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Jonathan Kay

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Everything posted by Jonathan Kay

  1. What to do? What John says. But It isn't obvious how that relates to the effect of wiggling the loom. Failures of individual wires whether exposed or within looms is pretty rare compared to problems with connections. So, possibly: Identify the circuits. Cycle the hazard wiring light switch a few times and see if that has any effect. Put the meter on the feed to the switch at the switch and see if you can reproduce the drop out by focussed wiggling, including that connection and the ones at the hazard warning light switch. If that doesn't reveal anything make a jump wire and bypass the suspect and see if that provides a total cure.Jonathan
  2. Please send me a Private Mail with your email address. Do you have a multimeter? Jonathan
  3. I'm not sure what's happening here... I don't know what you mean by a "standard" bar. If you can show us a picture I think it's likely that someone who has one will go and measure it for you. Jonathan PS: Redline can also be contacted in other ways.
  4. The best option may be just to disconnect the battery for the winter, I just need to ask Porsche if there are any downsides to this (in terms of saved settings which will be lost). And ask that big Porsche forum? Jonathan
  5. Why wouldn't the battery pack work? Thanks Jonathan
  6. If you leave a car on idle until it is properly hot, e.g. for 20mins, I still don't see the potential for damage, but that seems to be the consensus.... It was dogma when I was young that short run-ups were worse than nothing... wear on the cold engine and "acid from combustion". But I have no evidence that either was ever true, and you're proposing getting though the first phase anayway. Jonathan
  7. Three threads with details of the work: 1, 2, 3. And the full search. (I'd keep the box and optimise the ratios, including the final drive.) Jonathan
  8. Which style... might be easiest to link to the one you want in the Caterham parts website. Jonathan PS: There's a duplicate post. You can't delete that but you can change the contents and Subject so that all the responses come here.
  9. What I'd really like is a 'conventional' version of that - i.e. one that shows each wire - I'm also not convinced it's complete - e.g. I have a BN wire which I think might be for oil temperature but I can't see it on the engine harness diagram. I don't think there are any conventional diagrams with wires going point to point for recent harnesses... except for Andrew's beautifully annotated versions. So you have to spot the numerical identifiers. Caterham do tend to stick to "standard" wiring colours so that can help, but I think that you're past that stage on this problem. Jonathan
  10. I’ve yet to fully document this but the wire into the tachometer is a normal voltage feed, but the output from the tacho to the gauge is a pulse (I’ve had an oscilloscope on it) so you’ll need to use the signal going into the tacho rather than the output. Is this the scheme known as "EFI harness"? Thanks Jonathan
  11. I try to collect all the 7 wiring diagrams known to man... what would you like? Jonathan
  12. Have you got "Version 02.2015.b" for "270, 360 and 420 plus Academy"? Jonathan
  13. Thanks for the update. Where did you disconnect the sensor, and could there be an intermittent fault in that circuit in a more central location? What does the Handbook say that the blown fuse supplies? Jonathan
  14. You can't, but you can change the content and Subject to point to the right place. Jonathan
  15. Well done. It would be nice to have more about the Club, and why and how to join under About. How about copying this section as a starter? Jonathan
  16. ... I've never worked out how to successfully post a pic on this forum! New simplified workflow. Jonathan
  17. Are you going to fit better lights? Jonathan
  18. The solar panels or the portable battery pack? I haven't found the ideal integrated pack, but there are some that offer 0.85 A 240V AC, which is more than required by my CTEK charger (0.65 V). That's inelegant, but it might work for topping up and avoiding deep discharge... if the parasitic drain and losses through inefficiency are less than the net power delivered by lugging the charged pack in one direction and the discharged pack in the other. Jonathan
  19. Previous discussions, despite the search terms I think that the other options are in there somewhere. Jonathan
  20. As I mentioned in post #9 - this is not always the case...... And in #2. But the question I asked on a previous occasion was whether the following was true: If you do the rotation test properly (see #3) and the other wheel rotates the same way then there's an LSD, but if it rotates the opposite way then it could be either. Jonathan
  21. If you don't get an answer on the source... Honest John lists some specialists to try after Timpsons. IIRC he has specifically mentioned thecarkeypeople in the past. Jonathan
  22. Surely that wouldn't recharge a battery, only jump start sn engine which is then recharged by the alternator? Even if you have a nearly flat battery connected to a leisure battery, you would only partially recharge? The concept was to find one that could act as a smart "conditioning" charger to top up and prevent deep discharge of the car's battery. And carry the pack back to a mains point when necessary to recharge it. Has anyone tried this? Shirley
  23. There's a long discussion of that somewhere: I'll have a look. IIRC it boiled down to solar power or intermittent connection to a portable battery, and the latter would now probably best be one of those clever jump start packs containing a lithium battery. Jonathan
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