would be in my bag whether I was in the 7 or not, so it's really only 4. :-) Jonathan PS: Does everyone know how to fix a jack under the bonnet? PPS: Tool tubes and rolls still available in the next round of the Bulk Buy... and we need a few more requests if there is to be another round.
  14. A friendly club member or two might help fit the bar for a bacon butty and a few rounds of tea if you asked for help... I was wondering about this. Would offer of a space and tools and sustenance help anyone make the change? I'll offer those in South Oxfordshire. Jonathan
  15. Is it a one-off problem or are they supplying them in different versions? Or is it something to do with that spacer? Thanks Jonathan
  16. Thanks for the photos, Frosty. Any available from subsequent contributors? Jonathan
  17. How about the instrument lights (and all of the other electrical functions: lights, horn, engine fan, heater fan etc)? The rev counter is ok. IT's quite jumpy, not as smooth as a production car, but does work. Jumpy when the engine speed is constant, or only when it changes? With more than one instrument not working properly I'd check: That the system voltage is constant and appropriate, but that will have to wait for the multimeter. That there isn't a bad contact in the feed: check the fuse and its fit in the fuseholder. That the instrument earth is good: find it, see if it's loose, disconnect, inspect and reconnect.After that it's on to tracing each suspicious circuit. And the engine oil level again. Jonathan
  18. Recommended multimeter: Draper 60792. and treat yourself to a pair of matching leads with croc clips. Jonathan
  19. What Jim says, and what does the rev counter do? I'd check all the other electrical functions... ... and that the layout of fuses and relays matches what's in the Assembly Guide or Handbook.Jonathan
  20. Isn't it fun? Clearly something is up with the wiring as none of the guages moved. The oil pressure never increased above about 0.5 bar, the tempoerature (Which was showing 80 degrees before I even turned it over) never moved from 80, the fuel tank never even got about an inch below empty .... Oh, and yeah the car doesn't idle either, needed to keep foot on the gas to keep her running ... all points sent off to Derek, as I'm sure I must have missed something very simple. Do you want suggestions now, or to wait till you hear back? Do you have a multimeter? :-) Jonathan
  21. In addition to the mechanical fit I'd look in advance at the electrical connections. The terminal layouts and requirements for different models are on the Brise site and in the archives: there might be some changes needed on the warning light and the exciting feed. All soluble but a nuisance if you don't spot it in advance. What was the old starter and/or what wires are dangling nearby? And do you have a multimeter? :-) Jonathan
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